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Discussion Starter #1
Im putting the 64.5 C4 that is mated to the D-code that I bought in my 67.

I have the C4 that came out of my 67 that was attached to the 200.

I want to swap the valve bodies so I have the normal P-R-N-D-2-1 shift pattern.

I watched a couple videos and the task does not look to difficult.

Any advice? Im doing this on my back, looking up at the transmission.

Im also thinking about a SD deep pan. Down here in the South, heat kills. Im going to run a 24" 2 core radiator with a shroud and a 6 blade fan. I dont know if the larger radiator has a larger capacity for the transmission cooler or not. I dont want to run an aux tranny cooler. More fittings = more possible leak points.

The only thing I dont like about the SD pan is that there isnt a drain plug. I like to change my fluid every 2 years or every 30,000 miles.

The only deep steel pans I see with a drain plug are off brands that are chrome. I dont want to pony up the cash for an aluminum pan, too many other bits and pieces that I still need to buy to get the car on the road.

Is the extra quart or so of fluid going to make a difference on a street car or is it just an unnecessary expense?
 

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Extra capacity = more cooling capacity.
Personally I'd rather route the cooling away from radiator to an external cooler so as not to have heat transfer.

With regard to the valve body swap, the 65 trans is cruise o matic. IIRC the 67 is regular C4, and I also recall the cases being the same, also the gearing the same.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Actually I have. What concerns me is that if tranny fluid leaks on whatever you use to bond it to the pan, it might come off.

I also wonder why someone doesnt make tranny lines with a heatsink built into the line. Ive seen some heatsinks made for lines, but only in larger sizes.
761617

I thought about running my heater hoses through a heatsink in the summer.
 
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Im putting the 64.5 C4 that is mated to the D-code that I bought in my 67.

I have the C4 that came out of my 67 that was attached to the 200.

I want to swap the valve bodies so I have the normal P-R-N-D-2-1 shift pattern.

I watched a couple videos and the task does not look to difficult.

Any advice? Im doing this on my back, looking up at the transmission.

Im also thinking about a SD deep pan. Down here in the South, heat kills. Im going to run a 24" 2 core radiator with a shroud and a 6 blade fan. I dont know if the larger radiator has a larger capacity for the transmission cooler or not. I dont want to run an aux tranny cooler. More fittings = more possible leak points.

The only thing I dont like about the SD pan is that there isnt a drain plug. I like to change my fluid every 2 years or every 30,000 miles.

The only deep steel pans I see with a drain plug are off brands that are chrome. I dont want to pony up the cash for an aluminum pan, too many other bits and pieces that I still need to buy to get the car on the road.

Is the extra quart or so of fluid going to make a difference on a street car or is it just an unnecessary expense?
I daily drive my 69 with C4, factory pan and factory radiator (large, AC car radiator) and do not have any issues with my transmission (besides seal leaks).
 

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No problems with the C4 with stock pan and a stock-ish 3 row radiator on my driven 66, which has been a Georgia / Alabama car since day one, 100-degree days and all.
 

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Easy swap on the valve bodies...done it already, and it was a piece of cake. I would suggest adding the trans-go shift kit for the early trans while you have the valve body in your hands. Its pretty easy, and you can clean it up in the process. Servo upgrade to an ebay H servo and cover for about 40 bucks or so...highly recommend, as your 200 c4 probably has a "z" or a "b" servo I believe. They are the smallest ones. With these changes, you will love your C4. I promise. I'm not running a special convertor, just a stock remanufactured one with factory stall. It can chirp the tires @ 2nd gear change w/o any issue. It will bite when needed, but still cruise normally. Just my .02. I used the Bad shoe vids for both the early and late model trans. Ken even shows you the "poor man's" shift kit in the video, which is a mod that doesn't cost, and is easy to do....

note: I've run the A servo, with shift kit, and it is pretty close to the H in performance. So If you have that, it would be fine. Those are a dime a dozen...let me know if you need one of those, I probably have a few laying around.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
My 200 servo is a Z. I could use a A servo for that tranny. Im planning on rebuilding it for my 65.

I dont know what the 64.5 289 servo is. Its a C40P-7D027-A, POW H 289 4G1C 2

I think I read that 64 only there was no letter stamped on the servo.

I dont know whats in my 65 either. I know it has the later valve body. The PO told me it had a 2.80 trac lok. I didnt know there was such a thing as a 2.80 trac loc.

With the 2100, I had to baby it off the line, after I put the Summit 500 4V on, from a dead stop in drive, it will chirp the tires 1-2 and 2-D.
 

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I don't think you need to worry TOO much about cooling capacity with a stock converter and not towing anything. Unless you like to do loooooooong 1200RPM brakes stands.

I have the PA pan. It is not cheap but it is deep and has fins for cooling, AND it has a drain plug. It also sealed really well with a rubber gasket. I understand that the steel pans and cork gasket can be problematic for some people. If you did want to add a little bit of cooling capacity and have a really nice pan, this is the way to go in my opinion. The price may not be right but the effort is low.

As far as the valve body, I took mine off and put it back on when I change my TCI transmission to a stock shifter arm. At the time one thing I remember reading over and over was not to tighten the bolts too tight. Also, take note of the little moving parts and how they mesh together with the shifter arm and vacuum modulator.

I think I have a TCI servo somewhere, I replaced it with the PA servo, pretty much I think because I just like to spend money sometimes. Let me know if you're interested in it. It would be an upgrade over any of the OEM servos.
 
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