Vintage Mustang Forums banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part JUNE's Ride of the Month Challenge!
  • May's Ride of the Month contest ended with a tie! Go to this thread to vote on the winner! VOTE HERE
1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,356 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I a now at the point to decide which way to go.

I like hydraulic clutch but I since people are telling me that they have problem with the brackets that I am not sure if I should still get it.

I am also wondering what a good cable clutch setup??

Thanks,
David
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,775 Posts
When I'm ready to address that issue with Shag it will be hydraulic clutch or standard clutch. I hate the looks of cable clutches.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,134 Posts
Standard mechanical is easy to do and maintain. That's what I have and it works well...very smooth and a lot less maintenance than either of the other options you mentioned, though some people like them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,926 Posts
I absolutely dispise cable linkage as I installed one on my 70, to operate a Centerforce backed T5 trans. I broke 3 cables, which is dangerous as you instantly loose the ability to get the car into gear, although if you're lucky, you can get it out of gear. I got stranded 450 miles from home one time with a broken cable. Went with JMC hydraulic linkage kit. Yes, the bracket did not provide a perfectly straight travel for the slave cylinder rod. However, slightly enlarging one hole and using a couple of washers to shim the bracket got it lined up. After that, absolutely zero maintenance needs.

good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,657 Posts
I am also adamantly against cable clutches, as the one I has from Ron Morris literally hurt to use it was so stiff. I am loving my hydraulic clutch. It is easy to use, and doesn't have that unsightly cable (as Craig pointed out)

That being said, it is rather pricey. Also, I have developed a small squeal that occurs whenever I am not applying any pressure on the clutch. I think it is metal on metal contact. I know I can easily fix it, but that is one problem that I did not have with the cable clutch setup...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,068 Posts
The only reason I would consider either cable or Hydralic is to accomadate a rack & pinion steering kit. Otherwise, I like the simplicty of the OEM system.
 

·
Gone but never forgetten
Joined
·
25,239 Posts
Hydraulic, hands down. Don't know why you'd have a problem with brackets, and I've never heard about them needing any real maintenance. The brackets that came with my JMC hydraulic worked without modifications, and I haven't touched it, all at, since the day I put it in a couple years ago.

You've driven Scary before, so I'm probably not telling you anything new when I say the clutch in Scary is at least as easy to push as the one in my son's Honda.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,068 Posts
John, Does your kit use the hydralic TB?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,218 Posts
My vote is for the Z-bar.

On my '65 I have a McLeod hydraulic throwout bearing, using the '65 bell with a California Pony Cars spacer between the bell and the T5. Also a Scott Drake roller bearing pedal pivot kit. Effort is about the same as the Z-bar. I believe the external slave cylinder systems are lower effort than the hydraulic TOB, because they get to use the leverage of the clutch fork.

The reason I prefer the Z bar is the feel you get from a direct mechanical linkage. At first I stalled the engine quite often and it was very tiring to drive in town, with me trying to modulate the clutch pedal to avoid killing the engine and to make smooth shifts. As with all fine motor control tasks, however, the setup has taught me to do better and now the fatigue factor is pretty much gone. I can roll through those 20-30 minute stop and goes without noticing it. I still stall it once in awhile though, usually when the stereo is cranked too loud.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,356 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The reason I am asking because I am in the midst of doing the T5 conversion on my brother's car. When we called JMC they said 3 out of 10 hydraulic kits comes back because of how the mounting brackets. Since it's not straight on the tranny.

Personally I want to go hydraulic after driving scary but I want to make sure after I install it not to have that many problems.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,794 Posts
i used Mustang Steve cable setup, works great without any problems. Use a late model clutch / pressure plate and bell setup and you wont have a hard to push pedal.
Its a little harder to push the pedal in compared to my 2006 Mustng GT with stick shift,but its not an issue at all.
i looked at ALL options and was ready to go hydraulic until i ran into the power brake booster being in the way of things.
i didnt find any suitable "to me"work around .im happy with the Mustang Steve setup,basic ,simple and works.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,810 Posts
wayne50f1 said:
i used Mustang Steve cable setup, works great without any problems. Use a late model clutch / pressure plate and bell setup and you wont have a hard to push pedal.
...
+1

That's what I did, and all works great, and I love the micro-adjusting you can do at the firewall. I did have a little bit of any issue with header clearance at the cable attachment point on the bell. I wrapped the cable in heat-resistant blanket material and "hopefully" that will work fine. Since I'm running with a R&P unit, I HATED }:| that OEM mechanical linkage, as it was just in the way of EVERYTHING. By the way, did I mention that I HATED }:| the OEM mechanical linkage?! }:| }:| }:|

I am of the mindset that anything with fluid in it will leak! So I like the simple mechanics of the cable clutch. :p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
430 Posts
I would have to say that I am very impressed with my JMC hydraulic kit. It works great, was easy to install, the pedal has a great feel to it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
556 Posts
Rorin67 said:
wayne50f1 said:
i used Mustang Steve cable setup, works great without any problems. Use a late model clutch / pressure plate and bell setup and you wont have a hard to push pedal.
...
+1

That's what I did, and all works great, and I love the micro-adjusting you can do at the firewall. I did have a little bit of any issue with header clearance at the cable attachment point on the bell. I wrapped the cable in heat-resistant blanket material and "hopefully" that will work fine.
Same here. My Cable clutch has been maintenance free (knock on wood), but its only been in since august. But it actually touches my headers at a point that I've wrapped well, and hasn't burnt through or anything
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,218 Posts
Rorin67 said:
wayne50f1 said:
I am of the mindset that anything with fluid in it will leak!
I don't have a lot of miles on my McLeod hydraulic throwout bearing, but I take comfort in the thought that it's the same system as GM used with all the T-56 Corvettes, Camaros, and Firebirds out there. Also some Jeeps. I am not aware of any history of failures in these OE setups.

My system also uses the JMC master cylinder, which is really just a CNC master with a different bracket welded on. I have not heard of any failures at this end, either.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,150 Posts
I made my own cable set up and it's been 5 years now with out a single issue. In the 65/66 cars you have more room under the dash so the extra hieght allows for a longer arm making the clutch easier to operate. if I had to do it over again I would go with a HYD. kit just for the clean looks of it and the cable i used is no longer made.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,897 Posts
cmayna said:
When I'm ready to address that issue with Shag it will be hydraulic clutch or standard clutch. I hate the looks of cable clutches.
I'm also not a huge fan of the cable setups, but I'm also not a huge fan of the plastic M/C for the hydraulic either. A few cars I have seen use a stock looking Zbar with a spherical ended rod from the pedal to the Zbar, very nice looking setup. Anyone used a different MC than the plastic one?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
102 Posts
I thought I saw a hydraulic kit a little while back that included a polished aluminum master cylinder. IIRC it was about $430 plus shipping.
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top