[tom991]

Back in 2010 I was rebuilding my engine, I asks for advice on a choice of cams to go with what I wanted.

I told the tech that I had a C4OE five bolt 289 block bored .040 over, stock crank and rods, Speed Pro flattop hyperthereticut pistons.C4OE heads that were milled and port matched new valves 1.94" intake, 1.6" exhaust, treaded rocker studs, the carb I'm using is the original Autolite 4100 1.08. and a Edlebrock 289 performer intake with a 1" thermal spacer between the intake and carb, I believe I'm running a 3:1 rear behind a T5 trans out of a 94 V6 Mustang. I told the tech that I didn't want my car to be heavily loping when stopped in traffic, but quick off the line with excellent throttle response and decent gas mileage without putting my foot into it, . He threw several cam ideas at me, I chose the Crane Energizer 130032 kit. It's specs are:

Cam Style: Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,200-4,200
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 204
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 204
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 204 int./204 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 260
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 260
Advertised Duration: 260 int./260 exh.
Intake Vave Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.456 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.456 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.456 int./0.456 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees): 110

After assembly and getting the engine dialed in the car is very responsive, doesn't stumble when going WOT from a stand still. I chose the Crane mainly because they have been making cams forever and the brand was extremely popular back in the day.

I'm considering going with a Holley Sniper or FiTech EFI setup down the road. will EFI change my cam requirements? As an after thought with my setup are there cams that would be better suited, giving me excellent throttle response and maybe even more power or should I be happy with my setup. I know I could go with a higher lift but was afraid I'd get the lope I wanted to avoid, or is the lope caused by separation or duration or something else?

Thanks

 

[Huskinhano]

I think it'll work very well with the FiTech. All of these EFI systems are adaptive. Unless you had a radical cam and maybe a dual plane intake, I don't think you'd have a issue. I think you're going to have a very responsible combination

 

[2nd 66]

Lope is mostly from overlap/duration . I see many of the EFI setups being happier with a single plane intake the Edelbrock performer you mentioned is a dual plane

 

[tom991]

Lope is mostly from overlap/duration . I see many of the EFI setups being happier with a single plane intake the Edelbrock performer you mentioned is a dual plane

So any recommendations for a single plane intake when I go EFI? I'm only familiar with the dual plane intakes OEM and Edelbrock.

 

[cj428mach]

I'd add 10-15 degrees of duration and change to a 112lsa.

 

[66coupe289]

It sounds like your car is running fine, why go EFI?

If changing cam to go EFI you might well consider going retrofit roller...

 

[stephen_wilson]

So any recommendations for a single plane intake when I go EFI? I'm only familiar with the dual plane intakes OEM and Edelbrock.

Maybe this one ? Good for a mild build with OEM heads IMO.

WEIAND X-CELERATOR Single Plane Aluminum Intake Manifold...

New, never used - $200.00

www.vintage-mustang.com

 

[LSG]

Tom, if you want a fuel injection system, you can keep the dual plane, The alleged single plane preference is because some manufacturers don't know what they are doing. The MAP, Manifold Absolute Pressure sender needs to be able to see the entire engine, not just half. Some EFI kits don't seem to understand this. How much vacuum do you have at idle ? LSG

 

[tom991]

Tom, if you want a fuel injection system, you can keep the dual plane, The alleged single plane preference is because some manufacturers don't know what they are doing. The MAP, Manifold Absolute Pressure sender needs to be able to see the entire engine, not just half. Some EFI kits don't seem to understand this. How much vacuum do you have at idle ? LSG

Thanks LSG, That's nice to know about keeping my intake. I would like to move ahead without having to take two steps backwards first.

Last time I put the vacuum gage on the car was when I swapped the OEM Ford Carb spacer to an aftermarket phenolic spacer. Before I was getting about 12 Hg, with the phenolic spacer I get a steady 16 Hg, I had it up to 19 Hg at idle adjusting timing and A/F needles but under load I got a lot of pinging and loss of power so I found that 12 degree BTC initial timing was the sweet spot. I have a T5 transmission and manual disc/drum brakes so besides the PCV and vacuum advance, nothing else connected that needs a vacuum hookup. My distributor has a Pertronix III module in it. If I can't find a place locally (Vero Beach, FL) to have the distributor recurved to my engine specs I got a quote from the Mustang Barn around $300 to recurve the distributor. The distributor is a stock replacement I got from local chain parts store when I rebuild my motor in 2010.

 

[bmcgc]

For the most part, a fuel injection system that bolts on a carburetor manifold is basically an electronic carburetor. it sound like you are not looking to add more fuel, just use fuel more efficiently.

 

[stephen_wilson]

Tom, if you want a fuel injection system, you can keep the dual plane, The alleged single plane preference is because some manufacturers don't know what they are doing.

OK, which Manufacturers will work with a dual-plane? I've seen the "alleged" problem mentioned many times for both of the main players, Fitech and Holley.

 

[tom991]

For the most part, a fuel injection system that bolts on a carburetor manifold is basically an electronic carburetor. it sound like you are not looking to add more fuel, just use fuel more efficiently.

Exactly, and perhaps more power as well, not that I'm going to do burnouts in a 56 year old car, more highway cruising power.

 

[66coupe289]

I got a quote from the Mustang Barn around $300 to recurve the distributor. The distributor is a stock replacement I got from local chain parts store when I rebuild my motor in 2010.

Hmm. That sounds like the full rebuild + recurve cost. I sent my Duraspark in and it was damaged in shipping. Dan got me a good rebuilt unit and recurved it and shipped it to me for $200. I may have saved $20 if I had sourced a rebuilt unit and shipped it to him for the recurve, but it was not worth it to me. I think the standard recurve is $85+ shipping.