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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thinking of a cam change in the near future and looking for a few suggestions. Here is what I currently have 289 bored 0.0030 over, 66 heads with Edelbrock valve springs and roller rockers, Edelbrock performer cam and intake topped of with a 600 CFM Holley. I want a bit more lumpy of a cam, but I'm on a bit of a budget and I'd to swap it out without switching springs. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
 

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The comp cams XE series are much better than the old edelbrock cams but they have pretty aggresive ramps.. You may need different springs but the springs can be changed without pulling the heads off....I also agree with johnpro that an intake upgrade to something like a performer rpm would be a nice improvement and your going to have it off while doing the cam swap anyway.
 

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Id grab a stealth intake junk that edel carb, and grab a nice holley. then swap in a 270S. this is a good cam street strip use. Allthough if you are more street driven type of guy go with the 270H. nice idle, increase of power and should run above what you want. to atleast 6 grand.
 

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well the 270H is nice from what I hear but we need to know what kind of tranny and gearing you are running. I wouldnt run the 270H with an auto and stock converter...I have heard it idle in a 351w and it is a beast. If you do a 2400 stall and 355 gears and 270H with a RPM/Air-Gap you will probably not recognize it as the same car....


Im running a 68 jcode 302 with 3001 gears and stock converter and I just got some GT40's ported and polished with big double springs, Air gap manifold, 600 eddy carb, headers, and im probably going to order the summit/crane k3601 which is a 218/228 split duration at .050 and with 1.7 rockers will be .501 lift and a 114LSA makes it streetable in an automatic like mine. I probably would have gone up to a comp xe268H if i had gears and a 2400 stall converter. the summit k3601 should be a nice step up from your low 200's duration performer. Crane has a copy of the performer made for summit and the one i mentioned is the step bigger. more like a torker plus but with slightly less overlap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
3 speed manual, 2.79 peg leg. I can't seem to find any specs on the valve springs, can anybody shed some light on this?
 

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The springs need to match the camshaft to prevent valve float and make sure nothing is binding...I'm not sure what your looking to do with the car but switching to some lower gears would really give the car a kick in the pants and help get it moving.
 

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I would surely hate to change a cam without changing springs. Springs get old and worn over time- do you know how old they are?

If you get a cam that is within limits of what the springs can hold- you will more than likely be fine. But I don't want it on my conscience to say it's fine when there is a chance that a spring could snap if you're using old springs with a more aggressive cam.

Chaz
 

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a 270H for a 289/302 is fine with a c4 with a stock stall converter.
I also wouldnt waste your money on roller rockers, as most seem to think it is just an excuse for running the wrong cam. And IIRC fordmuscle.com did a dyno test with switching stocker rockers to roller rockers with a higher ratio and they gained nothing from them.

a 270H should be used with new springs. I wouldnt chance it. Springs arnt that expensive and good insurance. But remember to much spring is also bad so i would call the cam manufactorer you plan to use and get the spring recommendations from them.

if you want to keep those springs go with the 268H mild street cam with .456" lift from comp cams. You will like it.

gears would do wonders, but you will loose economy with the three speed. swap some 380's in there and be done with it. although they are harsh for street something less would probably be more in order.
 

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trashline said:
I also wouldnt waste your money on roller rockers, as most seem to think it is just an excuse for running the wrong cam.
Huh?..Can you explain this one?...
I would defintely recommend running roller rockers.No you probably won't see much of an increase in power but at least you will know they aren't going to bind against the stud at full lift or flex under the pressure of stiff valve springs..Stock rail rockers are hard on the valve stems with a stock cam let alone a performance one.
 

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Is the OP's vehicle a factory V8 car? Seeing the 2.80 rear and 3-speed, I ask the question. If so, a four speed and 3.50 gear is where I'd spend my money. That will really wake up the engine. With the current setup, I would not make any cam or intake changes. That's a solid 14 second combination when optimized (with the aforementioned parts and some suspension work).

Pat
 

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frdnut said:
trashline said:
I also wouldnt waste your money on roller rockers, as most seem to think it is just an excuse for running the wrong cam.
Huh?..Can you explain this one?...
I would defintely recommend running roller rockers.No you probably won't see much of an increase in power but at least you will know they aren't going to bind against the stud at full lift or flex under the pressure of stiff valve springs..Stock rail rockers are hard on the valve stems with a stock cam let alone a performance one.
For what he wants todo, he does not need aftermarket rockers. spend the 200+ bucks on something else it is a waste of money.
 

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I agree with camachinist: gears, baby, save your coin for the gears.

If it's an 8inch, scrounge around for the best cheap pumpkin that you can. I'd go as deep as 3.80s on the street, but anything will be an improvement on what you have. Hell, I gave away an early open case with 3.25s, and an open 3.00 last year - you can find if you scrounge hard enough. If I had any others I'd send one your way, but I cleaned out my 8inch stuff. It will make the car feel like you put a new engine in it.

It's a matter of preference, and I've run Holleys and Edelbrocks, both are good. But for a street combo, I love the smoothness of the Edelbrock. Keep that carb and save the money.

The 3sp has a first gear 3.08, if memory serves. If you do go for the 4sp, try and find a wide ratio box, 2.72 first gear vs 2.32 (jump in if my memory on the gear ratios is incorrect)- you'll like it better for the street.

If you spend your money on a cam, the Comp 268HE is a good one.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'm piecing a 5 speed swap together as we speak, but I got some extra money for Christmas and was looking into a cam to one-up my brother. As for the roller rockers, I already have them along with everything else listed in the first post. The gears are an option but, I'm looking into an 8.8 swap and don't want to sink too much into the 8'' unless I can find a limited slip for a decent price.
 

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trashline said:
I also wouldnt waste your money on roller rockers,

And IIRC fordmuscle.com did a dyno test with switching stocker rockers to roller rockers with a higher ratio and they gained nothing from them.
Parneli said:
Here is what I currently have 289 bored 0.0030 over, 66 heads with Edelbrock valve springs and roller rockers,
He already has the roller rockers.

That Ford Muscle article you mention has a major flaw, they didn't test on the same day. I have seen .2s differences due to weather 50F vs 80F. Also, as they speculate in the article about different heads, they may have a clue. Stock Ford heads don't flow much more going from .444 to .472 and the duration change is relatively small, add this to flawed test and no wonder they didn't see improvement.

A friend had AFR185 on 306 with B303 and he picked over 10 hp when swapping intake rockers to 1.7 ratio.

But still I agree that roller rockers may not be the most cost efficient upgrade to basically stock engine.


Parneli said:
8.8" rear swap
Why? It is quite lot of work, it's wider, it doesn't have spring pads or are you going with coils? Or do you actually mean 9" swap?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yes a 8.8. Car Craft did a piece a few months back putting a 8.8 in a 67 with the total cost being no more than $400. Plus if you start with an 8.8 out of an explorer it's already leaf-sprung and some come with limited-slips. Sure, it takes a little work but doesn't everything worth-while?

Plus the likely-hood of finding a 67 9'' empty housing for less than $500 is close to nill. Then you still have the cost of the third member, axles and the misc. hardware, but I digressed.
 

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parneli70 said:
Yes a 8.8. Car Craft did a piece a few months back putting a 8.8 in a 67 with the total cost being no more than $400. Plus if you start with an 8.8 out of an explorer it's already leaf-sprung and some come with limited-slips. Sure, it takes a little work but doesn't everything worth-while?

Plus the likely-hood of finding a 67 9'' empty housing for less than $500 is close to nill. Then you still have the cost of the third member, axles and the misc. hardware, but I digressed.
I believe the 9" is the same width across Mustangs and Cougars from 67-70, and in 69 and 70 all Cougars had 9" rears because the base engine was the 351W 2v - might help you score a cheap one.

But I've heard the 8.8 works well too.
 

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Arto65FB said:
trashline said:
I also wouldnt waste your money on roller rockers,

And IIRC fordmuscle.com did a dyno test with switching stocker rockers to roller rockers with a higher ratio and they gained nothing from them.
Parneli said:
Here is what I currently have 289 bored 0.0030 over, 66 heads with Edelbrock valve springs and roller rockers,
He already has the roller rockers.

That Ford Muscle article you mention has a major flaw, they didn't test on the same day. I have seen .2s differences due to weather 50F vs 80F. Also, as they speculate in the article about different heads, they may have a clue. Stock Ford heads don't flow much more going from .444 to .472 and the duration change is relatively small, add this to flawed test and no wonder they didn't see improvement.

A friend had AFR185 on 306 with B303 and he picked over 10 hp when swapping intake rockers to 1.7 ratio.

But still I agree that roller rockers may not be the most cost efficient upgrade to basically stock engine.


Parneli said:
8.8" rear swap
Why? It is quite lot of work, it's wider, it doesn't have spring pads or are you going with coils? Or do you actually mean 9" swap?
I agree totally with what you say, and besides the fact that he allready has them, it isnt a modification that is needed. Just like you said.
 

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Well I think a cam would still be a good thing to upgrade seeing as that yours is pretty mild. Then again like you guys mentioned a rear end with some gears would be the same as adding a good amount of power. I have heard the 268H is a nice street cam but again if your switching you might as well go up to a 262XE.

Everyone has told me the 270H is old tech because I wanted one for awhile. Also, I know comp lists it as the biggest to go without a converter but thats a worst case scenerio. When I called them and talked to several tech's they said unless im running more like a 3.55 gear than it wont be that good for me. They said go 268H...


Also I know a guy running an old shop and he only runs 270H in a manual car. He said you can do it in an auto but at the stoplight its gonna have to be put in neutral if you sit for awhile or its going to probably die. I think the xe262 is basically more tech than a 270h with faster ramp speeds and split profile. But trust me iv had a Heck of a time deciding on a cam for myself. Im in the same situation. If i go more than the cam i mentioned in my first post then ill need more gear and stall. I daily drive mine so it has to have some kind of manners. I dont want my passangers jewelry to fall off when my car idles...even though I REALLY want it to snarl and lope. I just dont know if there is a happy medium...if there is please tell me!!!
 
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