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I remember you answered something like this for me a few weeks ago. I've got a differential that seems to be leaking badly from the front. You mentioned that I could pull the front section(sorry, at work no manual), not the whole pumpkin and I could then replace the seal. I'm a little concerned that doing this might change the mating of the gears somewhat, even though I'm not changing the spacing shims. Now walk me through this, when I pull that front section, will the shaft still stay in supported solid? And I suppose I'll have to change the crush sleeve, which I can't identify in the manual since they don't call it a crush sleeve. Will I end up with loose bearings that I have to reassemble? Or will the front section just come off with everything attached to either it or the shaft? Not to mention if the crush sleeve is crushed, how do I get it out? And will a lot of oil drain out, I don't really want to pull axles and open the pumpkin just to drain it.

Sorry to rattle on. I'm just wondering if the problems I can run into are worth the effort to just stop a slow leak? I guess if you could tell me what will come out of the thing it might sooth my fears!

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66 C-code convertible
66 C-code coupe
65 GTO hardtop
76 Nova hatchback
 

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First, clean the area where the leak seems to be to determine exactly what the problem is...a pressure washer and degreaser works best...

If the leak is from the mating surface where the pinion support meets the pumpkin, then it's an o-ring on the support that needs replacing... remove the support, replace the o-ring, re-install...easy..just use the depth shim that comes off over again.

If it's the pinion yoke seal, then the picture is a bit more complex...you'll need the seal and a new crush sleeve at the minimum....bearings are likely ok but they're also a replacement possibility...

The crush sleeve sets the bearing preload...the specs and how to do this is in your service manual...

If you have any more questions after determining the problem and reading up, please post..

BTW, when you pull the pinion support, all the gear oil will drain out...have a pan handy...I hate 90W..*G*

As long as you use the same depth shim over, your pinion depth will remain the same...

The old crush sleeve will slide right off when you pull the pinion out of the support...DO NOT re-use it...it may also be called a bearing spacer

None of the above is difficult if you have the proper tools (you'll need a torque wrench or long handled breaker bar to tighten the pinion to crush the sleeve), a good bench vise to clamp on the pinion yoke while tightening and a service manual describing the procedure...you can get the parts (I believe a kit is available) from most any parts house...Summit for example...

Good luck!

Pat
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Discussion Starter #3
Between your description and the manual, I should be able to square it away.

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66 C-code convertible
66 C-code coupe
65 GTO hardtop
76 Nova hatchback
 
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There are some other considerations. If your gears are the non-hunting or partial non-hunting type, the pinion must be reinstalled in the exact same position relative to the ring gear to preserve the lap pattern. Most likely your leak is due to a worn closure seal. Changing these seals without taking everything apart is actually common practice but a little more art than science.

In either case, the first step is to set the parking brake for the duration. Remove the driveshaft and clean the pinion nut and pinion stud face. Put a daub of paint across the nut and stud face at the 12 o'clock position.

If going the fast route:
Put a pipe wrench on the yoke and remove the pinion nut. Put a puller on the yoke and remove it. Pry off the seal, lube and install a new seal, reinstall yoke (preferably same position), install nut and tighten approximately 1/4 turn beyond original location.

If going the long route:
Unbolt and remove pinion bearing housing. Put assembly in vise and remove nut and yoke. Remove from vise and press off outer bearing on hydraulic press. Replace crush sleeve, remove closure seal, reinstall pinion in bearing housing, reinstall outter bearing, install new seal, install yoke and nut. Tighten nut with BIG wrench until crush sleeve begins to collapse. Continue to tighten in increments checking the preload until about 12 to 15 in-lbs(yes, need in-lb torque wrench) is attained. Install new o-ring. Install assembly in pumpkin ensuring the paint daub on the pinion stud face is again at 12 o'clock. Bolt it all in, install driveshaft, add lube - done.

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