[Richelieu]

Okey doke... need to get me a cam for my 302 (with 351W heads)... I see people mentioning, "a good mild cam"... or "hard cam" or something to that effect... What woud that equate to exactly? Numbers wise?

I have the opportunity to get a 280-290 Duration, 479-496 Lift Lunati Cam. Supposedly this is as much as it can be without putting the valves into the pistons on their upstroke... so I'm told... Would this be classified as a racing cam?

I'm looking for a cam that gives me decent milage, good HP and torque... It'll be put in a daily driver (to work and back) maybe the occasional road trip. Not driven in winters... only Spring (after snow gone), Summer, Fall, etc...

Just wondering... This cam also comes with the springs and cam lifters, and the lifters are matched to the lobes. I made sure that was checked... no retainers though... all this for $60. How does that sound?

Rich
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'66, 302-4bbl, Granada disk brakes, etc, etc...

 

[66benchcoupe]

Whats more important is the duration at 0.50".

Black primer 66 coupe, bench seat, 68 302-2V, C-4, 3.55 TSD
879 posts as "66 bench-coupe" on old VMF
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[Richelieu]

That I don't know... I was just given those numbers by my father, who got them from the guy who had it. *shrugs* Do they not use those numbers anymore to identify cams?

Rich
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'66, 302-4bbl, Granada disk brakes, etc, etc...

 

[66benchcoupe]

I meant 0.050". That number says more about the duration of the valve than total duration. It indicates how steep the lobe of the cam is. They use those numbers to identify cams but more info is needed to really determine how the cam will work. I'm no expert and I'm sure someone else here could tell you more or know something about that specific cam. Mustang and Fords magazine had an article on it last month if you want to read up on cam dynamics.

Black primer 66 coupe, bench seat, 68 302-2V, C-4, 3.55 TSD
879 posts as "66 bench-coupe" on old VMF
robert94928 on Yahoo Messenger

 

[Arto65FB]

Sounds like a reasonable cam. 280-290 are most likely advertised durations intake and exhaust. Shouldn't be too much duration for daily driver. .050 lift would be in 210-224 range. Lift is good, shouldn't be problem (unless really weird intake closing or exhaust opening. eh, or was it the other way round). But what do you mean "get a cam"? Is it used or new? If new, seems like a good price and I would go for it. But if used, no idea??

Door handle first to corner

 

[Guest]

I run an edelbrock Performer RPM in my stang w/ an adv. dur of 290/300 and .496/.520 lift. It has a very noticeable idle but is reliable and never loads up, dies, or does any other "wild" cam antics. Sounds like you got a good cam. I have heard that you should never re-use lifters so if it's used that's something to think about. Also new valve springs would be a good idea (if you don't already have em).

You can never have too much power, just not enough traction.

 

[Richelieu]

It's a used cam.... I figured that a new cam would run me around $120 or so, so this might be a good investment... then again, I heard the same thing about lifters and springs... and if I get new lifters and stuff, I might as well get a matched new cam as well..

Rich
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'66, 302-4bbl, Granada disk brakes, etc, etc...

 

[Richelieu]

yeah, I was under the impression that I just couldn't mismatch lifters... so as long as the lifters were still matched to the lobes of the cam, i'd be ok. they'd still wear normally as before.

Rich
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'66, 302-4bbl, Granada disk brakes, etc, etc...

 

[Arto65FB]

Maybe you could haggle the price a bit. If it does look ok, show the seller 50, he might sell it. Used cam is always a bit of risk. But then if installed correctly they seldom (oh well, so far I have installed one) explode the whole engine. Lobes can be chewed even when everything is well-planned, but the loss is then just the 50 or 60. Most likely it will go well though. If installation is successful, you have a good package for reasonable money. Check what the Paw charges for their SSI (or whatever brand it was) packages and compare to that.

Door handle first when cornering