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Discussion Starter #21
Do you have mufflers?

You say "all the vacuum lines are plugged except the pcv." What about vacuum advance to your distributor?

When I started my car for the first time I had a couple fans blowing at the front of the car. Mostly to encourage fumes and exhaust to go out my garage door.
No mufflers, just added the headers. Modular valve, power brake booster and vacuum advance to distributor all disconnected and plugged as are all of the vacuum ports on the carb. I'm using 2 box fans on the radiator too.
 

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Wouldn’t have believed it,.....thanks.
yep this is one of those things like installing a new clutch and then dyno tuning your new setup. You're supposed to break in the clutch before abuse but you kind of need to tune the car to drive it.....so most just break the rules and hope it doesn't bite them.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I dont know how many times you've started and shut down the car but my hunch is worrying about idling the motor is by now a moot point.
What do you base your statement on Lightning? The only thing I've read about having to stop and restart (and I've seen 2 or 3 that have had to stop and restart) says as long as I've never had the motor under 2k I haven't done any damage.
 

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Um, yeah. Connect your vacuum advance and try again. I don't understand why it would be disconnected. Only disconnect or pinch the line to set base timing.
 

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What do you base your statement on Lightning? The only thing I've read about having to stop and restart (and I've seen 2 or 3 that have had to stop and restart) says as long as I've never had the motor under 2k I haven't done any damage.
Most new cams are wiped at or near the first few times they’re started. If you haven’t wiped it by now and it’s been cycled a few times chances are you won’t wipe it. Particularly if it’s stock. Much of the danger comes with higher performance builds or with custom grinds. Back when the cars were first made they didn’t do a rigorous cam break in procedure.
 

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I agree, if you aren't running crazy spring pressure you're probably fine. Some guys start their car up and get right through the break in like it was nothing. But a number of guys also may have other small issues and don't get through it in one shot. I'd say that's pretty common, actually.

I think if you connect your vacuum advance you're good to give it another shot.
 

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What do you base your statement on Lightning? The only thing I've read about having to stop and restart (and I've seen 2 or 3 that have had to stop and restart) says as long as I've never had the motor under 2k I haven't done any damage.
Everytime you shut the engine down the lubrication drains to the oil pan. The next start while not completely dry, also isnt heavily lubricated like it was with assembly lube for the initial start up. If you haven't wiped it yet, its probably alright.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Thanks for all of the responses. I tried to go back over everything. Cooling system seems fine(pic attached while running)and carb jets are 66s. When I rechecked TDC after putting my reading glasses on I found out I was 1 tooth off. Corrected that and retried this morning. No real change. Headers got cherry red (pic attached) and got up to 530 per laser heat gun. Temp got up to 210 after 5 minutes so I shut it down. Cam now has 15 minutes accumulated time in 3 attempts. Should have read the plugs as soon as I shut it off but I didn't think about it until it had cooled down. So discouraged!
 

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That is very hot. Do this, remove #1 spark plug, bump the engine till you feel the air shoot out of the hole, rotate the engine with a socket to 10deg BTDC on balancer, mark #1 on the distributor and remove the cap. The rotor should be pretty much right over #1 at this point.
 

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When mine was glowing hot like that, and I did the check it was off by like 1/2". I removed it and dropped it where it was right over the #1 plug the glowing headers went away. Found this video right now when searching and its exactly what I did:


.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
When mine was glowing hot like that, and I did the check it was off by like 1/2". I removed it and dropped it where it was right over the #1 plug the glowing headers went away. Found this video right now when searching and its exactly what I did:


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Thanks my289! I will sure try this tomorrow. I have had a couple tell me to drop it in like that on 12 but on the other engines that I have done I have always dropped it in on TDC and I've never had the problem I'm having with this one. Thanks again.
 

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So did you hook up your vacuum advance?

If you can rotate your distributor enough to achieve your desired timing, picking up the distributor and dropping it in another tooth over does absolutely nothing but change where your vacuum advance canister is pointing.
YES! But watch people go crazy when you tell them there's no such thing as "a tooth off" except for where the vacuum canister is pointing. "Your timing is a tooth off" is almost as ubiquitous as "vapor lock" as the answer to your problems by someone who does not know the answer.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
So did you hook up your vacuum advance?



YES! But watch people go crazy when you tell them there's no such thing as "a tooth off" except for where the vacuum canister is pointing. "Your timing is a tooth off" is almost as ubiquitous as "vapor lock" as the answer to your problems by someone who does not know the answer.
yes
 

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Put a BFFan in front of the radiator, biggest one you can find or borrow! You have to check that your timing is correct. If you have points its easy. If you are going all in under 2k and if the vacuum advance is hooked up you could be way too advanced. Just set the initial timing old school with points or if you have a pickup - I just point one octopus leg at the inductor best I can and set it there till I can get it running and dial it in. Always works...

Feel/squeeze the hose to the top of the radiator as it warms up. It will stay coldish till the thermostat opens, then you will feel a definite flow of hot water when it opens - that is a good sign, if it doesn't have a moment where you can tell it opened, you have issues. Make sure the radiator cap is on and good so pressure builds up.

I use two people during break-in, one to work throttle and watch gauges while i quickly set timing (vacuum unplugged with screw in hose - till set then vacuum hooked up) then raise the idle to 2k or so.

I have NEVER had headers glow on startup with a BFFan... I just use a 2.5x2.5' ish foot window fan turned on full blast and placed on a box so it blows directly into the radiator.
 

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Too lean on the air to fuel ratio presuming you have the timing set close to correct.
 

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Just want to say I’m following and rooting for you!

I’d check TDC again and timing. Also I too used a box fan just to get some airflow going.

Also agree on having someone else there monitoring gauges. You should be checking timing and leaks. Go ahead and check adjust timing while running.

Good luck man! I know this stress.
 
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