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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm on my.. 20th revision of tuning my Holley Sniper on my 302W. I feel like im going 2 steps forward, 1 step back with every tweak

Don't get me wrong, i've learned a lot - but I'm just sick of constantly popping out the SD card, applying the learn values, tweaking the AFR and fuel tables etc - since i dont really have a plan or an idea of what I should be tuning for.


My car doesnt seem to mind WHAT AFR I idle or WOT or cruise at - it all "works" more or less. But I cant seem to tell whats BEST.


Does anyone have a Tuner / Dyno in Southern California that they can recommend? I know the Sniper is a newish unit - so my only concern is i'll need to provide them with a USB to hook it up.
 

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No experience with these guys, but dyno tuning with a competent tuner is worth whatever it costs.

My car picked up 50HP in an afternoon, but the biggest benefit was the drivability was so much better afterwards.

Good luck!

Phil
 

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That's awesome! The feeling of a smooth powerful running engine is so calming and exhilarating at the same time.
 

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Glad you found a recommended business.
I tried Google Maps, typed in "dyno", and got 6 locations within 20 minutes. I went to visit them one day (they were all on the same major highway) and learned a great deal (as in only one had ever touched a carburetor). What I wanted was someone to do an air-fuel chart at various throttle settings and rpms/loads so I could tune the Holley properly. I think a full chart is necessary to get good drivability. The shops with dynamic dynos could do the task, but the one with the inertia dyno (simply a big drum) could not. The prices I was quoted are in the same ballpark. I haven't done it yet as I'm considering swapping the Holley for an Edlebrook. One of my many winter decisions.
 

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good thread to know
 

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Swanson tuned a 347 in a 90 LX for a friend . He did a good job and the engine never hurt parts. Consistent mid elevens daily driver with the automatic trans and 4.30 gears.
Randy
 

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No experience with these guys, but dyno tuning with a competent tuner is worth whatever it costs.

My car picked up 50HP in an afternoon, but the biggest benefit was the drivability was so much better afterwards.

Good luck!

Phil
If you could post or PM your tuner I would be much obliged!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm not expecting any big power gains - and my Sniper does drive smooth (for the most part) - my whole thing is I'm tired of tinkering, especially since I don't know what my engines optimum AFR is for each condition.

right now I have my 302 w/ "mild" cam at 14 idle, 14.5 cruise, and 13 WOT - and I'm getting 10mpg city - and im sure I can do better


This is where I got my motor (the cheap one ... which ... obviously i regret now)
Ford Turnkey Crate Engines for Ford 302 and Ford 351Windsor TURNKEY packages

They claim 285 HP and 325 TQ (I'm assuming this is crank) - so I'm interested to see whats at the wheels (the EFI, and maybe my longtube headers will probably help) - Im gonna guess I get 250 at the wheels?
 

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I would recommend you buy a wideband to verify lambda, we use the AEM X series wideband even with these Fitech/Sniper systems running their own O2 sensor and have seen them be off. As to power, without knowing engine specs I will say 265HP, 295torque out of a mild 302 at the wheels. Unless you have very weak heads. Did a 302 with worked up GT40 heads and that’s what it made at the wheels with a 95GT
 

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Aren’t Holley Sniper systems supposed to tune themselves given certain parameters? Not that a dyno session is wasted, but it isn’t really clear what you are chasing.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Aren’t Holley Sniper systems supposed to tune themselves given certain parameters? Not that a dyno session is wasted, but it isn’t really clear what you are chasing.
thats just the marketing.

its all trying to tune to what ever you set in this AFR table


AFR table sets the closed loop compensation > closed loop compensation sets the fuel learn table > fuel learn table gets applied to the base fuel table.

There are also zones where it will NOT tune (coasting mostly) you need to have your foot on the gas or be within 400 rpm of idle for learning to occur, so my coasting AFR's are ALL over the place

my thing is - I pulled these AFR values out of my butt more or less.
I have no idea what my engine likes for Idle, vs cruise, vs WOT - as i've tried 20 different combinations... and they all more or less "worked" but theres too many variables for me to know whats best (power and efficiency wise)


I would recommend you buy a wideband to verify lambda, we use the AEM X series wideband even with these Fitech/Sniper systems running their own O2 sensor and have seen them be off. As to power, without knowing engine specs I will say 265HP, 295torque out of a mild 302 at the wheels. Unless you have very weak heads. Did a 302 with worked up GT40 heads and that’s what it made at the wheels with a 95GT
the Sniper uses this Bosch o2 sensor (with Holley branding) i've since replaced it with a new one, as Holley apparently had a bad batch.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009J3EXGQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
are you suggesting I install a second o2 sensor / gauge?
 

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Discussion Starter #15

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Discussion Starter #17

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Yes, i do suggest you get a wideband and verify air fuel ratio. I have seen the cheap O2’s that come with these units be off or not work just like you mentioned about defective sensors. If you want to stay in LA, we are in Gardena, near the 91 and 110 but everything we do is by appointment. Coasthigh.com or message me tobias at coasthigh.com
 
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