[boss351]

I know I can physically stroke it, but is it worth it? Is there anything different then the early blocks, besides the strength? I once heard you can't move the distributor in them, is that true? Because they are computer controlled or somthing? What year did that start, and Is there any other dis-advantage to one of those blocks?

 

[Guest]

Hey, You can stroke the 80's blocks... One problem though,
many of the blocks seem to suffer from core shifts.

Adam

 

[boss351]

what exactley is a core shift? got anything to do with the crank sliding in the block?

 

[Guest]

Hey, quick reply... Anyway, the core shift can best be shown
when looking at the underside of the motor near each bore. IF the motor has a core shift the iron will be biased to one
side the bore. So one side is thicker than the other.

 

[boss351]

if I have everything balanced, will I still have this problem?

 

[Guest]

Well it's not that... The core shift is a problem that happens when the block is cast! Sometimes this means a block can only be bored .030 or less...

 

[boss351]

I see, so Im gonna have to have a machine shop check it out first. I am going to be getting a car that has a 351W, and a tranny with it for free, so even if the block is trashed, at least I can sell some of the other things off of it, and buy a good early block. I guess I will have to wait and see. I am going to go with a 393 stroker......

 

[Guest]

The core shifts are pretty obvious when you have the oil pan
off.... Also, if the cylinder wall is 1/8" thick it should be fine. A core shift block can still be used if not bored
too much.

Adam

 

[boss351]

Are these blocks equiped with roller cams? Because if they are that would save some money, so I wouldn't have to have it retro-fitted.

 

[Guest]

If you want a factory roller you'll need a '94+ block!

Adam

 

[boss351]

okay, thanks!

 

[GypsyR]

Watch out out for the screwball non-adjustable distributor fiasco, that happened to some 351W's right around 1980. I'm not positive about which (or all?) blocks they did this to.
You can use the block if a "good" macine shop pronounces it fit for use. The 69-74 blocks are better choices. Between 74 and 75 the W's block lost 10 pounds. Unfortunately a lot this weight was extra metal around the main bearing webs (read--strength). These blocks in good condition are getting rarer every day. Of course the best choice would be a brand new Motorsport block if you wallet is fat enough. If you're like me, then you have to make do with what you can come up with. If the 80 block proves not to be defective-stroke it!

 

[Guest]

Go for a 69, it has bigger valves too.

 

[mstngjoe]

If you have any doubts about the cyl wall thickness or core shift issues, have the cyl bores sonic tested. That way you know for sure what the wall thickness is. Should cost less than $100.

 

[boss351]

Im going with alluminum heads, so that isn't an issue.

 

[sbryant]

You might look for one from a late 80's police LTD. Mine came out of an '89, and it was factory carb'd so it had a front cover that has the mechanical fuel pump boss. The timing is also adjusted at the dizzy, I guess since the engine wasn't EFI? Anyway, it worked out well for me...

Shane

 

[msolnik]

I WOULD NOT stroke an 80s block. They were not very good for high HP engines... You would need to do a lot of work to it - to hold a well built stroker. $$$$ 4 bolt mains, main girdle etc etc.

Just keep looking for that early block or if you have the extra cash buy a sportsman....

Mathew

 

[Art]

I WOULD NOT stroke an 80s block. They were not very good for high HP engines... You would need to do a lot of work to it - to hold a well built stroker. $$$$ 4 bolt mains, main girdle etc etc.

I built a 392 using a 1984 W block, going thru two years, no problems.... But then my motor doesn't produce 500RWHP like yours...Heh! /forums/images/icons/wink.gif

 

[msolnik]

Hehe. True i was talking about myself hehe... dont want something that will come apart with a 300 shot of nitrous.. For a mild stroker 500HP at the crank or less 80s blocks are fine.. But if you plan to go all out might want to decide on a better block. I would at least get a main girdle... Probe Industries sells them for 170$. From what i could tell from talking to boss351 he was seeming to want to go all out.... high end everything... But then again i could be wrong. Art is right that for a mild stroker the 80s block is fine but for an extreme i would go early or aftermarket.

 

[boss351]

I would like to go all out, but at the same time I have to think about street drivability. I think I will probably end up with 450-490 FWHP. That would still give me around 375 RWHP..... enough to dust most bowties around here.