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Discussion Starter #1
I am looking for a realistic ballpark HP figure for my engine, just trying to get an idea. Here she goes:
289 stroked to 347 bored .040 over, 10:1 compression, edelbrock performer rpm cam(lift .496 intake, .520 exhaust, duration 290 int, 300 exh), edelbrock performer rpm intake, 600 cfm edelbrock carb, performer rpm heads(1.90" intake), hydraulic lifters, windage tray(might give me a few extra HP), HP pulley kit, no fan to turn(running electric one). I think that is about it.
TIA
 

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Based on your description I would say 320-340 dynoed HP you don't mention if your going to port the heads or what exhaust you will be running, headers, stock manifolds. Keep in mind breathing for the motor is very important. better it breathes the more power it will develop
 

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I highly recommend you find a shop in your area to do a chassis dyno tune-up. You will have the timing and A/F ratio optimized and know that your engine is running in top form. Consider the expense just another "part" for the buildup.

You won't regret it and you'll KNOW how much tq/hp your getting to the ground. No more bench racing or "estimating". :)

Good luck!
 

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I'd say 375-400 HP at the flywheel and probably 400 ft/lbs of torque.
It would be a huge torque monster :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Figured I would forget something :). 1 5/8" headers 2 1/2" mandrel bent pipes, x pipe, and probably 2 chamber flowmasters, maybe dynomax.
 

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I agree with Tbav... you should be in the high 300's or low 400's for both HP and Torque at the flywheel.

I'm running virtually the same set-up and my engine analyzer software comes in at 407HP & 409Tq.

Now keep in mind this is all theoretical! Real world Engine and Chassis Dyno's are ALWAYS different. Not to mention the fact that the type of drive train has a big impact on rear wheel HP. But even with a 25% reduction in RWHP, you're still looking at something very close to 300 Rear Wheel HP and that aint bad!

Ken
 
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