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What cubic inch motor?

  • Big bore 363

    Votes: 24 53.3%
  • Regular bore 347

    Votes: 7 15.6%
  • Big bore short stroke 347

    Votes: 7 15.6%
  • regular bore 331

    Votes: 2 4.4%
  • Stop wasting your money on this endless money pit because you need to save for retirement!

    Votes: 5 11.1%
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·

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600 lbs springs. You will be fine. That 1/32" sheet metal will hold the engine to your car.
 

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1965 2+2 Vintage Burgundy A-code C4
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Just get a fiberglass hood, fenders, delete hood latch assembly , radio, heater, trim fingernails, nose hair, etc., you’ll be back in balance in no time. I foresee pictures with 3 wheels off the ground.
 

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Torque is key to corner exit. Thanks for the feedback on stroke/bore, now you got me thinking. I've got 7 yrs of autocross on my 1st gen 302, its getting tired....oh sorry, I'm the one getting tired. My only worry with running that much power/torque is the twisting to the towers and subframe, even with SF connectors and perf cross members & braces. As it is, I find stuff broken or loose all the time after a every race weekend. Can't imagine the damage a 450+hp/tq monster would do to a 65/66. You'd need a gallon of red loctite handy.
 

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I have a 1000hp 363 in my car and wouldnt change anything. It runs really good and I havent had any issues with it thus far even pushing a healthy amount of boost. I had Woody build mine and I can tell you his work is second to none. Absolutely flawless build and attention to detail.
 

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Your 366 weighs as much as my 427 SO now. You might want to weld the tower and put the reinforcements at the base of the outside tower.
 

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I hate the 70+lb weight penalty that the Dart block brings but it is what it is unless I win the lottery and go aluminum.
That's perfect for us, add weight to the front and some more power and come back an tell us if the car actually became faster or slower on an autocross track.
 

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1966 GT Fastback, 289 EFI, T5z
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I'm done with the 331 saga! I've said that 7 engine pulls now LOL! It's costing me $700 in bearings, gaskets, and head resurfacing to get that turd in one piece again with no guarantees it will work out. So I gave Woody a call this afternoon to get in line, an 8 month or more line for a Dart block based stroker. We talked about options and I was leaning toward the 3.25 stroke big bore 347 but Woody, who is not shy about sharing his opinion said he would build whatever I want but saw no reason not to do the 3.40 stroke 363 because torque makes people happy and why not be as happy as you can be, "paraphrased" I hate the 70+lb weight penalty that the Dart block brings but it is what it is unless I win the lottery and go aluminum. Woody's short blocks are $5200 but I probably have double that in my current turd. The only thing that concerns me about the big bore is the limited room between the bores and potential head gasket failure.
You know you're gonna spend the money, one way or another, so go big. And what is the cost differential for the aluminum block? Take out a second (or third) mortgage, and go all the way. The aluminum block will solve your (car's) weight problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
You know you're gonna spend the money, one way or another, so go big. And what is the cost differential for the aluminum block? Take out a second (or third) mortgage, and go all the way. The aluminum block will solve your (car's) weight problem.
I think an iron Dart block is $2200 and the aluminum one is $6800! I have no idea who Bill Mitchell is but he lists a aluminum block for $5000.Bill Mitchell Products BMP 087520 – Aluminum Engine Block Ford Small Block 302 Mains, 8.200 Deck, 4.115 Bore, Billet Caps – Bill Mitchell Products
 

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Sounds like the important upgrade here is to get lots of rpms, so the engine kan be spun way past normal redline without any fear. If the car (and you) gets faster you will probably wish even higher rpms than you need now.
 

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I have an aluminum block 374. RDI/Ford racing 8.2 deck. 3.500 crank and 4.125 bore. The aluminum block is nice but does not make as much power as the iron block because ring seal is never as god as an iron block
 
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I have an aluminum block 374. RDI/Ford racing 8.2 deck. 3.500 crank and 4.125 bore. The aluminum block is nice but does not make as much power as the iron block because ring seal is never as god as an iron block
Why is that? I assume it would have steel sleeves? My tiny brain would think it would be the same...
 

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A small block is going to be an easier fit in a '65 then a 351 based block...so I agree with your block choice.

Given it's a SBF, AND you are already ponying up for an expensive big-bore capable block....my view is it makes no sense to NOT take advantage of the larger bore capability.

363 all the way.
 

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My 2¢, and candidly it probably isn’t worth that much …

I’d send the current heads to Woody and have him build the entire thing, and then have him dyno the engine. Considering your tortured history, that might result in both a better build and a less expensive (over time) option.

As for size, it sounds like your goal is for as wide a usable rpm range as possible. Your current heads probably limit the available power at the top end, but I wouldn’t think they’d limit the use of those high rpms when you wanted to save shifting at the end of the straight.

Did you ask Woody which size he would recommend? (Or did I miss that?).
 
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