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Discussion Starter #1
I am installing a Canton 15-610 7qt T shaped pan. I would like to retain the stock dipstick but it hits the horizontal baffle. The dipstick is about 1" too long and if I cut it off the bottom would be above the add oil line.
I am confident I can l transfer the location down to where I could drill a 1/2 hole in the baffle to facilitate the dip stick penetrating. Given this is a street car. I am not seeing a big deal with a 1/2" hole near the front of the pan in the horizontal baffle.

The second option is to use the bung in the Canton pan made for an aftermarket dipstick. I would just have to plug the hole in the timing cover for the existing dipstick tube.

Regardless, I guess I am going to have to put 6 quarts in, prime the filter and check the low/fill line then add the 7th quart and mark the full line just to make sure the level is correct.

What have others done?
 

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Seal the hole in the timing cover with a soft plug, or if you cant find a soft plug, use a bolt and some JB weld. You will have to fab a tube for the dipstick, and use as compression fitting on the tube to secure it to the pan. Or use the Canton dipstick kit which comes with a tube. If you use the Canton dipstick, be sure and paint the handle, it's made from cheap Chicom steel and will rust quickly.
 

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Spammer Hammer
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That’s weird, my 7 quart Canton pan has a hole in the plate to allow the stock dipstick to pass through. I trimmed the dipstick, poured in 7 quarts, ran the engine, allowed the oil to settle after shutting off, and marked where the new full reading was on the stick.
 

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That’s weird, my 7 quart Canton pan has a hole in the plate to allow the stock dipstick to pass through. I trimmed the dipstick, poured in 7 quarts, ran the engine, allowed the oil to settle after shutting off, and marked where the new full reading was on the stick.
Both of mine were the same with no pan mod's needed.

Check the angle of the dip tube as tweaking it might help.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My pan does have the hole like the pictures on the Canton site. I will give it a go. Perhaps it is an optical illusion of where it looks like the dipstick comes down.

My bigger problem now is the pickup. It looks like the pickup tube was manufactured incorrectly. I thought it was weird that the screen did not sit horizontal and when I tried to install the pan, sure enough it hit the pan before the pan would hit the block. It sticks down about 9", which is no good for an 8" pan. Errr.

In the picture with the tape measure the camera is held roughly parallel with the bottom of the engine. The side shot shows how far off it is relative to the windage tray. Am I correct that it should be roughly parallel with the windage tray?

Te pickup was NOS as I bought it 10+ years ago and it was still in the package. Sadly I pulled it out to the package last week and tossed the packaging. I have no way to confirm the part number on pickup. I have ordered a new 15-611 pickup, Melling 68-HV pump and remote dipstick. Just a little frustrated.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
My bad on the pickup. It is a 15-661 and I need a 15-611.
 

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Spammer Hammer
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That doesn’t look correct at all. Are you using a B2 style windage tray? You can’t use those with a Canton pickup. You need a Canton Windage tray unless the 15-611 pickup is made for a B2 tray. You also need to place a straight edge across the bottom of the pickup and get a true measurement at the pan rail. I had to tweak my pickup a little to get the desired 1/4”-3/8” gap at the pan.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That doesn’t look correct at all. Are you using a B2 style windage tray? You can’t use those with a Canton pickup. You need a Canton Windage tray unless the 15-611 pickup is made for a B2 tray. You also need to place a straight edge across the bottom of the pickup and get a true measurement at the pan rail. I had to tweak my pickup a little to get the desired 1/4”-3/8” gap at the pan.
The windage tray is not a Canton tray. From the looks of the Canton tray it appears I will have to cope my tray for pickup clearance. That should be an easy modification. Thanks for the heads up. If anyone needs a 15-661 pickup let me know.
 

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Yep, that's a 351W pickup, the bolts on the pickup flange have a different angle than the 289/302 pump.

No worries about adding a hole in the sump tray to clear the dipstick. The designs for those are a compromise anyway, you try to cover as much of the sump as possible, but have to allow for the pickup, pump and other hardware that gets in the way. No matter what, it's light years better than a stock oil pan.
 

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Spammer Hammer
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This windage tray works with the correct pickup. However, it doesn’t clear the rear shallow part of the canton pan. Go figure. I called canton and asked had they ever tried to assemble their windage tray to their pan on a SBF. I got no real answer. I ended up cutting a triangle section out the rear of the windage tray, bending down about 15 degrees and welding it back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
^^^ Looking at the Canton windage tray they do hang it down significantly from the main cap mounting location. Mine is much tighter to the main caps. Given it cleared the rear of the stock pan, it should clear the rear of the Canton. Friday the correct pickup should be delivered, so I should know then if I need to modify my windage tray.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So the new pickup arrived today. I was mistaken, the windage tray does not stop at the 2nd main cap, but all is okay. There was slight contact with the pickup tube in one area. I was able to work a small area of the tray with a hammer so that it did not touch the tube. I only had to move a 1" x 1" area about 1/16".

The original dipstick will work, but it touches the baffle about 1/2" before it fully seats in the tube. It can be pushed in, but I can feel it scraping on the baffle so I know it is deflecting in the pan. I think I will remove about 5/8" of the dipstick after I put 6 quarts in and know it will register 1 qt low.
 
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