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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so I was able to bring home a 67 convertible the other day with a 289 in it. put a new starter and solenoid in it and the car cranks over but will not start. pulled the coil wire off the distributor and there is no fire or spark coming out of it. installed new points and set the points, installed new condenser, new rotor cap and new coil. car will still not start. just for clarity, I am using an alternate fuel source as well as starting fluid. the car will crank but not start up. I am completely lost as what to do next as this goes past my skills. I am out of ideas as to how to proceed. Please Need Help

thanks
 

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Are you getting spark now that you've replaced points, condenser, rotor, cap and coil? Nothing's going to happen until you have spark. Then you can determine if the spark is occurring at the right time.
 

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You need to see if you have voltage at the + side of the coil with the key in Run and with the key in Start positions.
First, and for most!
 

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Perhaps the coil is bad? Check the primary sides "+" and "-" OHMs Results? (Primary) Then, a terminal to the coil output results? (secondary)
The coils is suspect if you have known 12Vs and no output.
 

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If you have voltage to the coil then your problem is down stream. When you are cranking the engine with the distributor cap removed can you see/hear a spark jumping across the points when they open? If not the wire coming from the coil - may be shorted where it passes through the side of the distributor. Or your points are shorted out to the base plate. Not uncommon with cheap chinese points. If you are getting spark across the points then put the distributor cap back on and check the big wire coming out of the coil for spark by holding the cap end close to a ground. If you don't have spark your rotor is not correct.
 

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Leave the cap off and make sure that the distributor is actually turning when you crank the car.

If the oil pump seized and broke the shear pin or the shaft the distributor won't turn and the points won't open and close so you won't get any spark.

Not the most likely candidate for your problem, but it's another thing to check and it only takes a minute and won't cost anything so it's worth looking at.
 

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did you gap the points to .017
did you check your plugs
do you have the ground strap inside the dizzy


as mentioned pull the large wire off the cap and hold it about 1/2 inch off a manifold or head bolt with insulated pliers

have someone crank the car., you should have a blue spark with a nice snap to it

do you have a shot of gas squirting out the carb when you step on the pedal

if not your floats might be stuck. give the carb a few raps with a mallet or a hammer and block of wood near where the fuel line is
 

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I did check that with a test light and when I tested that the test light came on
Ok, if the test light probe is touching the "+" side of the coil, that indicates 12Vs into the coil. An easy spark test....

Remove the distr. cap rotate the engine to get the point contacts to a closed position (flat on the cam). Pull the coil wire from the cap, lay near a ground on the manifold (Insert a paper clip in the terminal).
Turn the ignition to "ON". This sends 12Vs to the coil.
Use a small device (non-metal) to manually open the points. Use should hear a "snap" and see a healthy spark at the paperclip end near the ground. Manually opening and closing the Points in this way, simulates the engine cranking to fire when we attempt to start the engine.

If no "spark', insure the points, condenser, and the little ground strap and all else for being in place. If correct, suspect the coil? If you do get a spark, inspect the rotor terminal severe arc wear, its contact point in the center of the cap, (transfer point for the coil spark), check the cap for any cracks or carbon tracking and its terminals.

Report your findings
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Update--so I installed new condenser, new points with a 17000th gap, new rotor and I do not know if this has anything to do with it or not but I observed some oxidation in the distributor around the edges so I lightly sanded all around the distributor base in and out of the base and started testing everything. With the key on i have voltage to the coil, power from the coil to the points. So then I removed the cap and cranked the motor and I saw an arc at the points. I then pulled the coil wire from the top of the distributor and held it close to the alternator bracket and there was spark there as well. I pulled a spark plug wire and grounded it but there was no spark coming from the spark plug wire. Subsequently I deduced that the distributor cap was bad. Installed a new distributor cap and checked the spark plug wire and now there is spark. Sprayed some starter fluid down the carb and fired up the car and FINALLY she tired to start. Tomorrow I will hook up an alternate gas source and hopefully she will run. Thanks for all the help.
 

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Bet you learned a bunch too. Good for you!
 
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