[jntmjt1]

Hi,

I have been having a lot of trouble with my 65 coupe (200 I6, auto trans) since the weather warmed up.

I put a holley rebuilt carb on the car, and it didn't fix my problem. I took it back and exchanged it for another one and still the same results only slightly better.

When I stop hard, my car dies. It cranks for a few seconds before it fires back up. This happens only when the car is hot.

I added a spacer between the manifold and the carb. The spacer consists of about five gaskets stacked up on top of each other.

Could my problem be the fuel filter/pump? I replaced the pump & filter about a year ago with a good quality one.

Thanks for your help,
John Thomas

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=525545&a=7533002&p=26667243.jpg
65 coupe pics: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=525545&a=3848066
66 conv pics: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=525545&a=7533002

 

[johnpro]

My first guess, is incorrect float setting in the carb ... where are you getting these carbs from? The problem with most rebuilt carbs, is only the obviously worn parts are replaced before it's thrown back in a box and re-sold. I've never had any luck with rebuilt carbs unless I rebuilt them myself.

If you're fuel pump is putting out too much pressure, it could cause the same symptom, as it would overwhelm the carbs float needle. Did this problem first start after replacing the fuel pump?

If you always do what you've always done,
You'll always get what you've always got
http://www.classic-mustang.net/johnpro
http://www.classic-mustang.net/john66/mustang/pics/66fsides2.jpg

 

[theboogins]

I had the same problem with mine except it would stall everytime I put it in reverse. Turned out the points were not gapped. You might check that.

J. Boggs


http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1574992&a=11972962&p=43108527.jpg

 

[jntmjt1]

Thanks for the info, guys. The carbs came from Checker Auto parts. And my car has a Pertronix in the distributor, so points are not a concern.

If you have any further input, or if anyone else can help, it would be much appreciated.

John Thomas

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=525545&a=7533002&p=26667243.jpg
65 coupe pics: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=525545&a=3848066
66 conv pics: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=525545&a=7533002

 

[Guest]

i had the same problem with my previous car (83 S-10) turned out to be the coil cable which was stripped.

67 C4, (1971 302 block), daily driver.

 

[jntmjt1]

Thanks for the info. What do you mean by the "coil cable"?

John Thomas

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=525545&a=7533002&p=26667243.jpg
65 coupe pics: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=525545&a=3848066
66 conv pics: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=525545&a=7533002

 

[bluebeast]

I put a rebuilt 2bbl on my car last year after I bought the car, everything was fine until about 6 months later the car did what you describe. I thought it was timing, even the tranny. The carb developed a leak so I went and returned it and got another rebuilt one. I haven't had a problem with stalling ever since I put the new one on (the 3rd carb in a year) That was two months ago and everything is still running great.....

RJ
68 Diamond Blue Coupe
Sprint Promotion A
289 2bbl with a C4

Click Here For Home Page

 

[Guest]

Does it stall from a short stop only or a quick stop from driving speed? There's a anti-stall dash pot on the carb for auto cars which is supposed to keep the throttle open a bit longer to stop the motor from stalling. This usually comes to play when you do a quick start then stop.
Does it stall right away as soon as you stomp on the brakes? or does it stall just before the car stops. If it stalls right away then maybe it's as another poster said, a shorted wire somewhere killing the ignition.



Adrien.


65 GT Coupe, dismantled waiting for resto.
67 Restomod Coupe, in assy.
69 Mach 1 S code, SWMBO say don't take it apart!
91 5.0 LX HB, driver.
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1594363&a=12146434&p=45590488.jpg

 

[jntmjt1]

Where is the anti-stall dashpot located? My car is an automatic, and I'm wondering if I have a carb for a manual without this dashpot.

The car only stalls right as the car comes to a complete stop. At initial braking, I have no problem.

Back to the dashpot. My old carb had a circular shaped object screwed into the right side just in front of the choke tube. The new carb does not have this item, nor any threads for it. It had the diameter similar to that of a quarter (.25 cent piece). It protruded about 1/2 inch and had a small hole in the center of it. Is this the piece you are talking about?

The original carb had this piece, my second carb had it, but the newest carb does not.

Thanks for the info,
John Thomas

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=525545&a=7533002&p=26667243.jpg
65 coupe pics: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=525545&a=3848066
66 conv pics: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=525545&a=7533002

 

[Guest]

I'll explain how the anti-stall dashpot works. Think of it as a device that will stop the throttle from closing quickly. It adds a delay before the throttle will close. Some devices use air and a diaphram. The original carb Autolite 1100 uses a diaphram and gas pushing through a small hole which takes a while to empty the chamber and keeps the throttle open longer. You can see this device on the front right of the picture. It's held on with 4 screws and has a lever mechanism passing vertically through it which is attached to the throttle shaft. In the case of the 1100 carb the dashpot looks like the accelerator pump on the opposite side of the carb.
Other carbs will use what looks like a vacuum diaphram device which will contact the throttle just before it closes. The device will then slowly release the throttle until it closes. New carb even use electric dashpots.

The other device you mention I believe is the spark control valve. This is the device in the small picture. I found these on the net. Do a yahoo search for +Autolite +1100 Also www.ponycarbs.com is another source of info.

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1594363&a=12146434&p=45693156.jpg
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1594363&a=12146434&p=45693158.jpg

I hope this helps.
Adrien.

65 GT Coupe, dismantled waiting for resto.
67 Restomod Coupe, in assy.
69 Mach 1 S code, SWMBO say don't take it apart!
91 5.0 LX HB, driver.
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1594363&a=12146434&p=45590488.jpg

 

[jntmjt1]

That is great information. I noticed there is what appears to be an adjustment bolt on the dashpot. Could turning this screw one way or the other help my problem? Would you have a clue as to which way I would need to go with it? It looks like it is screwed in not quite half way.

Thanks again,
John Thomas

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=525545&a=7533002&p=26667243.jpg
65 coupe pics: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=525545&a=3848066
66 conv pics: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=525545&a=7533002

 

[Guest]

The service manual, which I highly recommend for reference, says to put the throttle on the fast idle setting (close choke and open throttle) to get the pressure off the dashpot. Then it says to unscrew the adj screw until it's loose. Then screw it back in just to where it touches the dashpot plunger assy. Then it says to turn the screw 3 1/4 to 3 3/4 turns.

To check the dashpot, open the throttle and then let go. You should see the throttle stop just before it's closed and then slowly close. I think this take a second or two.

Adrien.



65 GT Coupe, dismantled waiting for resto.
67 Restomod Coupe, in assy.
69 Mach 1 S code, SWMBO say don't take it apart!
91 5.0 LX HB, driver.
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1594363&a=12146434&p=45590488.jpg