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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all

I just picked up a 67 coupe. Its my first old car and I need some advice.

My car has the straight 6 ( 200 ) single barrel carb.

I noticed that the car does not kick down after a few minutes of warming up. My buddies who are heavy Chevy guys looked at the carb, he said I have a hot air choke and that the carb should kick down after warming up. The car idles fine, it just idles high, he said it was adjusted to the lowest setting and that it cannot be turned down or slowed up.

I want to replace the entire carb rather than rebuild the old one, I don't know the history of the motor or how many times the carb has been rebuilt already.

My question lies here.... I want to spend under 300 for the new carb. I have looked around but I don't really know what Im looking at quality wise, I've seen carbs for a 100 bucks up to 400 for the Autolite 1100.

Can anyone recommend a good carb in that price range. Hopefully a newer version will have improved performance ?

Thanks

Stang.jpg
 

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Your auto choke can be adjusted and idle set correctly, I'm sure. The factory shop manual or instructions for doing so in another thread if searched would get you rolling right.
 

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Your choices are limited without modify things or changing to a later Large Log head.

You pretty much have to go with a Autolite 1100 or the Holley service replacement. In my opinion the 1100 is better although some folks swear by the Holley. In either case a properly rebuilt and adjusted carb runs well, but don't expect a lot of power. You need to spend some time on the Vintage Inlines and Classic Inlines web sites to learn about your engine.
 

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Your L6 won't "idle down" much as the engine warms. The auto-choke cam will stay engaged until you tap the throttle then it'll drop down to the idle screw. Being a 67, there's little chance the carb is the factory original (ie: it's been changed/rebuilt). If the carb is doing it's job with no leaks and the car runs fine, then why change it? Old adage: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". When you're dealing with classics, everything you have is old. You just have to learn to adjust things as necessary before you begin throwing parts at it. A new/rebuilt carb will also have to be adjusted after you install.
 

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Welcome to VMF. Before replacing things I would try to adjust the existing parts first.
It could be a simple thing which costs you a few bucks to fix. Can you post some pictures of the carb.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks for the replies. I will post a picture of the carb in the morning.

I have tried kicking down the throttle after the car warms by tapping the throttle but it does not kick down. when I shift into reverse it clunks a little because the engine in revving. my buddy looked at the carb and he said it could not be adjusted, but thats why I am here... I know you guys know best.
 

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If the car runs fine otherwise I'd just fix the choke issue. It could be something as simple as replacing the choke thermostatic cap, replacing a hot air tube or simply lubricating the fast idle cam and linkage.
 

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From the looks of your choke linkage, I'd say it needs some penetrating oil first. There's a screw down there that rides on the choke cam. This is the one you use to set your choke for cold engine idle. Down below that is the hot idle screw that's used for hot idle. You'll have to look down behind the choke linkage to see this screw (it contacts a tab on the carb linkage). Make sure the choke linkage drops away from the choke cam when you tap the throttle. Your temp gauge wouldn't have anything to do with your carb/choke/engine rpm. Once you get the engine to idle down, you'll have to adjusts mixture and maybe spark timing.
 

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Yep. Get a small CAN, not an aerosol but a "squeeze can" of Liquid Wrench. Apply it to the pivot points on the choke linkage... at the top by the choke plate, where the levers pivot, at the back of the choke housing, etc., all while moving the linkage back and forth until it's nice and free. Then see how it works. Oh yeah, BTW, the heater hose gets placed in that "hook" that holds it to the choke's thermostatic cap.
 

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Liquid Wrench works great... Great stuff, Did you know?!??!?!? - That tests were done with lots of cans of different brands of penetrating lubricants and Liquid Wrench came in 2nd right below the expensive Kroil stuff. Don't buy that crappy PB Blaster stuff....Leaves a white residue and does not work nearly as well as Liquid Wrench or even WD-40!

:eek:)

Tony K.
 
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