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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all, I'm new here.

So I've inherited my step-father's 1969 Mustang Grande, and boy oh boy do I have lots of questions.
But, the main one for now is my carb. It is stamped 4PEC on the drivers side near the forward mount, with a circle with 1.08 in it. From what I've managed to find the 1.08 is in refferance to the CFM (287 CFM). For the life of me I can't find any more info. I'm attempting to get a rebuild kit for it. So what carb do I have? Imgur Gallery of my Mustang.
 

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It sounds like you have an old Autolite 2100 series 2 barrel. There should be a metal tag under the head of one of the screws that hold the top over to the base but many of these tags were left off the first time the carb was overhauled. If that number were C4PE it would begin to make sense.
 

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It's a 2100 Autolite/Motorcraft carb just ask your your year car and engine. The kit will have a bunch of gaskets to cover multiple years of production.
 

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Hello all, I'm new here.

So I've inherited my step-father's 1969 Mustang Grande, and boy oh boy do I have lots of questions.
But, the main one for now is my carb. It is stamped 4PEC on the drivers side near the forward mount, with a circle with 1.08 in it. From what I've managed to find the 1.08 is in refferance to the CFM (287 CFM). For the life of me I can't find any more info. I'm attempting to get a rebuild kit for it. So what carb do I have? Imgur Gallery of my Mustang.
It is obviously a rebuilt carb. It appears to be a late 2100 which is consistent with a 69 car.

The 4PEC number seems odd. Can you get a pic of the markings?

In any case these are good carbs and easy to rebuild. I prefer Mikes Carburetor for excellent quality parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It is obviously a rebuilt carb. It appears to be a late 2100 which is consistent with a 69 car.

The 4PEC number seems odd. Can you get a pic of the markings?

In any case these are good carbs and easy to rebuild. I prefer Mikes Carburetor for excellent quality parts.
Thanks,
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It sounds like you have an old Autolite 2100 series 2 barrel. There should be a metal tag under the head of one of the screws that hold the top over to the base but many of these tags were left off the first time the carb was overhauled. If that number were C4PE it would begin to make sense.
Thanks, here is what #'s I could find


 

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The "1.08" in the circle is the diameter of the venturi (the holes where air is drawn through and mixed with the gas). Mostly it's just a way to help identify the carb.


The old 2100s are known to be really tough, dependable, great-running carbs, but unfortunately, they don't flow a lot. The heavy cast iron stock manifold also doesn't do a great job of helping the fuel/air mix get into the cylinders. Both are rather restrictive. For a gentle cruiser, you could probably rebuild it again, clean it up, and just enjoy the car.


If you want better performance, you might consider a good 500 CFM 4 barrel carburetor like the Summit M-series, or Autolite 4100 (the 4 barrel version of your 2100). Since you would need a manifold, an Edelbrock Performer 289 would go very well for mild street performance. If you intend to upgrade other things like your cam or exhaust, you may want to get the 600 CFM version of the Summit carb, and possibly a Weiand Stealth or Edelbrock Performer RPM.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The "1.08" in the circle is the diameter of the venturi (the holes where air is drawn through and mixed with the gas). Mostly it's just a way to help identify the carb.


The old 2100s are known to be really tough, dependable, great-running carbs, but unfortunately, they don't flow a lot. The heavy cast iron stock manifold also doesn't do a great job of helping the fuel/air mix get into the cylinders. Both are rather restrictive. For a gentle cruiser, you could probably rebuild it again, clean it up, and just enjoy the car.


If you want better performance, you might consider a good 500 CFM 4 barrel carburetor like the Summit M-series, or Autolite 4100 (the 4 barrel version of your 2100). Since you would need a manifold, an Edelbrock Performer 289 would go very well for mild street performance. If you intend to upgrade other things like your cam or exhaust, you may want to get the 600 CFM version of the Summit carb, and possibly a Weiand Stealth or Edelbrock Performer RPM.
Thanks for this info!
 

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I'm going to say that's a mis-stamp. 4PFC would be a generic replacement carb. Ford stocked them to replace *any* 2100 for service reasons. Keeps the individual part number count down in the inventory. Get the Ford kit. The others have incorrect gaskets that can cause all kinds of weird leaks in air and fuel flow. The 2100 is a bullet proof carb and will serve you well. Research other options well before diving into a 4V upgrade.
 
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The 4PEC is shorthand for D4PE-C which was the Ford 2100 carb used in 1973-74 on small block V-8s. It was mostly a service replacement carb although a few cars and trucks received them from the factory. There were several variations.

UNKNOWN D4PE-CAA
FORD TRUCK 1974 V-8. D4PE-CBA
UNKNOWN D4PE-CCA
UNKNOWN D4PE-CDA
UNKNOWN D4PE-CEA
FORD 1974 V-8 D4PE-CFA
FORD 1973-74 302,351,400 D4PE-CGA
MERCURY 1973-74 302,351,400 D4PE-CGA

The “unknown” designations are the service replacements that could be used on most any car.
 
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It appears that the carb in question is a newer version. The older ones had a flat top cover and the newer ones had the raised top cover.
You are correct, 1974 was pretty much the end of the 2100 before they moved completely to the 2150 which was first build in 1973.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for all the great info! Looks like I'm in the market for a Ford 2100 rebuild kit.
 
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