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Discussion Starter #1
This is a question for all the smart guys on here. Has anyone bypassed the spacer under the carb. I was thinking the heater hose that runs through it, is making the carb too hot and causing some percolation. Does anyone have an idea on this. My 200 runs very well until it gets hot. Then at stop lights or any stop it acts like it wants to die. I have it idling a little higher than the book calls for.
 

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I don't know of your specific setup, but, just reading about that heater hose running throng the carb base, is problem in my mind. I think, originally, this routing was to warm up the carb for emission reasons?

It would be helpful if you post more about your model, engine, year? There are many variables year to year.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have a 66 coupe. 200 6 cylinder. Autolite 1100 or the O’Reilly version. Petronix ignition inside original distributor. Petronix coil. New rebuilt head, plugs and wires. I was thinking the water hose that runs through the spacer is causing percolation after the engine is hot. I still have some choke problems, but all the idle issues happen after everything is warmed up.
 

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I have a 66 coupe. 200 6 cylinder. Autolite 1100 or the O’Reilly version. Petronix ignition inside original distributor. Petronix coil. New rebuilt head, plugs and wires. I was thinking the water hose that runs through the spacer is causing percolation after the engine is hot. I still have some choke problems, but all the idle issues happen after everything is warmed up.
Ok, so what are the choke and Idle issues (after warmed), specifically?
1. Is the choke completely open after warm?
2. Does the "fast" idle fall off after it's thoroughly warm? Is the curb idle "in spec" when warm?
 

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I've run my car with the spacer hooked up and with it bypassed. It doesn't seem to make any noticable difference on my car.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Throttle wide open after warmed up. At warm idle I have it set at 800. The fast idle does fall off, but doesn’t work right. I’m pretty sure all my problems are carb related but I dont know how to fix. Air mixture screw and idle screw are set right and timing is set at 12 BTDC.
 

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Throttle wide open after warmed up. At warm idle I have it set at 800. The fast idle does fall off, but doesn’t work right. I’m pretty sure all my problems are carb related but I dont know how to fix. Air mixture screw and idle screw are set right and timing is set at 12 BTDC.
Ok, so "the fast idle does fall off, but, doesn't work right". What's going on to cause you to make this comment?
 

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Your issues are probably NOT caused by the carburetor spacer. It's purpose is to circulate 200* engine coolant around the base of the carburetor to a) Prevent carburetor icing (which can occur in high humidity situations at ambient temperatures of 60*F and below), b) To improve driveability when ambient temperatures are below 70*F, regardless of humidity, by warming the intake charge and making it less dense and c) Permitting the coolant to take away excessive heat generated by the exhaust manifold, directly below the intake log.

If you are having driveability issues when hot the first places I'd look would be 1. fuel quality (excess ethanol), fuel line material and routing (should be OE steel with either fuel pump or carburetor-mounted inline filter) or excessive heat load (usually poor spark advance curves caused by worn/poorly calibrated distributor mechanism, ruptured vacuum advance diaphragm or defective carburetor Spark Control Valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I agree with everyone’s ideas and comments. I’m starting to believe that all my problems are carb related. My distributor is new with the Petronix ignition. The carb I have now is a Chinese knock off from O’Reillys. I will look around to see what I can find on a new carb.
 

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The spacer has two purposes. 1 use water to warm up the carb on cold days to prevent icing and 2. cool the carb on hot days. While it is not intuitive that hot water will cool the carb, the 195 degree water is cooler than the extremely hot exhaust manifold right under the intake manifold. The problem is modern fuel evaporates much easier than the fuel of the 60s. Running ethanol free fuel helps as does putting a phenolic spacer in to isolate the carb from the metal manifold.
 
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