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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If your engine is a 289 or 302, and it's mostly stock (even if it has an upgraded intake/headers), the 500 is an even better choice. Your engine just won't use 600 CFM unless you're putting it in under pressure. The 500 will have better throttle response and economy.

But if you have better heads/cam or plan to upgrade it in the future, the 600 will work pretty well on any of the Windsors too.

The M2008VS is a descendant of the Autolite 4100, but is easier to find parts for and tune these days. There's no better carburetor that I know of that's sized appropriately for these engines. I love 'em.
Headers, not stock cam (I was told by P.O.) and I may do heads in a while.

I believe the 600 has the annular boosters but the 500 doesn’t.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Funny, just yesterday I was thinking we hadn't heard from swooshdave in a while. kip
Some people consider that a blessing. :p

I’ve not done anything to the Mustang as the weather has been… damp. And I’ve been working on a BMW for the kid’s first car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I run a Summit 600 CFM and I really like it. But I also ran an Edelbrock 600 for many years and I liked that carb as well.

What don't you like about your Edelbrock carburetor? It may simply require some tuning. A calibration kit is much cheaper than a new carburetor.
I’m pissed at it for stalling in the stop box at the autocross. A known problem with the Edelbrock. I tried the off-road float needles but it didn’t make a difference.

I’m not sure if it’s flooding or starving under the hard braking but either way it’s unacceptable to stall and not be able to move when you have a car behind you.

Plus if I can get a bit more response I’ll be happy.

Based on my AFR gauge I feel the Edelbrock is tuned pretty well and makes a really nice street carb. Hopefully the Summit performs better on the autocross track.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The 500 has annular boosters too. All of the M2008 series do, as far as I know. It's listed on Summit's site accordingly: "Booster type: Annular"
I’m not sure where I thought I saw that. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Be sure your butterflies open freely, all the way to WOT, after its bolted down. Sometimes the butterflies will bind against gaskets or intake. Second, make sure you have all the linkage adapters to include a kick down for the tranny (depending on what you're running). You will need to re-config your fuel line setup, that also requires different fittings.

BTW, the stalling at the stop box is typically fuel flowing out the vent tube into the carb. Extend the vent tube with a short piece of hose, or connect the two vents and cut a small hole in the hose. This will keep the fuel from sloshing out the vents. Another option is pick up your idle to 900+.
Transmission is in my sig. 5 speed so no worries about kick down.

I’ve got the hard line setup for the Edelbrock.
Be sure your butterflies open freely, all the way to WOT, after its bolted down. Sometimes the butterflies will bind against gaskets or intake. Second, make sure you have all the linkage adapters to include a kick down for the tranny (depending on what you're running). You will need to re-config your fuel line setup, that also requires different fittings.

BTW, the stalling at the stop box is typically fuel flowing out the vent tube into the carb. Extend the vent tube with a short piece of hose, or connect the two vents and cut a small hole in the hose. This will keep the fuel from sloshing out the vents. Another option is pick up your idle to 900+.
Great notes on the vent tube.

I think my fuel lines will work as long as the Edelbrock filter is 3/8
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
You might want to check the length of the carburetor studs in the intake. The M2008VS comes with a phenolic spacer & I remember when I changed my Edelbrock 1405 to the Summit carb the carb studs were too short.
Any idea what length studs you went to?

According to Summit the base spacer is .25in thick. I’ll assume the flange thickness is the same or similar to the Edelbrock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
I have the 2 1/4 inch studs in there. They maybe a bit long but it works for me.


Nice!

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My current studs have about 1/4in or less showing. So I’ll probably need longer studs. But not much.

I have an in-line Edelbrock filter which is -6 AN so it should screw right into the Summit line.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Carb ordered. Also got the ARP studs. And while I was ordering... ARP valve cover studs. Hopefully here this weekend. I think I'll need to short my fuel line if I want to keep my inline fuel filter. Right now there are four filters between the tank and the carb. That fuel going into the carb better be clean!
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
That must be a record. I've heard of having an additional filter but never more than 2. Sounds like you need a new fuel tank.
Tank is new. There's a plastic filter (1) that I need to remove that is in front on the fuel pump. The old fuel pump was the newer style that didn't have a filter. I replaced it with the old style with the filter. (2) Then there's a inline filter (Edelbrock) just before the carb (3) and then there is a filter in the carb (4).

I will remove the plastic filter and potentially the Edelbrock filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I’ve run both on my 66. A used unrebuilt 600 Edelbrock and a new Summit 600. My back to back are pretty close. I will say the Summit seemed to be slightly smoother but not a night and day difference. I went back to my old Edelbrock primarily I had a rod and jet kit while I didn’t for the Summit and it was around $100. I forget whether it was going lean or rich at part throttle.

If you buy the Summit I’d highly suggest going through it before using it. It’s not as nicely made as the Edelbrock. Inside the boosters were a lot of burrs not removed from drilling. Jet markings are poorly stamped as well. Don’t get me wrong, they’re nice but I feel there’s more to be had with performance by going through it and detailing it.

If I was going out to buy a new carb, for me it would be the Edelbrock AVS with annular boosters.
I will definitely give it a good inspection when it arrives. Not sure if the quality has gone up or down since you had one. The price certainly has gone up.

You can get a Summit jetting kit for about $55. The same Holley kit is $100.

What I like about the Summit is it shares some DNA with the old Ford carb. Does that mean anything? Probably not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I've also run both and ended up with the Edelbrock. The Summit carb I had seemed to suffer from QC issues and Idled at 1000rpm with the screw all the way out. I never did figure out what was wrong with it but suspect it had an internal vacuum leak. Other than the idle issue it was a smooth and responsive carb but pulling up to stop lights at 1000 RPM was maddening. I ended up with the AVS2 Edelbrock carb with annular boostersa and was very happy with it. Bought the tune up kit, dialed it in and never looked back.
My Edelbrock 1406 won't idle correctly. It acts like it has a worn shaft bushing or something. I set the idle it to 650 or so and it wants to idle to 900-1000 when I come to a stop. If I lightly blip it will come down to 650. Something is not right.

The Summit carb was built to a price point. I'll post pictures if I find any defects or issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
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Carb came today. Along with carb studs and valve cover studs.

I gave it a once over and didn’t find anything amiss. When they decked the body it’s like the cutter isn’t wide enough. Should cause any issues but it’s not perfect. The casting where the air cleaner sits isn’t perfect either. I think there should be a gasket there?

I took it apart. Don’t like you have to take the choke off to take the top off. But at least your choke linkage can’t fall off.

But I haven’t found anything that makes me want to send it back yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
The hard line they included was ok but I’d need to change some things around. I ordered this other fuel line as I think it will fit even better.




I also ordered a jet kit in case I need to tweak it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Do NOT use teflon tape or sealer on the threads. For the AN fittings, torque them several times off the carburetor; don’t over-torque them, but put a little grunt on them. That seats them into one another without putting any load on the carburetor body itself. AN fittings don’t require much torque for service so don’t get carried away on final assembly.

If you want to keep from dinging up your shiny new fittings, line some crescent wrench jaws with electrical tape 😉
I think you can get fancy aluminum AN wrenches. For a part that will spend a majority of its life buried under the air cleaner I’m not overly worried.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
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Can’t really have an Edelbrock air cleaner after the carb swap. This came with a 289 HiPo sticker too.

Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Automotive tire Automotive design Hood

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New fuel line feed looks really nice. Of course it’s buried under the air cleaner.

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I really didn’t look at all the connectors. Going to try an extension next. Two more days of waiting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
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Got the 6AN to 6AN adapter today. I’m not a fan of the heater hose routing but that’s for another day. The Progression distributor wants full vacuum so that’s the port nearest the choke. Other distributors may want ported vacuum which is on the other side of the PCV port.

So all buttoned up. Will try to fire it up on Saturday. Fire extinguisher ready. You’ll know if I didn’t get a line tight enough because you’ll hear my wife squeal.

Recommendations on how to start a dry carb? Just crank it over until the bowls fill?
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I used a remote starter (key off) to check for leaks. Had to tighten up a lot of the fittings. Then went to start since bowls were full and nothing, no start. Battery is tired so I put it on the charger and will try again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Ok, got it started. I had to stretch the vacuum hose to the distributor and I think that kinked the hose. Once I swapped that out with a longer hose it started right up. Go figure.

Fast idle was way too high (2200) and the fast idle screw is comically hard to adjust. Then when it warmed up it wouldn’t idle below 1000.

I had heard of this happening before. The spacer they provide is… crude. I suspect air is leaking under the carb.

I decided to pull the carb and look it over again. That led to a bunch of drama when I couldn’t find one of the washers. I feared the worse, that it had fallen down the intake. Lots of searching until I wandered outside in the dark and found it where I had turned the carb upside down to drain the gas.

Anyways, I didn’t like the way the primary butterflies were sitting so I loosened the screws and resat them. I looked over things carefully and the fast idle screw had a crooked tip.

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Not sure if it apparent in the photo. I filed it flat.

I’ll get the carb back on and hopefully get the idle down. I’m going to try a light coat of sealant on the spacer. Hopefully that does the trick. I might also read the instructions and see what it should be torqued down to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Was there a reason you chose the summit over the Edelbrock AVS2? I recently went with the AVS2 with the annular boosters and I like it quite a bit. The Summit carb looks great and the new fuel lines look good as well. Hopefully its just a vacuum leak and you get it the idle down.
I wanted to try something different. It’s not much of a change to go from the 1406 to the AVS. You do get the annular boosters and a slight change to the secondary but that’s about it.

With the Summit I get the center hung floats, I shouldn’t get the flooding from the vent under hard braking (even if there’s a workaround) and it doesn’t have the metering rods. Plus I like it has some DNA from the original Autolite.
 
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