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Discussion Starter #1
I bought my '66 289 in April. It is a very original car. Looks good, runs good. In going thru everything I did notice that the carburetor had been replaced with what looks like an early 70's, '72 or '73, truck carburetor. I have tracked down a 2100 with a correct time frame tag thru FaceBook. The guy wanted $35 for the carb and $15 to ship. It's all there but does need rebuilding. So my question is who are the go to people for this and do I have it just rebuilt or also have it replaced, etc.
 

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I ended up going to a local place that specifically sold and rebuilt carburetor. They did it in a day and it cost me $250-ish. The rebuild kits are like $30 and if I didn't need the car working right away I likely would have tackled the project myself (even being the novice I am) as it would have been a blast. If you don't need the car - it's likely in your favor to buy a rebuild kit yourself so you can learn the ins and outs of it. But I think your area has a couple of diagnostic/repair shops that likely could do the rebuild for you. Good luck.
-Sea
 

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The key question would be "why does it need to be rebuilt?". If it has gotten dirt/crud sucked into the carb or is leaking, then a simple rebuild kit would work. I say this because I've encountered several carbs that someone decided it didn't need a fuel filter between the carb and fuel pump (or a carb that sat for years outside).
 

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The key question would be "why does it need to be rebuilt?". If it has gotten dirt/crud sucked into the carb or is leaking, then a simple rebuild kit would work. I say this because I've encountered several carbs that someone decided it didn't need a fuel filter between the carb and fuel pump (or a carb that sat for years outside).
I think the fact he bought it from some guy on Facebook Marketplace is reason enough to warrant a rebuild. I won't install a carb unless I've either removed it new from it's box, or rebuilt it personally.

OP - the 2100 Autolite is about the simplest carb you will ever rebuild. The factory shop manual, a couple cans of carb cleaner, some basic hand tools and a couple hours of your time are all that's needed. The rebuild kits have a pretty thorough instruction manual in them as well.
 

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IF YOU HAVE THE TIME AND DESIRE, DO IT YOURSELF, I DID. AS STATED THE 2100 IS VERY SIMPLE TO WORK ON AND THE REBUILT KITS / YOUTUBE INSTRUCTIONS ARE OUTSTANDING. MORE IMPORTANT IS THE FEELING YOU GET WHEN IT STARTS UP.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
This 2 tone look is what I'm asking about. Is this look concours correct or not? Trying to decide if I need to spend the money on it or not. If it's correct, I don't mind spending it.
737386
 

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the 2100 is a nothing simple fun carb to work on. Ive changed floats roadside on this thing.
if you can turn a screw driver you can rebuld it so long as it does not need any machining from warpage.
that youll need a pro for
 

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This 2 tone look is what I'm asking about. Is this look concours correct or not? Trying to decide if I need to spend the money on it or not. If it's correct, I don't mind spending it.
View attachment 737386
That is not a 2100. not sure what is is but maybe a 4100
 

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This 2 tone look is what I'm asking about. Is this look concours correct or not? Trying to decide if I need to spend the money on it or not. If it's correct, I don't mind spending it.
View attachment 737386
This is a 4100, but the general parts and finish are the same. The air horn chimneys and the choke butterfly pivot rod are brass, so those will polish up to that look. The steel parts were originally zinc plated with a yellow dichromate coating like pictured above. The only thing I see missing that plating is the choke plate. That throttle lever is not for Mustang, by the way. That ball-stud on the side (if memory serves) was for the throttle linkage of full-sized cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
This is a 4100, but the general parts and finish are the same. The air horn chimneys and the choke butterfly pivot rod are brass, so those will polish up to that look. The steel parts were originally zinc plated with a yellow dichromate coating like pictured above. The only thing I see missing that plating is the choke plate. That throttle lever is not for Mustang, by the way. That ball-stud on the side (if memory serves) was for the throttle linkage of full-sized cars.
I realize that the picture is not a 2100. I was merely showing the "2 tone" plating that I keep trying to get an answer about.

So what does a concours correct 2100 look like?
 
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