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1966 Convertible 6cyl 4sp
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've not done carpet in a looooong time.

I'M curious if I install the new "ACC Carpet Original Style Molded With Mass Back" over what's seen in this picture or if I'm supposed to pull any of this up first?

Thanks in advance.

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You can just go right over what you have there, as long as you don't leave any rust! Looks like a quick vacuum job and you're on your way!
 
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If it smells I would pull it up and replace it.
 
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1966 Convertible 6cyl 4sp
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If it smells I would pull it up and replace it.
What you see in the 1st pic doesn't smell - well actually maybe I should revisit that after the carpet smell dissipates 🙂

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I would replace it. It has probably absorbed a lot of moisture over the years.
 
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67 Fastback T5 331 TCI Frt End, Canted 4 link rear susp
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I agree it looks like you're in great shape, however if you don't pull it up, you won't know for certain the condition of the floor under it.
 

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Rip it up - clean it up - sand if necessary - rust spray paint it ..... sound deadening if you want. then lay the carpet. Pics below. The below was the original brownish and no center console.

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Since the carpet is out I would replace it too. The only way to make sure you don't have any rust underneath. If everything is good it is not too much work and rather cheap. If you find issues, well, better act now than later.
 

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I've not done carpet in a looooong time.

I'M curious if I install the new "ACC Carpet Original Style Molded With Mass Back" over what's seen in this picture or if I'm supposed to pull any of this up first?

Thanks in advance.

View attachment 815961
If that underlayment is in decent shape and isn't hiding a potentialy rusty floor, I'd leave it down. Assuming the floorboards are solid, I'd consider adding some general insulating type matting to keep hot and cold out, plus help deaden road noise. I did that to my 64.5 resto project, 2 years ago. It didnot hinder carpet installation. 🙂
 

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I'd say so!
A little touch-up and hard to beat clean original stuff.
 

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Front floorboards look pretty good.
View attachment 816458
That bit of surface rust should be treated with some sort of rust converter & then painted/sealed.
And yes, those front floor boards do look real good, considering their age. Better than mine were. My floorboards had many pin-holes, otherwise mostly solid. I repaired every pin hole by welding them shut. Then I treated every weld, surface rust area, etc., with a product called "Rust Bullet," which is a silver colored rust sealer/prohibiter. Mine was the brush-on type and believe me it gets on everything, even where U don't put it! And it sticks like a union, on a clean surface!
On my '64.5, the only big rusted out area was
under the back seat cushion in the back driverside rear corner. We had to cut out an area where there was an elongated hump where the emergency brake cable runs, recessed underneath. We welded a piece of steel over the area, heated it and reformed the flat sheet of steel so it had the form of the original hump. Then we Rust Bulleted it, inside & underside, to seal it, then painted it and used spray-on rubberized black undercoating underneath to completely seal it from water.
Properly prepaired surfaces, treated and sealed, rust will never return.
Do it right, do it once! 🙂
 

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1966 Convertible 6cyl 4sp
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
That bit of surface rust should be treated with some sort of rust converter & then painted/sealed.
Then I treated every weld, surface rust area, etc., with a product called "Rust Bullet," which is a silver colored rust sealer/prohibiter. Mine was the brush-on type and believe me it gets on everything, even where U don't put it! And it sticks like a union, on a clean surface!
Properly prepaired surfaces, treated and sealed, rust will never return.
Do it right, do it once! 🙂
What are your thoughts re: POR-15 ?
 

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What are your thoughts re: POR-15 ?
66R08T - I'd need to see a better pictures without the underlayment, but I'm not sure a full rust sealer paint job is warranted based on what I'm seeing. Most of that looks like underlayment residue or glue. I would just sand or scrub off any surface rust and spot coat any bare metal with a rust proof primer as needed. I have used Mastercoat silver on major floor board jobs before and would highly recommend if you feel you need it. I have no experience with por-15 but I'm sure that's perfectly fine too for what you need as well. Keep in mind most people here are used to major rust remediation when it comes to floor boards.

I know I said it before but seriously get new underlayment. Rust can stick to the underside of existing underlayment and you don't want to clean your floor boards and put the old stuff back down. And god knows how much moisture that stuff has absorbed over 55 years. Its like $50 buck for a new kit and it will insolate better.
 

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1966 Convertible 6cyl 4sp
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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
66R08T - I'd need to see a better pictures without the underlayment, but I'm not sure a full rust sealer paint job is warranted based on what I'm seeing.

I know I said it before but seriously get new underlayment. Rust can stick to the underside of existing underlayment and you don't want to clean your floor boards and put the old stuff back down. And god knows how much moisture that stuff has absorbed over 55 years. Its like $50 buck for a new kit and it will insolate better.
Thanks Ryan - I've pulled up the old underlayment and the backseat floor pans need work - several pinholes.
Do you have experience with Mass Back Carpet? According to ACC they recommend not adding anything between their Mass Back and the floor pans.
 

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What are your thoughts re: POR-15 ?
I believe POR-15 is another anti-rust/rust inhibitor, that I've heard about and is probably equal to the Rust Bullet I mentioned. I used the Rust Bullet, because my friend, who has restored 7everal cars, swears by it. He had some, hence we used it.
I've not used the POR-15, but wouldn't hesitate 2 do so. Either/or, it's always good practice to throw some paint over rust inhibiter for a bit of added protection. Water, etc., is one of the biggest enemies of a vehicle, so anything U can do to seal it out will be worth the effort. And on the bottom of the floorboards, wheelwells, inside of doors, inside the sub-frames, anywhere where water can get to, collect, pool, do whatever it takes to clean the surfaces as best U can then protect it. I took my Mustang to a body shop once and had the guy tap on the outside of the frame rails with a hammer to break loose anything inside. He blew compressed air thru the framerails and kept tapping till nothing came out anymore. Then he stuck a long wand up inside the front and rear frame rails and sprayed a rust inhibiter throughout the insides. Then we plugged all the access holes, of which some we drilled for access and other holes were already there.
Then I spent weeks under the car removing any old loose factory undercoating. I didnot remove any that was still firmly attached. I cleaned everything as best I could then used a good rubberized undercoating to re-seal everything again.
Granted, I never take the car out if rain is in the forecast or even a chance of rain. I baby the car, weatherwise. It hasn't seen rain since b4 I started the resto and that was in 1982.
I don't even wash it with the hose. I use a damp soft sponge and terrycloth rags and shami it dry. Last thing I want is water inside the doors or anywhere else, sitting for days and creating rust or attempting to.
The car is pretty much sealed, but it'll never see rain as long as I own it.
These days, the car is pretty much rust free.
I know this is long-winded, but I hope some of it can be of help 2 U. 🙂
 

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1966 Convertible 6cyl 4sp
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I believe POR-15 is another anti-rust/rust inhibitor, that I've heard about and is probably equal to the Rust Bullet I mentioned. I used the Rust Bullet, because my friend, who has restored 7everal cars, swears by it. He had some, hence we used it.
This the stuff?
I like the fact that it's gloss white
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I've used POR-15 and it is for exactly what it says it's for, painting over rust. It is even good for filling small pinholes. I wouldn't recommend it for an almost rust-free area like your floor pans, unless needed on the underside. It is extremely durable for rusty stuff, though, and it smells LOUD so use it in an open area with a fan and or a respirator and some safety glasses and gloves. Plan to get it on your clothes. It's like eating spaghetti with a solid white suit on. I spilled some on my garage floor a year and a half ago, it has been driven over daily and is absolutely un-phased. Don't get it on your skin!
 
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