[Guest]

I am going to replace the starter in my I6 coupe tomorrow.
I got a Duralast replacement from autozone.
Other than the proceedure listed in the Ford factory manual.

Does anyone have any tips, tricks, to watch out for's etc...

I have heard this can be very easy, or very hard.

Thanks

Jimbo65

65 I6 200 Coupe (Daily Driver)

 

[Huskinhano]

Should be a cake job!

Tom
You can do anything you want to......ONCE!
aka "my 66 coupe"
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1575517&a=11977890&p=44194856.jpg

Hale Boppe comet shot off my roof. See you can use 100 iso at night with no flash!

 

[autoxsteve]

Starters are very hard. Harder than my Norwegian head! Don't let it fall on yours! I was changing the starter in my Dad's 65 Corvair (I have discovered that ANY car from 1965 is great. This was prior to me owning a Ford) and I dropped it on my head. Ouch. I was a knothead for several days (some say I never fully recovered) *G*. Should be easy. Be careful though, they are heavy and remember to disconnect the battery at the positive terminal!



Steve Leslie, 65 coupe in restoration. 302, toploader, A/C, disc brakes, bench seat

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1571478&a=12287439&p=44845480.jpg

 

[Guest]

Jimbo...

Starter is easy to remove from over the right fender. Get yourself a 1/2" drive ratchet with, I believe, a 9/16" socket. Undo the bottom bolt and leave the top one in. Then get a long extension (10") with a knuckle (universal) or a wobble joint and put your left hand under the starter and undo the top bolt along with the cable with your right. Voila! (that's French for "damn near dropped that on the floor...").

P.S. For best results, wait for engine to cool...

Dan
Be a good dad to your kids and phone your mom twice a week...
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1589115&a=12097562&p=43884454.jpg

 

[Guest]

Didn't realize it was a Norwegian thing but it makes sense now. I caught one on the chin from a 69 Firebird 400 while setting the shims and after the stitch job got a new dimple out of it.

 

[autoxsteve]

My parents escaped from South Dakota and had me out here. Our heritage has always been refered to as 'block headed Norwegians'. *G*


Steve Leslie, 65 coupe in restoration. 302, toploader, A/C, disc brakes, bench seat

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1571478&a=12287439&p=44845480.jpg

 

[Midlife]

You might get both a M/T and A/T version from your parts store...sometimes the one that is supposed to go in doesn't, but the other one does. I have the A/T version in my 4-speed...go figure. Anyway, you can take the unused one back for a refund. This will save on nasty swear words when you can't get one in....

http://clubs.hemmings.com/baymustang/platesmall.jpgLet me check your shorts! My multimeter is just a-waiting! Formerly known as Midlife in the old VMF.
King of the Old Farts *struts*

 

[Guest]

If the one in the car is nonfunctional then take it out first and bring it there for them to match up. It has to come out anyway and you'd save the trouble of brnging it in when you're done to get the core deposit back.

http://www.hurtle.com/cars/mustang/sig.gif
Please contribute to my Reproduction Parts Rating Site

 

[Guest]

Steve, I'm a thorobread knothead myself. What can I say besides "Oofdah"!

 

[erials]

I had the same problem in my 4 speed 66 f/b. I had to also use an automatic starter. it was about a quarter inch longer. I messed up a ring gear on a fly wheel before I figured that one out.

 

[sbryant]

Provided you don't have &$^$ headers it should be easy. There were washers (spacers) between the starter and tranny on my '65. I had to use two telescoping magnetic pickup tools to correctly place the washers and bolts! Then it took several tries (with the bolt and washer falling out each time) to get the socket on there and get the bolt started! It turns out my starter was okay, but I left the new one in to keep from having to swap them back out!

'65 289 4V Edelbrock 1405 600CFM C-4 yada yada yada