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Discussion Starter #1
So, I got a wonderful video sent to me from the body shop of my Mustang dumping fuel from the accelerator pump and power valve on the 2 barrel 289. To the point of the fuel ponding on the intake and splashing the exhaust when idling. Thankfully nothing caught fire. It's an older aftermarket 2100 knock off.

Come to find out the body shop had noticed a small leak from the accelerator pump and decided to take it upon themselves to disassemble and put back together. Obviously they jacked that up because it was getting much worse. Regardless, they are good group of guys and appreciate their tenacity, but wish they would of just called.

I already have an intake and 4b Edelbrock I'm planning on putting on. But need to get the car down the road home when it's done. And I'd rather swing by the shop and throw a cheapie carb on there just for safety measures.
Curiosity, has anyone ever purchased one of these 2100 china carbs off of amazon? I found 2, and just wonder if I'm getting myself into deeper poo than needed to. I only need something to get it moving in and out of the shop.

Thoughts? I just figured it would be easier than rebuilding a carb I won't use.


 

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Discussion Starter #7
A new accelerator pump diaphragm and pushrod is $3.99 at Advance auto. MUCH cheaper than a cheap carb AND a tow.... Power valve is $7.40 shipped on eBay from US Carburetors...
You know what, I might even have a new power valve at home in my collection of carb rebuild stuff.
I'm just assuming it's that FYI as that's where it's leaking.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Funny, and. I get where you're coming from. But I'm not having the shop drag the car around the yard.
These are friends of mine, both personally and professionally. The easier I make their life, the lighter on the expense they are.
And the last thing I need is a fuel leaking car around.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That aftermarket carb is a 2150. NOTHING about it is correct for 1966. On the other hand, a used correct 66 2100 would be dirt cheap to obtain and install.
Good point. I didn't notice that at all, as all of them are labeled 2100. Lesson learned today about the differences for sure.
 

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Or just go ahead and swap the intake and carb while it's offline at the shop?
 

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The least expensive route is to just rebuild your existing carb and replace the power valve/gaskets to stop the leaking.

Or...
Or just go ahead and swap the intake and carb while it's offline at the shop?
Since you already have a 4v Edelbrock intake manifold, just get an inexpensive Summit 4 barrel carburetor.

The M2008 series carburetors are based on the original Autolite 4100 design. I've heard good reports about the carb from friends.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I've got the carb. I have an older weiland intake that I need to do some minor work on. Or buy a new intake.
But I also have 2 rebuild kits, and bought the 2b intake to 4b carb adapter as well.
For now, I'm just gonna yank the 2b carb off of it and do a quick cleaning and rebuild.
 

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For now, I'm just gonna yank the 2b carb off of it and do a quick cleaning and rebuild.
The 2100 is still one of the best carbs ever made, easiest to rebuild and most reliable, offering very good performance for a cruiser or streetcar unless you really just need the four barrels. I put my first 4-barrel on whenever I was about 17, not that I really needed it haha but, it's hard to beat that sound when they're all open at a perfectly legal time and place!!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks everyone for all the help. I yanked the carb yesterday and rebuilt it. There was a bunch of algae/varnish smelling fuel in the bowl, and a tear in the diaphram. Now to address that.
 
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