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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well, I've been doing lots and lots of reading, here and elsewhere. It's time to start some basic engine mods.

What I have:
'67 289 C-code. California car and it still has the smog heads. I have freeze plugs in the smog holes. Engine runs quite well. Car has a C4, which shifts pretty well.

What I want:
EFFICIENCY! I love my V8 but this is my daily driver and I work at minimum wage job. Soon I'll be driving it on a 700 mile round trip. I'd like to get my intake upgrades done before then to save some fuel cost. I've heard of 21mpg highway with a stock A-code. That would be great. 15mpg town and 18-20mpg highway is what i'm shooting for. Before you tell me to put a 6 in it, I'm convinced that this is quite achievable with a 289 or a 302.

Eventually this car is going to have a T-5 behind it and 3.50 gearing. I plan on (eventually) picking up some non-california smog heads and port-matching them. New aftermarket heads aren't in the budget.

I'm still running points. But they're set right and seem to be working just fine.

Budget:
Right now I have $400 to play with, so at this time I'm only looking at the manifold and carburetor. Before I pull the trigger, though, I want to know where I'm headed for future engine modifications so I can pick the right carb to start with. I might be able to grab a pertronix setup in this budget.

I do have headers. Not installed yet, and I don't know who made them. I think they are Tri-Ys and I believe they were bought from mustangsunlimited.

I'm getting 9.8mpg last time I measured it. I had a fuel leak where the rubber clamps to the main fuel line at the tank a few months back. After measuring 9.8mpg, I think I need to check it again and be sure it's not leaking.

I'm looking at getting an Autolite 4100. Everything I've read praises them. At first I was set on the 1.08 venturi because it has been noted as a perfect match for the stock 289. I found a core today that I can pick up for $140. I was about to jump on it and match it up with a used Edelbrock Performer intake manifold. I chose the performer because this car is a daily driver and idle-1500 performance is vital. This sounded like the PERFECT way to go for the stock 289.

But I started looking at cams today, and many people, such as 22GT, suggested a 600cfm carburetor with a cam upgrade. That would put me in the realm of this:

Summit Racing SUM-M08600VS - Summit Racing Street & Strip® Carburetors - Application - SummitRacing.com

Which I've read is basically a modified 4100 with 1.12 venturis. The price is fantastic.

So mostly I want to know which carb and cam to aim for. This will be my first engine "build" and I'm looking forward to it.

Thanks a lot!

-Matt
 

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If it's mileage you're after, leave the stock cam in place, use the smaller Summit. Get the distributor recurved to stock, I've never put one on the machine that was correctly adjusted. It's a big deal. Use the Tri-Y's, or at least 289HP manifolds. Use a 289HP air cleaner. Install a thermal clutch fan. Not the cheaper non-thermal clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If it's mileage you're after, leave the stock cam in place, use the smaller Summit. Get the distributor recurved to stock, I've never put one on the machine that was correctly adjusted. It's a big deal. Use the Tri-Y's, or at least 289HP manifolds. Use a 289HP air cleaner. Install a thermal clutch fan. Not the cheaper non-thermal clutch.
Thanks for the advice.

I was about to PM you about distributor recurving. Do you do recurving by mail? I go to school in a college town and I don't know who I could call locally who would do something like that. I'll bust out the phonebook when shops open on Monday, but I'm not very optimistic. Most WSU students drive hondas.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Wait, the "smaller" Summit?

Are you referring to the 600cfm? They don't make a 1.08 480cfm version, do they?
 

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No, the 600 is the smallest. Only hard-core, or old-timers do distributor curve work. You may not find one locally.
 

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If it's mileage you're after, leave the stock cam in place, use the smaller Summit. Get the distributor recurved to stock, I've never put one on the machine that was correctly adjusted. It's a big deal. Use the Tri-Y's, or at least 289HP manifolds. Use a 289HP air cleaner. Install a thermal clutch fan. Not the cheaper non-thermal clutch.
This sounds like some of the bests advise one cold want in the package you are putting together. All I would add is maybe a pertronics upgrade instead of points.
 

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Matt,

I know this isn't exactly up the street from you, but these guys recurved my stock distributor on the old time (Sun?) machine and did an excellent job: Jim Green Maybe you can send your distributor to them.

BTW, I have a stock cast iron 4V manifold I grabbed at a junkyard some time back just because it was there. You can have it for what it cost me ($25) if you pay shipping. I also have a 450 cfm Holley carb w/ vacuum secondaries and electric choke you can have for $100. I had it professionally rebuilt by Joe's Carburetors in Lynnwood a few years ago, but it was a little too small for the 302HO/351W head/roller cam motor in my coupe, so I got a 600 cfm and put this one on the shelf. It's an actual Ford service part meant to replace the 4100-1.08, it even has a Ford part number on it.

PM me if interested, and good luck with your build.

MrFreeze
 

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67 coupe, 69 Sportsroof, 86 hatchback
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Sounds like a deal. In my opinion, for a street driven car the only real difference before an aftermarket low rise dual plane intake and a stock one is that the aftermarkets are aluminum and a lot lighter. Plus it's pretty to swap out again later.
If you take MrFreeze up on his deal, you'd have money left over to get that exhaust done. Once I went from bone stock exhaust on an F100 to true duals, good mufflers, and long tube headers. I noticed a very slight seat of the pants power gain AND I gained almost 2mpg. OK, and it sounded a whole lot better too. I've been very fond of headers ever since.
All things being equal, you can get better mileage swapping from a 2 to 4 barrel carb. The majority of the time you run on the two front barrels which are a lot smaller than those of the two barrel and can be more efficient. Of course as soon as you stomp the pedal and open the secondaries all that efficiency goes out the window.
 

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Hey Matt!

Sounds like where I'm at w/my 289 but I have most of the parts and different options. Just have to find the time and stop picking stuff up and get back to putting all the stuff on the car. I've decided to go w/Edelbrock Performer 1405 carb, Performer RPM intake port matched to a set of '65 289HP heads (can't afford nice aluminum heads) and will probably go for the 289HP or Boss302 style cam but haven't decided on that component yet but know that I want to go a step up from stock to take advantage of all the above and a new 2.5" Magnaflow dual exhaust system. Oh, I am looking for a deal on some good shorty headers, have a set of '86 GT factory ones but would like to find a deal on a set of Hedman Elites or something similar but just can't plop down the $400 for them right now.

I read you were considering an Edelbrock Performer 289 intake, I have one slightly used, almost new if it didn't have a slight hint of gas. Got it w/an almost new 1405 carb mounted on it (that I'm going to use) for a great deal and have since purchased that set of heads and intake mentioned above for another great deal so I won't be using the Performer 289 intake. I've attached a pic of the combo that was taken of it when I got it, the Made in the USA badge still has the protective plastic on it btw. My guess is the PO used it for a dyno run or went a different route and changed it out after a few miles. PM me if you're interested in it. I also have a remanufactured Autolite 4300 carb that was part of the inventory of a huge carb rebuilder on the East Coast that reman'd for GM, Ford and others, would have to dig it out and take it out of its packaging to get the numbers though. They went out of business yrs ago and I bought it from the company that was liquidating that inventory about 2 yrs ago and as mentioned above am going w/the Edelbrock 1405 now so don't need it. Also have a '68 dated J code stock 4v intake that I no longer need but see that you were already offered one of those. Sorry to be pitching some of my stuff here but just wanted to mention in case it might help Matt get more bang for his buck.

Best of luck w/your rebuild Matt! You're at the right place for help here @ the VMF! I know I can't wait to pull my engine and freshen it up along w/C4 rebuild and shift reproggy kit. :)

Oscar
 

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PS, forgot to mention in prev post that I also have a new set of Edelbrock intake bolts to offer up w/the intake as well. I picked an ARP engine accessory kit that includes intake bolts so don't need the Edel ones anymore either. I think I might also have the intake gasket set too from when I picked up all the adapters and stuff I am gonna need to use the Edel carb and intake. PM if there's interest.

Oscar
 

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Hey Matt!

Sounds like where I'm at w/my 289 but I have most of the parts and different options. Just have to find the time and stop picking stuff up and get back to putting all the stuff on the car. I've decided to go w/Edelbrock Performer 1405 carb, Performer RPM intake port matched to a set of '65 289HP heads (can't afford nice aluminum heads) and will probably go for the 289HP or Boss302 style cam but haven't decided on that component yet but know that I want to go a step up from stock to take advantage of all the above and a new 2.5" Magnaflow dual exhaust system. Oh, I am looking for a deal on some good shorty headers, have a set of '86 GT factory ones but would like to find a deal on a set of Hedman Elites or something similar but just can't plop down the $400 for them right now.

I read you were considering an Edelbrock Performer 289 intake, I have one slightly used, almost new if it didn't have a slight hint of gas. Got it w/an almost new 1405 carb mounted on it (that I'm going to use) for a great deal and have since purchased that set of heads and intake mentioned above for another great deal so I won't be using the Performer 289 intake. I've attached a pic of the combo that was taken of it when I got it, the Made in the USA badge still has the protective plastic on it btw. My guess is the PO used it for a dyno run or went a different route and changed it out after a few miles. PM me if you're interested in it. I also have a remanufactured Autolite 4300 carb that was part of the inventory of a huge carb rebuilder on the East Coast that reman'd for GM, Ford and others, would have to dig it out and take it out of its packaging to get the numbers though. They went out of business yrs ago and I bought it from the company that was liquidating that inventory about 2 yrs ago and as mentioned above am going w/the Edelbrock 1405 now so don't need it. Also have a '68 dated J code stock 4v intake that I no longer need but see that you were already offered one of those. Sorry to be pitching some of my stuff here but just wanted to mention in case it might help Matt get more bang for his buck.

Best of luck w/your rebuild Matt! You're at the right place for help here @ the VMF! I know I can't wait to pull my engine and freshen it up along w/C4 rebuild and shift reproggy kit. :)

Oscar
Oscar,
I bet you could sell those 289 HiPo heads and almost get enough to buy a set of aluminum heads.
Careful with your cam selection. That Boss 302 cam was designed around boss heads (Cleveland) and designed to live and breath in the higher RPM range with a steep gear in the rear. And as with the 289HiPo cam, sure you want to go solid lifter?
 

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Oscar,
I bet you could sell those 289 HiPo heads and almost get enough to buy a set of aluminum heads.
Careful with your cam selection. That Boss 302 cam was designed around boss heads (Cleveland) and designed to live and breath in the higher RPM range with a steep gear in the rear. And as with the 289HiPo cam, sure you want to go solid lifter?
Thanks ScottsGT! Guess I could try that, the problem is that they are matched to the Performer RPM intake that I purchased w/them. I was interested in just the heads to begin with (after reading some more about them here recently not sure if I should have but oh well) and the seller said the reason he was selling them w/the intake was due to them all being matched to each other as well as milling the intake to match milling done to the heads. I suppose I can just move that combo altogether and find some good used aluminum heads if not new ones. I know that some of the 289HP guys will pay whatever for original 289HP parts so who knows. In regards to the cam, I'm still researching what to use, I wasn't sure about the Boss302 one and was just pulling that from memory. :loco:

This is one reason I love the VMF and the CaliforniaSpecial.com forums, lots of great peeps offering great help and suggestions. I'll be asking more ?s regarding cam selection as I get closer. Have already been going thru some good search results here too, just alot of em and takes time.

Now, let's get this back to Matt the original poster, sorry bro.

Oscar
 

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i haven't noticed any inefficiency like what your discribing. i dumped a gallon of fuel in the tank of my car (it was empty) drove it out of the garage and left it idling for an hour while i did work (it was cold and it needed to be run) and i still had plenty of gas left in the tank. its a stock 289 2 barrel. try doing a complete tunup if you didnt already
 

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Discussion Starter #14
i haven't noticed any inefficiency like what your discribing. i dumped a gallon of fuel in the tank of my car (it was empty) drove it out of the garage and left it idling for an hour while i did work (it was cold and it needed to be run) and i still had plenty of gas left in the tank. its a stock 289 2 barrel. try doing a complete tunup if you didnt already
Well driving around town for an hour takes more fuel than idling for an hour.

I think I've still got a fuel leak near the tank, and that's why I'm getting 9.8. But honestly, I wouldn't expect more than 13 in town out of one of these stock. My '66 had the same powertrain and it got 12.5 consistently.

Thanks for all the suggestions

-Matt
 

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A couple of things to check if you are looking for efficiency (maybe you have already). Think of the total drive train as a system, not just the motor.

Fresh plugs, wires, air filter, cap and rotor

Proper tire pressure. Keep it on the high side for milage, but you will lose traction (inc braking so don't go too high!)

Some synthetic oils can help. I picked up ~ 1 mpg in my truck with Royal Purple.

Proper alignment

If you have an auto trans, what condition is it in? Slipping bands will kill mileage.
 
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