Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
566 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello All,
I'm rebuilding the steering column on my 1968 coupe and have a broken turn signal cam switch. CJ Pony has a replacement cam for about $15 versus replacing the whole harness for about $120. Has anyone tried this cam switch? Does it fit correctly and work the way it should? Or, should I spend the extra money for the complete harness?

Thanks in advance for your input ~ Lenny B
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
I never heard from anybody that the replacement cam really led to a satisfying result, but never tried it personally.
I always go for the whole harness, which are unfortunately from bad quality, too.
In 9 years I replaced it 3 times.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
I replaced the switch and connector--probably totaled approx $70. So far so good even though its a Scott Drake part (not a fan of this supplier but was the only option I could find).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,134 Posts
I think you're better off buying the whole harness with the cam switch installed. I tried replacing the cam only, and it didn't work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
743 Posts
I replaced the cam, the wire that came with the new cam was 20 gauge, the original wires were 16 if I remember correctly. It worked - but I had significant voltage drop thanks to the splices and thin wire. Turn signals weren't nearly as bright as they had been before. I ended up replacing the whole thing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
566 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the advice guys. I decided to just replace the entire switch and harness. I picked up the Scott Drake stuff from NPD. My car is a 1968 and the new switch and connector were a little different but it should work, or I should be able to make it work. One difference is the new unit has two additional wires. After following them I came to the conclusion this harness is supposed to work with more than one application. Also, the metal one the bottom that rides above the bearing has a step or shoulder to it and the original does not. As for the connector, they appear the same accept for the new one has an extra plastic piece on it. Images below are of original 1968 non-tilt and the Scott Drake reproduction for your comparison. Also, I was able to salvage the original rubber protect sleeve by lightly rubbing/cleaning it with lacquer thinner.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
525 Posts
Nice. I did the same on my 68 with the SD unit. Works perfect. I did have to clean out the track the horn tabs ride in to be smoother when turning the wheel.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top