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Unless you need the additional room under the hood the only "upgrades" I'd recommend would be....
a. "Arning Drop" relocation of the upper control arm mounting holes.
b. Replacement of any worn out components with quality replacements.
c. Heim-jointed strut rods.
d. Biilstein or Koni (Red) shocks.
e. Coil spring choice to match your driving style.
Optionally, if you're going to be driving really hard...
1. Boxed or aftermarket competition control arms.
2. Eccentric eliminator for lower control arm mount.
3. Spherical bearing/bushing lower control arm pivot.
Sure, ADJUSTABLE coilovers that use the original shock towers DO provide the flexibility of being able to change the spring rate without having to pull and replace the coil spring but, after you set it, hardly anyone goes back and ever touches the adjustment again.
All this advice goes out the window if you're building a track car. That requires a careful selection of components that not only work well together but also meet the requirements of the sanctioning body.
a. "Arning Drop" relocation of the upper control arm mounting holes.
b. Replacement of any worn out components with quality replacements.
c. Heim-jointed strut rods.
d. Biilstein or Koni (Red) shocks.
e. Coil spring choice to match your driving style.
Optionally, if you're going to be driving really hard...
1. Boxed or aftermarket competition control arms.
2. Eccentric eliminator for lower control arm mount.
3. Spherical bearing/bushing lower control arm pivot.
Sure, ADJUSTABLE coilovers that use the original shock towers DO provide the flexibility of being able to change the spring rate without having to pull and replace the coil spring but, after you set it, hardly anyone goes back and ever touches the adjustment again.
All this advice goes out the window if you're building a track car. That requires a careful selection of components that not only work well together but also meet the requirements of the sanctioning body.
