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98 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I had originally posted what I planned on doing in the 07' Mustang seats in my 66 thread, but was requested to make my own thread to document the install - so here we go.

Backstory of seats: Purchased these seats from a guy who bought a used 2012 GT (base model) in 2014. He wanted leather in his GT so the dealership he bought them from made him a deal, they'd recover his seats in Katzkin leather if he bought the car. Purchase went through, but 6 or so years later he wanted different seats. I bought them on FB marketplace for $350.

Thanks to @BlakeTX , I had low profile seat tracks that he gave to me ( for the win!) that already had the holes needed drilled out (the 66' seat track holes are 14" apart, 11" front to back)

So to begin, I started on the passenger seat:

1) Remove the (4) grey nuts attached to the black bolts using a 15mm open wrench. You can switch to ratcheting box wrench after you break them loose


You have to slide the wrench under the seat to get to the nuts - bolts are pressed in and cannot be removed

2) Unclip/remove any of the sensors you can. DO NOT pull/cut the connector shown in red. I did - and I immediately regretted it. This is the passenger side airbag weight sensor. It is connected to a pressurized bladder filled with clear goo that immediately went everywhere. I ended up squeezing it all out but it would have been easier to just zip tie to the frame.

3) Next measure 14" across the top of the frame. I found out that 3/4" to the left/right side of the smaller holes gets you centered up and 14" across for the seat tracks. If you want to cheat the seat depth more (meaning, if you want it the seat further back from the steering wheel) - move your holes close to the top of the seat frame, but be careful to not get right on the edge. I felt this was giving me plenty of space.

4) Drill pilot hole with small bit and then drill out larger hole with 11/32 bit


5) Before attaching, this is an excellent time to make sure your seat track holes are 11" apart. Apologies for my 5 year olds toes being in the photo, he helped hold the tape measure.

6) To save you some headache, I highly recommend pre-installing your floor bolts if you are running a low profile bracket like this. If you are using your standard 1966 seat tracks, I don't think this applies as they are welded/permanently attached. The best way for me was to manually extend the seat track up/down and install the bolt and securing with a nut so it wouldn't flop around:

7) Slide the seat track down to reveal the mounting hole for the top of the seat, bolt it in using a lock washer and nut on the underside (where you originally unbolted the OEM nuts). Then slide the track up to reveal the hole for the bottom of the seat. Level the seat track and then drill out the hole based on where the seat tracks hole is.


8) Secure lower hole with lock washer, nut and bolt.
9) Rip whatever hair you have left out trying to get (4) somewhat wobbly bolts into (4) different holes in your seat pan. Secure from underside with large washer, lock bolt and nut.

10) Quit for the day, as you've probably been on your knees/back on a concrete floor for far too long. Sit in your passenger seat, enjoy the comfyness and remind yourself now you are committed to doing the drivers side.

(Part 2 coming)
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98 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Part 2:

11) The drivers side is different from passenger in that:
A) There is no pressurized bladder of goo
B) The seat track has manual raise and lower handle that unfortunately can not be implemented (in my case).

To remove the the handle, pop the cap off using a flat blade screwdriver, remove the two screws holding the handle to the raising mechanism, re-use the cap to plug the hole where the handle was - Thank you Ford for being smart about this.



12) Remove the seat bolts the same way as the passenger seat, open end wrench first, then ratcheting box end later.

13) Zip tie the seatbelt sensor to the frame (it runs the length of the bolster, didn't want to cut)


14) Drill the holes the same way as the passenger side and pre-install your floor pan bolts


15) Bolt top bolt to the top of the seat frame, manually slide the seat rail up to reveal the lower bolt - drill out and attach like the passenger side


16) Now comes the fun part - For some reason, the drivers side would not let me actuate the seat rail handle. It was bumping into the seat frame. I got out a cutting disk and cut out about a 1/2" section of the seat frame. Handle now actuates the seat rails


17) I did not notch out my passenger side seat as no one should be going full ham into the backseat, but for the driver (me - 6' 2") I wanted the option in case only one kid is in the back on the opposite side. CAREFULLY notch out where the seat rail comes in contact with the seat plastic


17) Install seat as before, with much anger and frustration with wobbling seat bolts and carpet that just seems to not like you.

98 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Final result:






I have sooooo much room now. It is stupid.

My legs don't even come close to touching the bottom of my steering wheel. Before this I had to install a 13" Grant steering wheel just so I could get in the car. My head has at least 3-4 inches from the roof. The ratcheting headrests are amazing, I can cruise down the road literally resting my head on the seat and still be sitting properly straight.

The suede in the inserts gives added friction in addition to the side bolsters. Best of all, they will match nicely with my 66' rear bench seat in standard vinyl (same horizontal line pattern and spacing)

494 Posts
Looks good, I like it!

211 Posts
Thanks for the detailed write up. Those seats look great in your car.
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