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Discussion Starter #1
I am looking for clever ideas how to clean water and oil channels on engine block.
I did a mistake and did not clean it after disassembly, due to time and weather engine was directly delivered for grinding.
Yesterday I have pick it up from engine shop and before I would assembly it again I need to paint it and clean those oil and water channels.

My idea is to protect cylinders by some rags and put some anti-rust fluid for some time, then some solvent. Also maybe it will good to use pressure washer ?
Then remove dust and old paint to prepare for painting.
Any hints ?

748179
 

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Looks clean already, most machine shops clean them before they go out but one way to tell is, are the core plugs in the oil galleys? Are there freeze plugs installed?
Summit has a engine cleaning brushes that are long and can get in those oil galleys..
I Have used mineral spirits in a large tub, but now I just pay the extra and have them clean it are install all the plugs.
 

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Just because the cylinders are shiny from honing, more than likely they are not completely cleaned of small debris. Never trust that a block that comes from a machine shop is 100% clean and ready for assembly.

I scrub my block using dissolved powdered Tide and lots of water. I also use the engine cleaning brushes like mentioned above and do a thorough rinsing. As soon as the water is turned off I use compressed air to quickly dry the block. Just as quickly I spray all the machined surfaces with WD40, which is a water displacement.

Once dry and before I am ready to assemble the block I use clean lint free rags and a little ATF and go about cleaning the cylinder bores. It may take multiple attempts in each cylinder in order to get them fully cleaned. You should still use a light coat of oil on the bores before installing the pistons/rings. I use lacquer thinner on other machined surfaces to clean them prior to assembly.
 

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Based on the picture it is hard to see how much work the water and oil galleys need. The end of the lifter valley seems to be very dirty. This must be cleaned. I usually use carb cleaner to clean and later apply the non-aerosol version of WD40 to avoid corrosion.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Looks clean already, most machine shops clean them before they go out but one way to tell is, are the core plugs in the oil galleys? Are there freeze plugs installed?
Summit has a engine cleaning brushes that are long and can get in those oil galleys..
I Have used mineral spirits in a large tub, but now I just pay the extra and have them clean it are install all the plugs.
Yes all plugs are untouched. Engine shop did just they work, they told me that they will clean all parts in general, but they will not clean channel by channel.
Small brushes is good idea, I will try to buy such items locally.
Do I need to remove those plugs ? I have bought new in advance, but I am not sure if I will remove them I will be able to do in same way as factory did.

Pop all the plugs, try PurplePower or spray on oven cleaner.
Yep, there are also specific fluids to clean engine (they remove old oil stains), I had a plan to put them as well.

I scrub my block using dissolved powdered Tide and lots of water
That's interesting, I always thought that those kind of things are to weak for metal parts :). I can use active foam which is used before pressure washing. Some of them are quite intensive.

Based on the picture it is hard to see how much work the water and oil galleys need. The end of the lifter valley seems to be very dirty. This must be cleaned. I usually use carb cleaner to clean and later apply the non-aerosol version of WD40 to avoid corrosion.
It's hard to make picture inside those channels :). It looks that they clean it in some automatic/manual washer, so most of the dirt and wider carbon deposit was removed, but some thinner are still there. That's not the problem I will clean it, since access is easy.
Later I will use antyrust spray/WD40 for those areas like channels and oil for cylinders to avoid a rust. The plan is to assembly an engine in coming days.
 

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and finally done :), will just clean it and will be ready for assembly:

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I used a pressure washer and oven cleaner and dawn dish detergent and a wire brush for the outside and channel brushes for all the water ports and galleries and replace all the oil and freeze plugs.

While you have it apart maybe port match the heads, maybe add threaded rocker studs and any other valve work you want.
 

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Although you'll have to refresh the block, while it's still bare, you might consider "chamfering" the oil return holes in the valley pan. It'll reduce any tendency for any oil to "puddle" on its return to the pan. Also, cleanup of the opening in the front near the distributor drive might be in order. I did all of these details and then some. No, there has not been any signs of the "Glyptal 1201" flaking.
 

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