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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What is the best way to clean rust? This is too heavy to clean with a wire brush but not pitted or rotted enough to warrant replacement. I have 3M green roloc discs part number 01406 here at work. They are 50 grit but I am worried they will eat the metal rather than clean it up. TIA
 

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hand held sand blaster. they make small ones for working on models, if its a small area you could get a mini sand blaster from micromark.
 

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The 3M disks that are black about 1/2 thick.

They work well, actually the same style but no 3M sold at Home Depot and other Hardware stores even work better to me. I love those disks.
 

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Jim Carrol said:
hand held sand blaster. they make small ones for working on models, if its a small area you could get a mini sand blaster from micromark.
Jim, you want to go into a little more detail?
 

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Pat,

I thought you were going to send the car off to get blasted?

Dave
 

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Sure:


http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=60287

its basically a miniature sand blaster, i use it on a small area to make less of a mess if i'm working inside. i mean its dumb if your attempting an entire panel but, i did my dashboard and interior trim with it in my basement when it was -15 outside. it got into all the fine details. would work great on the lower part of the doors that have texture. its just less mess if your working in a small area, i have a reducer hooked up to my shop compressor to use it.

i also use it for modeling and my r/c cars
 

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I had the most success with this wire wheel attached to an angle grinder. Did both outer aprons (heavy surface rust) and the front side of the raditor support with them. I've since decided to have the whole car blasted....
 

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That little sucker may end up on my Christmas list to myself!
 

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This may have already been mentioned, A friend of mine sent me this yesterday Link
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Dave,
I am blasting the car but I am leary of having the car in the air with the lower cowl 1/2 out and the upper cowl off plus all of the other sheet metal that is off. So my plan was to get the cowl welded back in for some extra strength. Good plan? Or am I worrying too much?
 

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After you wire wheel it, there is a rust neutraizer/converter available at automotive paint stores. Don't remember what it's called, but it seems to work.
 

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fast68back said:
This may have already been mentioned, A friend of mine sent me this yesterday Link
so rick, how many gallons of "evapo-rust" do you think napa guy will need to get his car fullly submersed? :lol:
 

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STANG32 said:
fast68back said:
This may have already been mentioned, A friend of mine sent me this yesterday Link
so rick, how many gallons of "evapo-rust" do you think napa guy will need to get his car fullly submersed? :lol:
I think he would need to cut the car into small pieces to save money.... }:|
 

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Unles it is 100% blasted, cut or acid eaten out, the rust will never sleep. It is literally like cancer or a cavity in a tooth. The porous rust will not be filled in with primer and it will create a microscopic cavity of air that will condense moisture and rust again. Wire brushing, grinding, etc only gets the upper most surface of the rust. If you are looking for a permement solution, that is not the way to go.
 

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From the evaporust website

"We recommend utilizing EVAPO-RUST at a bath temperature above 60° F."

napaguy will need a big tub too - and maybe a wet suit - 60° sounds a bit nippy to me....

:)
 

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ABOVE 60, NOT @ 60, IT CAN WORK WELL AT 70 OR 90.
BUT YOU WILL NEED A POOL OR LARGE HOT TUB, MY GUESS.
ACTUALLY THINK ABOUT IT, A HOT TUB WOULD BE IDEAL THE EVAPORRUST SHOOTING OUT OF THE JETS BLASTING AGAINST THE PANELS, OOOOOHHH, LIKE A SPA TREATMENT FOR YOUR CAR
 
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