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1966 Ford Mustang
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there,

I'm rebuilding my Mustang after two years of work on the body (66 coupe, manual transmission) and the engine (289ci V8)... And I need your help!

I'm trying to reconnect the clutch cable but I'm not able to find a good schema for that, neither on the Internet, or in my books... If I understand well what I found on the web, the clutch cable passed above the oil filter before being connected to the clutch? But how is it attached to the clutch?

Thanks for your help.

Have a great day!
 

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A '66 had mechanical linkage for the clutch from the factory. Your cable setup are homemade or something aftermarket. You probably need to show pics of what parts you got, for anyone to be able to help you.
 

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1966 Ford Mustang
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Westmus, you are absolutely right. Thank you for your answer.
Here some pictures of what I have done until now (the cable is misplaced - because I didn't pass it above the filter yet).

774287

774288

774289

774290


774291
 

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We need help from the cable conversion guys, I'm not not one of those. But to me it looks all wrong. A cable conversion require a special cowl bracket, a modified pedal and I believe the cable also need to enter the cowl above the booster. Looking at cable conversion kits for sale on the web may help you.
 

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I agree. It looks like the cable is going through way to low on the firewall. How is it attached to the clutch pedal?
 

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1966 Ford Mustang
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi and thank you for your replies.
I bought the Mustang with this configuration but I think it was an automatic transmission when this baby was built.
So, I just check, the cable is linked to the passenger side clutch pedal (I attach a picture to illustrate my message).
How should it be from the factory?

774379
 

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That does not look right. Can you get a picture showing more of the clutch pedal bracket that the cable is attached to? That does not look like it will pull the cable much off at all.
 

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1966 Ford Mustang
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It's not easy to have a clear picture of that area, but I can try at least :)
Let me know if you think I can get better pictures, I'll try again.

PS: Oh sorry, I just noticed that I misplaced A and B on the first picture IMG_2413.jpg (A is B, and B is A).
 

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I’m not familiar with this set up but as it sits right now it will only in the 12 to 6 o’clock position. Meaning it’s only going to pull straight down. You need it to pull from the firewall towards the back seat.

It looks like some one has fabricated an arm that attaches to the opposite side of the clutch arm. And on my stock 65/66 pedal assembly there is no room on the main shaft to attach a secondary arm like to have pictured. My guess is the bolt that appears to be holding tour bracket on needs to be removed and then see if you can rotate that arm 90 degrees or towards 12 o’clock. Right it’s sitting at 3 o’clock. Once it’s at the vertical position it will pull on the cable.

Your next hurdle is to reinforce the firewall mounting area. That’s if the bracket/arm can even be rotated up. But as it sits nowwith those two issues it will never work.
 

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It have to be something homemade, I don't remember ever to have seen any other Mustang with a cable attached to that end of the pedal shaft. You can try to make it work on you own, or buy one of the cable conversion kits available at most shops that sell parts for vintage Mustangs. If you want to do it with the orignal vintage style linkage you will also need a new fork and throw-out bearing in the bell housing. What you have is the modern style designed for cable.
 

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1966 Ford Mustang
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi guys and thanks for your support!
I'm not sure to understand what are my options here so I will try to write it down.

As you said, it seems that my transmission is not an original Ford Mustang one. Like a lot of other pieces (the engine, for example, was a 351ci V8 - taken from a junk yard or wherever - when I bought the car).
I can surely buy a conversion kit but I just put 10 or 15 grands in this baby, in addition to the cost of the car (the rear axle, the tank and the transmission are the only things I didn't change); and I just want to stop the bleeding from my wallet :).
Westmus, you said that I can "try to make it work on [my] own" and I think that it's the option I will choose (for now, at least) because it was working before I change the engine and disassembled all the accessories in the engine bay.

In any case, I sincerely thank you for your help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hello, I'm back with more pictures.
Here is how the arm looks when I pull the clutch pedal:
776315


And here when I push it completely:
776316


It looks like some one has fabricated an arm that attaches to the opposite side of the clutch arm. And on my stock 65/66 pedal assembly there is no room on the main shaft to attach a secondary arm like to have pictured. My guess is the bolt that appears to be holding tour bracket on needs to be removed and then see if you can rotate that arm 90 degrees or towards 12 o’clock. Right it’s sitting at 3 o’clock. Once it’s at the vertical position it will pull on the cable.
I tried to rotate the arm but I can't, it has a rectangle-shaped hole, and I can't install it at 9 o'clock, this thing (the wipers switch?) is on the way:
776317


Here is how it looks on the clutch (without the bolts), with the pedal pulled the thread ends exactly on the clutch fork:
776318


And the bolts I have, the two big ones have a thread inside but I don't have something matching?
776319
776320


I believe the cable jacket is correctly placed now, both ends fit neatly inside the firewall and the clutch bracket. With the cable looking too long either I misplaced the pedal arm, or I don't know how the bolts are supposed to be assembled.
 

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Hello, I'm back with more pictures.
Here is how the arm looks when I pull the clutch pedal:
View attachment 776315

And here when I push it completely:
View attachment 776316



I tried to rotate the arm but I can't, it has a rectangle-shaped hole, and I can't install it at 9 o'clock, this thing (the wipers switch?) is on the way:
View attachment 776317

Here is how it looks on the clutch (without the bolts), with the pedal pulled the thread ends exactly on the clutch fork:
View attachment 776318

And the bolts I have, the two big ones have a thread inside but I don't have something matching?
View attachment 776319 View attachment 776320

I believe the cable jacket is correctly placed now, both ends fit neatly inside the firewall and the clutch bracket. With the cable looking too long either I misplaced the pedal arm, or I don't know how the bolts are supposed to be assembled.

JUST so we are clear----- This cable stuff is NOT factory to your year car ! On top of that, any cable add on kit that I have seen has more parts to it than what you have there.
 

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1965 2+2 Vintage Burgundy A-code C4
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Look at MustangSteve’s site
 

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I've never seen a cable conversion done this way, and I can't say I like it.

In my opinion, the best clutch cable conversion available is the unit from MustangSteve. A primary component of this swap is the cable stop at the firewall that the cable plugs into. That is the main feature that I see missing in your situation, and it acts as both a spacer (so the cable isn't too long) and as a way to spread the force of the load across the firewall. In it's intended position, it ties into the cowl flange at the top of the firewall, making it very sturdy.

Additionally, there is an adjustable version that lets you dial in the engagement point of the clutch without having to crawl under it.

If I were in your position (at the end of the budget and just want it working so I can enjoy it), I would either just buy the piece and find a way to secure it (like fabbing little L brackets to mount it) or fabricate the whole thing to get the job done.

 

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Now I have to admit that I have thought about designing something that would mount to the opposite side of the pedal. At least on my 66 I would gain more room. My last cable conversion I did was on my old 65 fastback. This was about the time MS came out with his design.

As for your setup it’s clearly someone’s custom one off attempt at making their own conversion. To me it doesn’t look like it has enough travel to even disengage the clutch. If it does it sure looks like it would require more pedal effort given the angle it’s pulling at. If the arm on the pedal could be pointed straight up it would have a much better mechanical advantage.

It also looks like you have a couple of spacers to take up the extra slack in the cable length. The cone shaped one would sit against the clutch fork and the other spacers just make up for the extra length.

If you have enough cable travel and it works then I myself would see how it works and how long it lasts before something fails but only if I felt the pedal effort wasn’t to great. To be safe I would do as others have suggested and just get the MS conversion kit and then you won’t have any worries about it failing.
 

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It'd probably be easier (and cheaper) to simply buy the "correct" cable conversion set-up. The only way I can see to make this work, effectively, would be to have some fixtures for holding the cable securely at the firewall and transmission, to "flip" the arm attached to the clutch pedal shaft so it's pointing down and rearward and have some type of "scissor" mounted so it pulls the cable.

776404
 
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