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Discussion Starter #1
After installing my motor/trans together (289/4 speed), I believe that the clutch fork has slipped off the throw out bearing but am not sure. I went to install the adjustable rod underneath that runs to the clutch fork and it just falls out, there's not tension on the clutch fork...? I've researched and read as much as possible but I don't know where the "tension" on the clutch fork should start, I'm assuming the clutch fork would sit at the most furthest position toward the front of the car? How much pressure would be on this clutch fork, would I be able to "engage" it by hand if it were all hooked up correctly?
thank you in advance


also, it had a new clutch/pressure plate/throw out bearing installed at the time of the engine rebuild ( I did not install any of these)
 
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You absolutely would not be able to apply enough force by hand to engage and therefore release the pressure plate.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You absolutely would not be able to apply enough force by hand to engage and therefore release the pressure plate.
I didn't think I would be able to... the clutch fork moves freely as it is right now...I would almost describe it as floppy. I'm guessing the only way to address this problem is to remove the trans/bell housing? Would there be a scenario I'm describing that the trans/bell housing would not have to be removed
 

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There are a few different "styles" of clutch forks and how they mount to the bell housing and throwout bearing. You may get lucky and be able to get the fork into the throw out bearing and seated in the bell housing correctly by spending some time fishing around. You need to see what parts you have. Below are some pictures of common forks for these cars, Hopefully you can see what you have and how they go together. Keep asking questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
There are a few different "styles" of clutch forks and how they mount to the bell housing and throwout bearing. You may get lucky and be able to get the fork into the throw out bearing and seated in the bell housing correctly by spending some time fishing around. You need to see what parts you have. Below are some pictures of common forks for these cars, Hopefully you can see what you have and how they go together. Keep asking questions.
the throw out bearing has the clips like the first picture. It's an early 65 mustang but I'm pretty sure that the trans is from a 66.
 
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You can see inside if you look hard enough. If you have a rubber boot, remove it. Look for the clips at the bearing and look for the pivot ball on the other side of the fork.
 

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Now you need to see what fork you have and what mount is in the bellhousing. Like Pete said, it's on the trans side of fork. The pivot point could be like the 2 pics I showed or could be something else. Also check to make sure the fork is correct for the style of mount. (wire vs spring metal tongue, and etc.)
 

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There is going to be some free play in the fork. The clutch is fully engaged as is. Once you apply pressure to the fork, then the clutch will be disengaged. You will not be able to apply enough force by hand to the fork to disengage as Pete said. Could you be mistaken the free play as the fork not connected? There won't be a lot.

Even if everything is, perfect the push rod could fall out. That's why there is a return spring to keep tension on. The spring goes from the fork to just below the LCA bolt on the frame, at least on 66. Maybe some pictures or clip?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I can take the clutch fork and pull it back towards the rear of the car by hand easily. I can pull it back far enough that with the clutch pedal all the way up in the car, the adjustable rod cannot reach the clutch fork even in it's most adjusted out, longest state. I will get pictures tonight and if possible, a video
 
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I can take the clutch fork and pull it back towards the rear of the car by hand easily. I can pull it back far enough that with the clutch pedal all the way up in the car, the adjustable rod cannot reach the clutch fork even in it's most adjusted out, longest state. I will get pictures tonight and if possible, a video
Then it's doing nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sorry for the delay but wanted to follow up with what was going on with this situation, see if anyone else had this happen? When I compared the bottom adjustable clutch rod that I took off the car and the clutch rod I ordered new, the older rod has been modified in order to add length, probably a good 1.5-2 inches longer than the "factory spec" rod I got from a vendor. When I put "original" rod back on the car, it gave me enough length to fully push in the clutch fork and engage the clutch. Is this a problem anyone else has encountered? The car is a 64.5 convertible and to the best of my knowledge the motor/trans/clutch linkage/etc... is from a 66?
 
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You must have some mismatched parts there, not unlike another recent thread.
 

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You must have some mismatched parts there, not unlike another recent thread.
Mismatched parts was all I could figure as well, I just don't know which ones are mismatched because I don't know for sure what parts came from where, all I know is the bits and pieces that dad remembers from 30-40 years ago
As long as everything is functional, I'm not worried about it being concours correct....
 
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Mismatched parts was all I could figure as well, I just don't know which ones are mismatched because I don't know for sure what parts came from where, all I know is the bits and pieces that dad remembers from 30-40 years ago
As long as everything is functional, I'm not worried about it being concours correct....
Can you supply pics?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Can you supply pics?
yes I can over the weekend.
talked to dad today and found out that the clutch and brake pedal assembly got pulled from a 68 model... I'm guessing that's where the difference comes in but I can't confirm there's any difference?
 
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