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Discussion Starter #1
Well I finished putting the 3 spd tranny in my 6cyl and now when I start it up the tranny is engaged even with the clutch fully depressed.&*^%$!!!!
I have adjusted it it to all extremes and no help at all.
I need to know if the rod from the release lever to the equalizer bar on that model is supposed to be the solid type or the threaded type.
When I first got the car it had the adjustable type, and when it broke and fell off one time, I ordered a new one I was shipped the solid type which was shorter,I installed it adjusted the play and never thought about it again.
Now I wonder if that is my problem or if I did something else in error.
I have already posted in the past 2 days about the clutch install and I am pretty sure that all went in as it was supposed to.
Any ideas or tips are greatly appreciated.
Thank you.

1965 Mustang coupe
1961 Thunderbird
1983 Monte Carlo Conv.
Yeah, thats right...Convertible!!
 

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How much shorter was the new rod than the old one?? Probably hard to say since it ended up on the road somewhere...*G*

All I can say is that the pressure plate fingers are never more shallow than when everything is new....as everything wears, they push back more and more on the throwout bearing and fork....

Question: what do you use now to set your throwout bearing freeplay (aka clutch pedal freeplay) since the threaded rod is gone?...is the pivot stud on the bellhousing somehow adjustable?

Did you check your new throwout bearing against the old one for consistency?

Tell me what happens if you put the car in first, depress the clutch, and try to crank the engine....

I'm stalling for time until the manual trans gurus get here...*G*

Pat
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Could be the length of the rod, but you'd notice that the pedal is a lot lower if the rod were way too short.

I'd check two other possibilities. First, is the release bearing properly situated on the fork and is the fork propely sitting on the pivot?

Second, could you have installed the disc the wrong way? There is a side that has to go toward the engine and a side toward the pressure plate. Installing the disc backward can cause the disc to bind against the flywheel and not release (and often makes a heckuva noise).

Jack Collins
1966 Mustang Coupe
250 Aussie Crossflow / T-5

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Discussion Starter #4
The only adjustment point on this car is the threaded rod coming off the clutch pedal under the hood where the equalizer bar attaches.
In catalogs the solid rod is listed at 6 5/16" and the threaded rod is listed at 7 7/8".
I dont know if that is the length fully extended or fully retracted though. Maybe Scott from NPD can help if he reads this.
I also don't know if the tranny is the original or out of a newer stang (66-67) They call for the adjustable rod.
My pedal has no resistance at all.

1965 Mustang coupe
1961 Thunderbird
1983 Monte Carlo Conv.
Yeah, thats right...Convertible!!
 

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Some vital info is missing here. Does the release arm move properly when you opperate the pedal?

If so, remove the rod from the release arm and manualy push it towards the rear of the car until it comes against resistance. That's where the clutch is contacting the TO bearing. At that point, where does the rod fall in comparison? It should be very close to right. If not, the arm is too short.

I would want to go with the adjustable rod anyway, just for the convenience of adjusting it at the bellhousing where you can see what's going on.

Hal
Love hard, drive fast, wear your seat belt.

PS, that's my 'bird...... My Mustang is too ugly to take pictures of yet........*G*.

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Pedal has no resistance at all? You're probably not even moving the pressure plate. Sort of sounds like you need the longer (and adjustable) rod, since you should really feel the pressure with an old z-bar set-up.

Dang! Just when I got used to being "strange", I became a "newbie". Now I'm a "tire kicker"....thump, thump.....he he
 
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The question is.....
Is it an adjustment problem only, and every mechanical part is correct and correctly installed?????
OR
Is it a parts and/or installation problem?????

I would find a way (i.e. source out) a long enough bar to fully depress the pressure plate arms. Either this or just fabricate some mechanism to achieve full throw. This will answer the question whether it is adjustment or mechanical.
If you cannot get the clutch to disengage, you'd better pull it apart. Perhaps you have the wrong parts. Are you sure the parts you ordered exactly matched the parts removed? Are you sure the parts ordered are for the correct year for the assembly (in case it differs from the year of the vehicle)?? You know...... some times people do switch drivetrains.
Lastly, are you certain that there is no bind between the tranny input shaft and the crank pilot bushing. Perhaps there's some sort of direct drive thing happening here.
 

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I was thinking....is it possible to remove either the inspection cover or throwout lever boot and peer inside there while a buddy pushes on the clutch pedal....

I would imagine you have an intimate understanding of what's in there since you just replaced everything...

Watch carefully what the pivot fork and throwout bearing do....they shouldn't move much (maybe 1/2"-5/8") but the throwout bearing should nearly touch the pressure plate fingers before pushing on the pedal...

Boy, I'm glad the calvary is finally here....*G*...you'll have this licked in no time!

Pat
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1570936&a=11937754&p=42910787.jpg
 

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Hi, I ordered clutch parts one time and they sent me a throwout bearing that was about 1" shorter than original if this is what happened to you you will never get enough adjustmentlook up inside with a flashlight and see how far the throw out bearing is from the pressure plate that should tell you what is going on it could still be the clutch plate is in backwards though. John

Opal frost pearl metallic 67 coupe http://www.jps.net/binay/webdocs/febef75b01.JPG
also have a 95 opal frost pearl G/T BOSS edition convertible belongs to swmbo
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The clutch plate is DEFINITELY in properly and the parts I replaced seemed to match what I took out,although I did not compare the throwout bearing heights.
I wonder if your t/o brng theory could be my problem? Sounds feasible.

1965 Mustang coupe
1961 Thunderbird
1983 Monte Carlo Conv.
Yeah, thats right...Convertible!!
 
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Pull off the rubber boot and look inside at the clutch fork with the bearing riding on it. You should be able to push back against the fork with your hand and watch the TO bearing come up against the pressure plate.

My vote goes for the bar being too short; if you're not feeling any pressure at all in the pedal then you're not even contacting the pressure plate. I can't imagine even a wrong TO bearing being so small as to not even butt up against the pressure plate. On my tranny, with a new disc & pp installed, my adjustable rod only has a few threads left on it to give enough free play. I didn't know that about the relaxing of the fingers like camachinist said, but it makes sense. If you need the maximum distance out of the bar when everything's new, it's quite possible that you just don't have enough length.

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I'll throw a wrench in the works with the following:
The correct rod for a 65 6cyl is 5 7/16" long. It is not available. I usually suggest using the Ford 66 adjustable rod as it can be shortened to the 5 7/16" length ( the repro cannot be shortened this much). Or take the 65 8 cyl rod and trim it down.
But for you it seems you do not have enough rod. I would suggest loosening the upper rod and start the adjustment process from scratch. Once the clutch is adjusted to specs one of two things will happen. It will work or it won't;) If it doesn't you'll need to look inside the bellhousing for problems. While I'm thinking about it check to make sure the release fork is correct for your car. All 8 cyl. and late 66 6 cyl. are different than yours. I'm not concerned about the late 6 cyl but the 8 cyl may screw things up.
The difference in rods from 65 to 66 shifted the adjustment from the top to below where it is more convienient.

Scott
National Parts Depot
1965 Conv:Street driven concours
1966 Coupe: Daily driver and toy
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hi Scott,
Glad you wrote as I had a question about the rods.
I originally had the adjustable rod on this car and was shipped a stationary as that was "what the catalog called for"
My rod coming off the pedal is the 16" threaded and I have the adjustment all the way out towards the front.This is also where it was on the old clutch.
Now I am sure that I had to adjust it there when I was shipped the stationary rod a few years back.
Why is a 65 and 66 different? Maybe my tranny is out of a 66, How can I tell?
I am still very confident that I have the pp & disc and all related items installed correctly.
Do you have the adjustable rod in stock? If so please call me at work.
Rob
Mercedes of Cincinnati
1-800-966-1580

1965 Mustang coupe
1961 Thunderbird
1983 Monte Carlo Conv.
Yeah, thats right...Convertible!!
 

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I missed you at work today. You were out to lunch the first time and on way home the second. I'll try again tomorrow.
Or call me at 800-521-6104

Scott
National Parts Depot
1965 Conv:Street driven concours
1966 Coupe: Daily driver and toy
 
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