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Discussion Starter #1
As posted before, I am still having trouble with my 1965 3spd 6-cylinder. I initially started the job because of t/o bearing noise. I put the trans back in for the second time tonight after assuring all new parts matched the old (plate, disc, t/o bearing and pilot bearing). Problem is on depressing clutch pedal fully to floor, it will not go into gear until I release up on the pedal a little bit. Also at the same time, I still have the bearing noise I had initially and can physically see the clutch fork hopping and vibrating. I noticed also that the adjustable rod coming off of the equalizer and going to the clutch fork does not go straight back parallel to the car, but veers to the right. Is this correct, and if not, any ideas? It looks as if the clutch fork actually needs to be about two inches longer for this to be a straight shot. This is the original clutch fork that has been in the car since I purchased it, but that does not mean it is correct. Does anyone know how long a 6 cylinder clutch fork should be? Also, the clutch pedal does not come up even with the brake pedal, but sits lower even when fully retracted. I believe this is because the clutch support under the dash needs rebuilt. Is this a tough job, and could this be causing my clutch problems (not shifting and noisy t/o bearing)? Any and all suggestions would be appreciated, as even though my car looks great on jack-stands,
 

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Sorry to hear that after the second removal. It sounds to me like the pressure plate was damaged in the first go-around, and likely the TO bearing also. If the fingers on the PP are bent, the TO will still try to follow and will wobble and that in turn will shake the TO arm.

Are you sure the TO bearing is what's making the noise? Did you replace/inspect/ lube the pilot shaft bushing when you did the job?

Hal
Love hard, drive fast, wear your seat belt.

PS, that's my 'bird...... My Mustang is too ugly to take pictures of yet........*G*.

http://www.teleport.com/~cosa/bird2.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Actually, I replaced pilot bushing with pilot bearing, as the bushing was totally egg-shaped and the roller bearing seemed like a better setup. As far as the PP,I did notice the 3 fingers were all at different heights when I took the new one back out. But, comparing it to the old one the fingers on it were also at different heights. I did notice on the new clutch disc that one or more of the fingers had gotten down far enough to actually scrape the metal clutch disc backing.

1965 Mustang coupe
1961 Thunderbird
1983 Monte Carlo Conv.
Yeah, thats right...Convertible!!
 

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Most of the time a pressure plate will have a little uneveness to the finger hight when it is not bolted to the flywheel, that is normal and is caused by the stops being uneven in the unloaded position. They MUST, however, be even when it is bolted down to the flywheel with the disc installed. Uneveness in this condition is an indication that either the disc is uneven on thickness, (seen that before), or the PP is damaged somehow.

As far as the PSB is concerned, that's a great swap to install a bearing instead of the bushing as long as the dimentions are the same.

You can check weather it's the PSB or the TO making the noise by going through this procedure; Step down on the clutch just far enough to release the clutch and then let back up to where it engauges. If the noise is still present, it's the TO or the input bearing on the trans. This is because the PSB is turning at the same speed inside and out because the trans input shaft is locked to the flywheel through the clutch when engauged. If the noise starts when you release the clutch, it's the PSB.

Hal
Love hard, drive fast, wear your seat belt.

PS, that's my 'bird...... My Mustang is too ugly to take pictures of yet........*G*.

http://www.teleport.com/~cosa/bird2.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When I bolted the PP down, the fingers were all even,I maesured. What it does is so strange, when the pedal is fully depressed to the floor the clutch is allowing the rear wheels to just start hopping(car is on jack stands)noise is present,and it will not go into gear smoothly(clutch feels slightly engaged ),however if you slightly release pedal, noise stops,wheels stop, and car will shift smoothly (clutch seems disengaged) Complete opposite of normal. But of course it can not be driven this way,nor would I ever try!!
The sun is a shinin' and I wanna'take my baby for a ride........ This REALLY is making me crazy!!

1965 Mustang coupe
1961 Thunderbird
1983 Monte Carlo Conv.
Yeah, thats right...Convertible!!
 

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Do you think it's possible that the linkage is adjusted TOO far in and the TO arm is pushing into the clutch to the point that it contacts the rotating PP? Didn't you adjust this linkage after the first go-round? This might be as simple as backing off on the adjustment a few turns? That will effectively put the clutch at the same place it would be at when the pedal is backed off a bit like you said and everthing sounds/works right.

Hal
Love hard, drive fast, wear your seat belt.

PS, that's my 'bird...... My Mustang is too ugly to take pictures of yet........*G*.

http://www.teleport.com/~cosa/bird2.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have adjusted until the clutch seems to work properly (maybe engages a little too soon on release) and as I push the pedal in and out WITHOUT touching the adjustment the problem pops up again,bizarre...
Now I wonder if the clutch pedal support bracket is so worn that it is actually moving enough to cause this.
That would kinda' explain why it happened even after not touching the adjustment.
I also found out that the bracket that holds the equalizer bar to the frame rail had worked its way loose which is why the adjustment rod did not line up with the clutch fork.Thats fine now.
I guess I am gonna' hafta' take the clutch support out and rebuild it.Looks like a bear to do. Ever done one?

1965 Mustang coupe
1961 Thunderbird
1983 Monte Carlo Conv.
Yeah, thats right...Convertible!!
 
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