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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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I This photo is looking from the top, down onto the rod with the last of the threads pointing out towards the front of the car. She’s a 66 with a 4 speed toploader and a old school mechanical clutch. My question is the fact that the nut is all the way towards the end of the rod mean that this clutch has been adjusted as far as it can and no longer adjustable? While at a stop sign unless I really push the pedal to floor with some force I can feel a very light rubbing like the clutch is out of adjustment and she’s not fully pulling the tranny out of gear
 

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Move the nut to the other side. After it’s adjusted tighten the nut against the bracket.


67 coupe, 289, performer intake, 302 heads, Holley 570, Pertronix II dizzy, C4, 9” rear, 3.50, 17” wheels
 

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You might want to check how much slop is in the system. The equalizer and rods are known to wear. Also the clutch pedal support bracket above the steering column is known to have bushings wear out. All this can lead to not enough stroke and a hard to actuate clutch. Or it could be the clutch is wearing out. But I’d go through the linkage first.

Jason
 

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65 GT 4 speed/69 SCJ 4 speed
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This is a picture of the clutch rod on my 65. Looks to be the same as yours ? The upper clutch rod for the 66 is a different, no adjustment, set up. As suggested you may want to inspect and verify your assembly. Brian
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Mine is a 65 Fastback 289 and looks like the set up in this picture. That is the way it was when I got it in 1984.
But then again, I have a 69 4 speed top loader and 69 nine inch rear end. :)

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Check all your pivot points and connections. Make sure the clutch / brake pedal support bracket isn't worn out or trashed from lots of usage. The z-bar shouldn't be shifting around while the clutch is being used. Like mentioned, check everything with the linkage and have a helper available or a video camera mounted in a way that can record what's going on while you're inside the car pushing the clutch pedal. If everything looks okay, another area to check is the clutch fork going into the bellhousing...I had the fulcrum crack on mine, and had to press the clutch almost to the floor before I could shift gears. Then it broke after awhile.
 

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That may be part of your clutch woes. That jam nut should be tightened up against the pointed adjuster. That keeps it from threading in or out while the vehicle is in operation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Copy. So then my question would be, aside from just messing with it, do you know a way to identify what direction to turn the pointed adjuster whether clockwise or counterclockwise to tighten or loosen the slack when looking at the adjuster the same as the photo?
 

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Looking from the front (pointed end), turn it clockwise to shorten the overall length of the arm, and counter clockwise to increase the length.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I’ve been searching the internet looking for steps to dial back in my clutch with the lower rod adjustment and I’ve noticed that in pictures there is a clutch release lever spring which I see that I definitely do not have on the lower rod??
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Does anyone have photos of there 66 clutch release lever springs and how there installed?? Or fricken any other spring what’s attached to the clutch for that matter?
 

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On my 65, there's a notch and hole on the end of the clutch fork, and there are a couple of holes in the vicinity of the shock tower that are similar to the holes for the spring for the parking brake. I believe the short end of the spring goes into the holes on the shock tower and the longer end of the spring goes into the clutch fork. I could take a pic for you tomorrow showing the two locations (don't have my clutch linkage setup right now). Also, I believe 66 had a bracket on the firewall for a spring for the upper rod.
 

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Sorry...forgot all about taking the pics and posting them for you. I had already put the headers in when I read your message of thanks, so didn't get as clear as I wanted, but you'll get the idea.

The first pic is of the bottom of the shock tower on the firewall side. The three bolts coming through secure the frame bracket for the motor mounts. The spring goes into the slot on top and comes out the hole in the bottom:

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This second pic is of the clutch fork taken from the backside. The spring goes into the slot and comes out of the hole on the inboard side:

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