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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am in the middle of a C4 to T5 swap and I installed my clutch pedal a while back. I got it from Mustang's Plus along with the Modern Driveline hydraulic clutch kit. When I installed the pedal (no easy task I might add!) I noticed the pedal doesn't seem to have been bent properly. The pedal is the right length but it comes very close to the brake pedal (see photo). Is there a way I can bend it without removing it from the car? Is it a manufacture defect? Do note that the pedal pad looks smaller because the pedal is not attached to the clutch mechanism yet so it is resting so it is vertical.

*Note* for some reason the photo keeps rotating when I upload it. I tried removing it and re-uploading it but the same issue occurred. Sorry!
 

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They are difficult to bend, for obvious reasons. If you were able to do it, it would involve holding the pedal high and then holding it low also, to bend it. That way no force is on the pivot. That's not where you want it to bend. Two very large adjustable wrenches might get it done. If, not, then you need heat.
 

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I'm assuming you installed w/o removing the entire pedal support assembly? Were the plastic busings put back in that keep the pedal side-to-side play to more of minimum? That's the only other thing I could imagine which could potentially cause the pedals to be that close.

I would think you have a high probability of of damaging something else if you try to bend in place. I'm also converting from C4 to T5 and removed the pedal support assembly from my '68 recently as I'm installing a roller bushing kit. That's too bad they wouldn't bend the pedal properly. Did vendor say anything about that being an issues they've seen before? I got my pedal from MD so hopefully is better but will be on the lookout thanks to your post. Pedal bracket is strong piece but if you put force on that pedal I can envision that whole unit bending vs. the pedal. Like Pete says, you'd need to stabilize pedal to keep force off the assembly and whaterver sheet metal/steering components it attaches to. I'd just take the extra hour and remove it if I were you.
 

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To me, that's an easy fix if you have access to an acetylene or mapp torch. Heat the bend up by the steering column (pull the T/S harness and keep it out of the way) and pull the pedal over. Let cool. Touch up the paint. Done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm assuming you installed w/o removing the entire pedal support assembly? Were the plastic busings put back in that keep the pedal side-to-side play to more of minimum? That's the only other thing I could imagine which could potentially cause the pedals to be that close.

I would think you have a high probability of of damaging something else if you try to bend in place. I'm also converting from C4 to T5 and removed the pedal support assembly from my '68 recently as I'm installing a roller bushing kit. That's too bad they wouldn't bend the pedal properly. Did vendor say anything about that being an issues they've seen before? I got my pedal from MD so hopefully is better but will be on the lookout thanks to your post. Pedal bracket is strong piece but if you put force on that pedal I can envision that whole unit bending vs. the pedal. Like Pete says, you'd need to stabilize pedal to keep force off the assembly and whaterver sheet metal/steering components it attaches to. I'd just take the extra hour and remove it if I were you.
I ordered it online and when comparing the photo to what it should look like, the bends in the pedal aren't steep enough if that makes sense. I did replace the bushings in the pedal and installed the pedal without removing the assembly. Its not easy but can be done. I had to remove the foot well vent to have enough space.
 

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I ordered it online and when comparing the photo to what it should look like, the bends in the pedal aren't steep enough if that makes sense. I did replace the bushings in the pedal and installed the pedal without removing the assembly. Its not easy but can be done. I had to remove the foot well vent to have enough space.
Ya, I've been spending the last few weekends under my dash as I've been converting the pedals and replacing everything else that makes sense along the way (which resulted in 2 boxes from NPD). That's good times under there. Makes yoga look easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ya, I've been spending the last few weekends under my dash as I've been converting the pedals and replacing everything else that makes sense along the way (which resulted in 2 boxes from NPD). That's good times under there. Makes yoga look easy.
I only added the pedal and changed the bushings. The hole and everything else looked ok to me so I didn't bother. Not a fan of working under the dash for anything! You've almost got to be a contortionist to get up in there.
 

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I have the same set-up with no issues but bought the whole set from MDL , did you correctly cut the brake pad ?
 

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I also have an MDL clutch pedal and learned recently it's not the same as other repros. They make theirs themselves and when I compared angle in Utah's photo above to the one I have from MD is steeper where kicks out toward drivers door. Another advantage to the MD worth noting is that it uses a custom removable bolt that has a nyloc nut which I prefer compared to original design.
 

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I'm going roller on mine but curious if the stock arrangment used those nylon top-hat shaped bushings on both the brake and clutch pedals? Reason I ask is that my Scott Drake rolller conversion kit only came with 2 which I understand both go in the brake pedal sleave where the shaft slides thorugh but then no nylon sleaves for the clutch pedal just doesn't sound right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm going roller on mine but curious if the stock arrangment used those nylon top-hat shaped bushings on both the brake and clutch pedals? Reason I ask is that my Scott Drake rolller conversion kit only came with 2 which I understand both go in the brake pedal sleave where the shaft slides thorugh but then no nylon sleaves for the clutch pedal just doesn't sound right?
Yes it uses those bushings. They only get used on the brake pedal. The clutch pedal slides into the brake pedal and it what holds it onto the assembly bracket.
 
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