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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, piecing together T5 parts and trying to select a decent clutch/pp combo. I admit I've run built automatics all my life so your recommendations are useful here. I'll keep it simple, T-5 conversion, 3:80 trutrac rear, and roughly 325hp out of an early 302. This motor sees 6k+ regularly in autocross which is roughly 90% of my time. I am admittedly overwhelmed by the # of manufacturers and quantity of parts. Stock isn't gonna cut it, but dual clutch is an overstatement. Suggestion on reputable performance clutches/pp would be helpful here. I'm leaning towards a diaphragm type with a lighter weight fly wheel, partly due to my aarp status.
 

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I used a Centerforce dual friction disc and PP combo in my FF Cobra with no problems. The engine was a 331 with aprox 420 HP, custom T5 box and a 3.55 rear axle ratio. Light actuation, no clutch shudder or anything weird. It would easily boil a set of 315/35/17 tires.
 

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I have a 164T flywheel on my 302 so I use an 11" Centerforce clutch for a FE (390/427/428). It has the standard 10 spline hub.
 

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I am no expert, but it seems to me a lighter FW would be good for autocross. Just don't go too light. The diameter of the PP will influence the overall weight of the FW. Research the weight, could take some serious thought. I would have a machine shop balance the PP/FW combo. Diaphragm PP is always my preference. Just get a good one. I run a McLeod clutch. Perfection Clutch is questionable quality. Careful about really stiff racing clutches.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That's the good parts, I haven't selected a flywheel yet, plan to run something around 15lbs, 157 tooth, 28oz, not too light to stall at idle but light enough to allow me to spin up faster. If I can find a complete combo, that would be great.
 

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I'll be following this thread. The clutch setup I got with my MDL conversation was for a cruiser not an autocrosser. I pretty much fried it trying to launch in second gear.
 

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I'll be following this thread. The clutch setup I got with my MDL conversation was for a cruiser not an autocrosser. I pretty much fried it trying to launch in second gear.
Which one did you get? They sold me the Kevlar clutch, the car is still in pieces so I haven't had an opportunity to run it yet. If that doesn't work I guess a twin disc in in my future.
 

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Which one did you get? They sold me the Kevlar clutch, the car is still in pieces so I haven't had an opportunity to run it yet. If that doesn't work I guess a twin disc in in my future.
My clutch and pressure plate were listed as "Super King Cobra" that ended up being on of those decent Korean packages that are popular on eBay. I've bought similar before and they work good on the street. Given my Sciatica I'll sadly be looking at the twin disc setup.
 

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Look at National Parts Depot. I believe they have a diaphragm pressure plate with a Long style bolt pattern. I currently have a diaphragm pressure plate and had a Long for years and I don't know that I can tell the difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thank you for the MDL comment, that makes me feel better about buying a matched clutch/pp/fw in advance. I see mccleod and centerforce vendors all the time, and vegas is right around the corner. Early xmas present???
 

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I installed the Centerforce DF kit over 80k miles ago behind my 351W and it’s still going strong. I’ve killed two T5’s and haven’t ever had a hiccup with the clutch.

Now, clutch pedal effort is stiffer than stock, and I am running a hydraulic clutch linkage too, so the extra clamping force does not come without some extra pedal effort. And they aren’t cheap, yikes (I bought mine 15+ years ago), but it’s been good to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm settling on the centerforce DF clutch but centerforce email support has already provided me two wrong parts numbers. I'm running a '68 302, and installing an '86 T5. I'm currently looking at summit racing centerforce flywheel DF900220 and clutch kit DF490030..

Part numbers would really help here. Thanks much.
 

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I hope I am not hijacking the thread but I am buying a T5 that comes with a brand new RXT twin disk clutch from McLeod. I have a 418 with 500HP that it will be mated to. My concern or lack of knowledge is will this clutch engage to hard or be good for my set up? I've read that most transmissions break from having to aggressive engaging clutch, or hits to hard. I have zero experience with this type of clutch set up.
 

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I hope I am not hijacking the thread but I am buying a T5 that comes with a brand new RXT twin disk clutch from McLeod. I have a 418 with 500HP that it will be mated to. My concern or lack of knowledge is will this clutch engage to hard or be good for my set up? I've read that most transmissions break from having to aggressive engaging clutch, or hits to hard. I have zero experience with this type of clutch set up.


Twin disc set ups allow for more holding power, without being ultra heavy. According to McLeods website on the rxt, the clutch should provide smooth engagement with a soft pedal feel. You should read more on their site. https://www.mcleodracing.com/index.php/clutch-kits/rxt-twin-disc.html

Setup isn’t bad, just a little overkill. McLeods site says the rxt is good for 1000hp. Your T5 will give up long before the clutch (assuming you have a good driveshaft, and a 9” diff). The T5, specifically T5z, is rated to 330lbft. About 175 to 200 lbft shy of what your 418 makes. I’d suggest a TKO600.




Sent from the interwebs
 

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Twin disc set ups allow for more holding power, without being ultra heavy. According to McLeods website on the rxt, the clutch should provide smooth engagement with a soft pedal feel. You should read more on their site. https://www.mcleodracing.com/index.php/clutch-kits/rxt-twin-disc.html

Setup isn’t bad, just a little overkill. McLeods site says the rxt is good for 1000hp. Your T5 will give up long before the clutch (assuming you have a good driveshaft, and a 9” diff). The T5, specifically T5z, is rated to 330lbft. About 175 to 200 lbft shy of what your 418 makes. I’d suggest a TKO600.




Sent from the interwebs
I read their website but to me it wasn't very clear if it really hit hard or not. I guess in my mind it being twin disk means big performance, lol

I will be buying a Pro Motion built T5 with G force parts. The clutch set up and flywheel are included with this trans I am buying, good for 600HP. The engine I picked up says it was a 500hp build.
 

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Twin disc set ups allow for more holding power, without being ultra heavy. According to McLeods website on the rxt, the clutch should provide smooth engagement with a soft pedal feel. You should read more on their site. https://www.mcleodracing.com/index.php/clutch-kits/rxt-twin-disc.html

Setup isn’t bad, just a little overkill. McLeods site says the rxt is good for 1000hp. Your T5 will give up long before the clutch (assuming you have a good driveshaft, and a 9” diff). The T5, specifically T5z, is rated to 330lbft. About 175 to 200 lbft shy of what your 418 makes. I’d suggest a TKO600.
I got a barely used Centerforce DF clutch and fw from a guy that went to a 347 stroker and that Tremec TKO. I'd say unless Astro or G-force built up that T5, you're gonna eat it. I'm worried enough that I'm beefing up a new T5z before putting it behind a roller 302 that probably may barely exceed 330 ft lbs. You didn't say what T5; do you know if you T5 was a v8 tranny? Btw, Rick @ Astro reminded me that the 330 ft lb rating of a T5z is when it's in a 3,300(?) lb mustang, so in a 2,800 lb vm it's actual torque rating is theoretically a little bit higher.
 

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How many of you guys have used eccentric dowels and a dial gauge to 'center' the bell housing over the flywheel? Heard doing that reduces side-load on the input shaft of the tranny, and that's very important for the life of a tranny like a t5z?
 
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