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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, I know that some member on the forum has a setup something like this, because I've seen pictures of it before... but can't for the life of me remember who it was or where it was!

Basically, I need to relocate the clutch lever release spring. Right now, it runs from the transmission arm (probably not what it's actually called, but you guys know what I'm talking about...) to the little exclamation-point-shaped hole in the shock tower at the motor mount. However, that's causing it to rub directly on my new r&p setup, which clearly is not something I want because it could cause a lot of wear and/or binding if it jumps into the wrong groove on the U-joint.

My question is... can the spring be routed from the arm back to a spot on the equalizer bar? It just keeps the arm from sticking in place, which would allow the clutch fork to fall out, correct? So sticking a shorter spring directly back to the equalizer bar should keep the arm firmly held onto the clutch fork... right?

I need to figure out some way to keep the spring out of the way of the U-joint. Any suggestions?

Note: 1966 Mustang, toploader tranny, rack and pinion steering, 65-style equalizer bar with adjustable threaded pushrod
 

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IIRC I routed mine as you describe for long 4 tube header clearance. Believe I used the stock spring, but cut down and bent to fit.
 

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Ok, I know that some member on the forum has a setup something like this, because I've seen pictures of it before... but can't for the life of me remember who it was or where it was!

Basically, I need to relocate the clutch lever release spring. Right now, it runs from the transmission arm (probably not what it's actually called, but you guys know what I'm talking about...) to the little exclamation-point-shaped hole in the shock tower at the motor mount. However, that's causing it to rub directly on my new r&p setup, which clearly is not something I want because it could cause a lot of wear and/or binding if it jumps into the wrong groove on the U-joint.

My question is... can the spring be routed from the arm back to a spot on the equalizer bar? It just keeps the arm from sticking in place, which would allow the clutch fork to fall out, correct? So sticking a shorter spring directly back to the equalizer bar should keep the arm firmly held onto the clutch fork... right?

I need to figure out some way to keep the spring out of the way of the U-joint. Any suggestions?

Note: 1966 Mustang, toploader tranny, rack and pinion steering, 65-style equalizer bar with adjustable threaded pushrod
:worthless:
 

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you could do a 67 up type set up and mount it to the top of the equalizer bar to the firewall.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Derherr65, what did you attach your spring to on the other side?

Pic of my current setup - I bent the spring around the ports and put a bit of rubber hose on it to prevent wear, but I'm still not 100% happy with it.



Not sure exactly what the purpose of the spring is - looks like it helps pull the lever forward to keep the fork from falling out. In that case, attaching the spring to the firewall would be quite detrimental!
 

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You can add a short spring from the clutch fork to the pivot end on the lower linkage. yes the idea is to keep the rods end from dropping out of the forks hole and the throwout bearing from resting against the pressureplate fingers, so a short spring can be used there.
BUT, do you have a return spring somewhere else to return the clutch pedal upward? you may have to put one on the upper part of the linkage from the firewall to the top of the equalizer bar for pedal return.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I only have two springs on my clutch linkage right now - the spring to the clutch release lever and the really stiff return spring that attaches to the top of the clutch pedal in the interior. As far as I know (or the Ford manual says, at least), those are the only two springs I'm supposed to have.
 

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I only have two springs on my clutch linkage right now - the spring to the clutch release lever and the really stiff return spring that attaches to the top of the clutch pedal in the interior. As far as I know (or the Ford manual says, at least), those are the only two springs I'm supposed to have.
That is correct for a 65. Late 66-70 had one from the lever to the equalizer, one from the equalizer to the firewall, and the big assist spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Does anyone have a picture of the equalizer bar set up correctly for a 66? My car started out life as an automatic and I believe it now just has a '65 clutch setup in it, but if I can switch it over to the late '66 setup that would be optimal (probably). My manual only shows the early '66 setup, I guess, because there are only two springs shown.
 

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My 66 has the earlier setup, since it's a September car. Works perfectly. Changing your 65 to the late 66 configuration will require cutting a slot in the firewall below the master cylinder and finding or fabricating the spring bracket.
 
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