[autoxsteve]

Well, I got my car running the other day, and I have been thinking a little about the clutch adjustment.
The Shop manual only spels out adjustment for free and total travel (although on a Mustang the total travel is fixed, as the stop is bolted in). Anyhow, the rod betwen the Z-bar and the clutch fork is adjustable, and the shop manual doesn't address this (the 65 manual shows a rod that doens't have the rocket nosecone on the end of it like mine). Can anyone shed some light on this? I suspect that between the two, I could change the 'gain' of the clutch adjustment.



Steve Leslie, 65 coupe in restoration. 302, toploader, A/C, disc brakes, bench seat

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1571478&a=12287439&p=44845480.jpg

 

[roadracer]

Steve, here is what I do (don't know if it "right" but it works for me).

The objective is to have a nice "tight" clutch an still ensure full release of the throwout bearing from the clutch fingers.

I tighten (expand) the adjusting rod unitl I just fell no slop in the movement of the clutch fork and throwout bearing. I just wiggle it by hand. Then I adjust (collapse) the rod until I can feel what I believe to be about 1/16" of free play in the throwout bearing relative to the clutch fingers (kinda rattles). This is not much movement.

This results for me in about 1" of pedal play inside the car.

http://home.netcom.com/~jonescha/Photos/DCP_0355_178x109.jpg
"If you're under control you're not going fast enough"
Parnelli Jones
Try my website

 

[autoxsteve]

You are referring to the rod by the clutch fork. Do you adjust the free travel (via the threaded rod from the clutch pedal to the Z-bar) first?

Thanks in advance...



Steve Leslie, 65 coupe in restoration. 302, toploader, A/C, disc brakes, bench seat

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1571478&a=12287439&p=44845480.jpg

 

[roadracer]

Sorry, I misunderstood you.

I no got threaded rod there....my rod is fixed length...?

http://home.netcom.com/~jonescha/Photos/DCP_0355_178x109.jpg
"If you're under control you're not going fast enough"
Parnelli Jones
Try my website

 

[Guest]

Steve - R those tri-bars or conventional surface halogens you got there? I wanted to try the tri-bars but I didn't have the guts to go that far out there, but these look pretty cool, whether tri-bar or not. Where'd you get 'em?

Dan
You are only a doofus until the next round...
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1589115&a=12097562&p=45065947.jpg

 

[autoxsteve]

Yep, TRI-bars. Got them from Mustangs Plus. I got the white colored ones, with the black dot in the center. They are great and dropped right in!

Steve


Steve Leslie, 65 coupe in restoration. 302, toploader, A/C, disc brakes, bench seat

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1571478&a=12287439&p=44845480.jpg

 

[Guest]

Sah-wheeet!!!

Dan
You are only a doofus until the next round...
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1589115&a=12097562&p=45065947.jpg

 

[Dean_T]

Mr Leslie,

Regarding the clutch rod (from clutch fork to Z bar), yes, the original '65/'66 were non-adjustible units but adjustible units are available - not sure which vehicles they were native to. Way back when I converted from a C4 to toploader I picked up an adjustible rod from NAPA auto parts in Camarillo. I think it was for a Ford truck.

I used it because for some bizarre reason, the top rod from the pedal was almost out of the Z bar. When the clutch wears it gets adjusted inwards but I wanted the rod to go into the Z bar a little more than it did.

Hope I that helps,

Looking forward to seeing you at Knotts!

Dean T

Shikatta Ga Nai - "It cannot be helped"