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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

So, I removed the front suspension springs using the 'usual' internal coil spring compressor. No problems but always a bit nervous.

I've now added new upper & lower control arms and am ready to reinstall the coils. I spent ages trying to get it just right before tightening but backed out each time as it was not straight or it looked like it was slipping....i've lost my nerve!

I saw mention of another type, which is more like what was used in the factory (apparently) - its the OTC 7045b

I've seen some people on the forum mention that its safer..and it looks like it might be as it uses plates rather than prongs.

It's not cheap..and I'll have to wait a week or so to get it delivered to Ireland, but what does everyone think - safe = worth it in my book.

Cheers
 

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That’s the one I use and have always felt pretty confident in its ability to safely do the job. After hearing some horror stories I felt it was worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Unanimous :) - Thanks guys - I'll order and just be patient.

I just put the driver side spindle, disc brake unit back on and found that the outer tie rod bolt spins in the ball joint when doing up the nut. I will have to order one of those as well. Typically I have two brand new ones but for manual steering and not for power steering! (I was going to get rid of the power steering a while back)

Cheers
Grant
www.mymustangjourney.com
 

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I'd be looking for one like this for under $100. If you type in DAZE carz, he has a recipe for building one. I built my own years ago and its a great tool to have in your box. Made specifically for our cars, remove the shock and use the shock mounts to remove the spring internally. Much safer, you load the spring in place instead of creating a grenade and having to pick it up...

 

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Unanimous :) - Thanks guys - I'll order and just be patient.

I just put the driver side spindle, disc brake unit back on and found that the outer tie rod bolt spins in the ball joint when doing up the nut. I will have to order one of those as well. Typically I have two brand new ones but for manual steering and not for power steering! (I was going to get rid of the power steering a while back)

Cheers
Grant
www.mymustangjourney.com
Spinning is normal if the nut binds. The pin is a 7° taper. Clean the threads on the pin, clean the hole, use a new nut. Should work perfectly.

On PS cars, the left tie rod ends are offset to clear the valve. The right side uses the manual tie rod ends. The PS rod ends may of course be used on cars without PS to no ill effect. If you still have PS you must of course use PS tie rod ends.

As for the compressor I have used that one, and the real Ford compressor, save as houses.

The price varies, and of course shipping to Éireann could be an adventure.


OTC 7045B Front Coil Spring Compressor
33 reviews
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NationalToolWarehouse.comOTC Tools & Equipment 7045B Front Coil Spring Compressor by National Tool Warehouse
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Summit RacingOTC Tools 7045B: OTC Front Coil Spring Compressors
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$206.46
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TRUCKiD.comOTC 7045B Coil Spring Compressor$183.08
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JBTools.comOTC 7045B Compressor, Front Coil Spring
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eBayOtc Tools 7045b Front Coil Spring Compressor
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ToolTopia.comOTC Tools (OTC7045B) Front Coil Spring Compressor # 7045B
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$169.51
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Tool DiscounterOTC 7045B Front Coil Spring
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Auto Body ToolmartOTC Front Coil Spring Compressor - 7045B$237.66
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Unique Truck Equipment Front Coil Spring Compressor
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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the advise and all the links!

Yeah, I don't mind paying for the tool but the shipping is a killer :-(

Spinning is normal if the nut binds. The pin is a 7° taper. Clean the threads on the pin, clean the hole, use a new nut. Should work perfectly.

On PS cars, the left tie rod ends are offset to clear the valve. The right side uses the manual tie rod ends. The PS rod ends may of course be used on cars without PS to no ill effect. If you still have PS you must of course use PS tie rod ends.

As for the compressor I have used that one, and the real Ford compressor, save as houses.

The price varies, and of course shipping to Éireann could be an adventure.


OTC 7045B Front Coil Spring Compressor
33 reviews
Free shipping
Top-rated stores
Refurbished/used
Sponsored
Loading...
Sold by
NationalToolWarehouse.comOTC Tools & Equipment 7045B Front Coil Spring Compressor by National Tool Warehouse
Free shipping·No tax
$163.00
$163.00
Visit Site
Summit RacingOTC Tools 7045B: OTC Front Coil Spring Compressors
Free shipping
$190.99
$206.46
Visit Site
TRUCKiD.comOTC 7045B Coil Spring Compressor$183.08
$216.86
Visit Site
JBTools.comOTC 7045B Compressor, Front Coil Spring
Free shipping·No tax
$196.15
$196.15
Visit Site
eBayOtc Tools 7045b Front Coil Spring Compressor
Free shipping
$192.49
$204.04
Visit Site
ToolTopia.comOTC Tools (OTC7045B) Front Coil Spring Compressor # 7045B
Free shipping
$169.51
$179.68
Visit Site
Tool DiscounterOTC 7045B Front Coil Spring
No tax
$191.50
$202.46
Visit Site
Auto Body ToolmartOTC Front Coil Spring Compressor - 7045B$237.66
$280.15
Visit Site
Unique Truck Equipment Front Coil Spring Compressor
No tax
$202.55
$212.50
Visit Site
 

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I often drop a chain down through the hole and spring, then loop it back up in the engine side and bolt the ends together. I had a near miss years ago- the spring actually snapped and I nearly wore a coil for a hat! This is exactly the reason Ian Roussel has a crooked nose!
 

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I must be in the minority, I built the Daze spring compressor and used it to remove my springs and didn't much care for it. When I replaced the springs I bought the four hook compressor, took my time to keep the rod centered and offset the pairs of hooks 90 degrees and much preferred it for installation.
 

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As for your outer ball joint.
If it is still good, place a block of wood under it and apply light pressure with floor jack. The taper will wedge in from pressure and you can install nut and tighten to torque specs.
 

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I never do this by myself, it seems like I always need a 4th hand to get the compressor on straight. Im also always nervous that the thread are not strong enough to hold the springs tension, but in over 40 years of installing and uninstalling springs I have never had one fail.
 

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Scary as heck for sure. Definitely like a loaded grenade.

I’ve had lots of minor injuries. Tons of cuts and scrapes. Almost had a grinder eat my face that scared me a lot and I got lucky.

Had the pedal on the clutch spring snap on my thumb.

I hate loaded springs too.

I do think the double hook tool can be used safely of you keep and eye on the hooks and make sure that stay on opposite ends.
 

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I have all 3 types of compressors. The hook type scares the heck out of me. I wont use it again. The shock replacement style is not bad, but it is a bit more involved, particularly if your spring pirch is old and not cooperative.

I just did this again myself, replacing my springs on my 67 coupe. I used the shock style to take the first one off, then switched to the OTC to remove the second and install both. In the future, I will probably only use the OTC.
 

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I have this one. I have never removed springs from a car but I'm about to on my 66. Reading that there are a bunch of horror stories out there regarding this subject it makes me quite nervous. When you used yours what did you do to ease the nervousness? Did you add any extra precautions like some other posters did, i.e chain around the spring or strap with ratchet to keep it from flying????
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
I decided to buy the OTC one - two week wait to Ireland :-( - But I feel like it will be worth it in the long run.

Dumb question, but the picture I found on the net of this tool in use seems to show one of the plates on top of the coil...if so, how do you remove it when its installed ?

UPDATE - I just found this online - https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51EClXVc7KL.pdf - seems like the instructions :)

OTC how to remove.JPG
 
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