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Discussion Starter #1
My 65 was built by the PO. I seem to remember the PO telling me the car had an arning drop and 1" drop springs. The fender height is 24" with a 25" tall 195-65-15 tire.

In regards to the other coil spring thread, why dont you use a drop spring with the arning drop?

My 67 200/C4 coupe looks like a pre-runner. I think the car has oem springs, they dont look like they have been replaced. I want to drop that car down to 24-25in fender height. I will be putting in a 250 thats a little heavier than the 200 but I dont think I can get the drop with just springs or the arning drop.
 

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I think part of the issue is that the term "drop spring" is used too freely. Too many factors are going to control ride height. On my 66 when I did my suspension, Arning drop along with Street or Track. I installed stock GT spec coils it lowered my front over 1". I wouldn't have wanted my car any lower. I replaced them with the "so called" drop springs, .620", 600# according to Scott Drake. They raised the front quite a bit. I cut a half coil off. Over time with the springs settling, in hind site maybe 1/4 would have been better. Don't laugh I actually have to pick the front of the car up to slide my floor jack under.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The rear fender is 24.75" with a slightly taller 25.5" 205-65-15 tire.

I want a taller and wider tire on the rear for a bit more rake, I like the front as is.
 

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There's no rule saying you can't use "drop coil springs." I used them on my 65 after doing the Shelby drop and they made the front end taller than it was before. The reasoning for that is because the springs I took off the car were likely the originals, and after 50+ years the springs are going to sag. Also with being the originals they were a thinner gauge coil. So when you get new springs, especially ones with thicker coils, they're likely going to make the car sit higher in the front end, even after doing the Shelby drop. I ended up cutting 1/2 of a coil off my springs to get it to the ride height I wanted. If you do cut your springs, use a cutoff wheel and not a torch as it can get too hot. Also, start with a 1/4 coil first, install it, drive it around the block a time or two and then re-assess.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Husk, what size wheels are you running?
Im thinking about TTD 15x6 F - 15x7 R with 195/65/15 and 215/65/15.
My SSW are 15x7, but I dont think a 15x7 TTD with 3.75 BS will clear on the front.

Here is my 67 after I converted it to 5 lug. 14x6 Torino GT rims under the hubcaps 215/75/14 all the way around.
If I go with the TTD on the 65, I will put the SSW on the 67.
 

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Cut your front springs, determine how much you want to lower the front and cut half of that amount off of the over all height of the spring rather than guess. That will give you the exact drop you want. Good time to add roller perches as that will do more for your ride quality up front and more than make up for any increase in stiffness caused by shortening the springs.
 

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Husk, what size wheels are you running?
Im thinking about TTD 15x6 F - 15x7 R with 195/65/15 and 215/65/15.
My SSW are 15x7, but I dont think a 15x7 TTD with 3.75 BS will clear on the front.

Here is my 67 after I converted it to 5 lug. 14x6 Torino GT rims under the hubcaps 215/75/14 all the way around.
If I go with the TTD on the 65, I will put the SSW on the 67.
I'm running 215/60/15 on 15x7 TTD's all around. I rolled my fender lips along with 1.125° negative camber and Arning drop.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I dont think i can run a 15x7 TTD on the front of my 65 and still make it into the driveway. I would have to run a 15x6 or a 15x7 Magnum 500 with 4.25 BS.

I need to get a wheel off and measure the BS to confirm what I have now. When I bought the car it had 225/60/15 Radial T/As and there wasnt enough front fender clearance for me. The tires had been on the car for 12 years with no evidence of rubbing, but I dont want to creep around like an old lady, scared to death to drive.
 

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Yeah it's a tight fit. I still get some very slight rubbing on my left side making a hard right turn off the main road to mine. Both roads have a fair amount of a crown.
 

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One car running all stock rubber suspension bushings and one running all spherical bearings, all else being equal, would sit at different ride heights. The stock bushings add quite a bit of resistance to suspension movement, the bearings do not. Just more food for thought. 😁
 

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Discussion Starter #14
my 67 200/C4 sits at 27.5" in the front and 26.5" in the rear. I have no idea on past history of this car. It is a T-code, but may have had a V8 in one of ts previous lives. I have no idea why it sits so high. The only reason I havent broke out the cutoff wheel and bought lowering blocks is Im not 100% what engine is going in it yet.
 

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One car running all stock rubber suspension bushings and one running all spherical bearings, all else being equal, would sit at different ride heights. The stock bushings add quite a bit of resistance to suspension movement, the bearings do not. Just more food for thought. 😁
Exactly as Dave said. I never thought about this when I did my car. I installed GT spec coils uncut. At 170 pounds just sitting quickly on the end of the front fender I would be bottoming the suspension. I gave my brother a ride once. He's about 260. Just sitting I was on the bump stops or very, very close to it. My 2" factory exhaust system at the time was dragging on the driveway. I have avoided the .620" 600# springs like the coronavirus but reluctantly installed them. They actually work well on my car. Firm ride but absolutely not harsh or unpleasant. For reference I have Bilstein Sports in front, great shock and spring combo for the street.
 

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There are two factors to consider: the spring rate and the spring length.
The rate is measured by how many pounds it takes to compress it 1 inch. This determines “stiffness.” The rate increases with the wire diameter by a factor of four – huge. Thus going from 0.62” wire to 0.72” results in an 81% increase in rate ((0.72/0.62)^4). The rate is also dependent on the number of coils (turns), but only proportionally; cutting off a half turn of a spring with 8 turns will increase the rate only 6% (8/7.5).
The free length is simply the length of the spring.
Take two coils with the same spring rate (the same diameter wire and number of turns) but one is longer than the other (it is stretched with more distance between each turn). After installing them on the car they will each deflect (compress) the same amount, but the shorter spring will simply cause the car to sit lower. A “drop spring” with the same rate is simply shorter. Other variables include replacing the rubber bushings with bearings (already discussed) and the thickness of the spring’s insulator (top seat bushing).
If you want to lower the car one inch, you want the spring to be one-half inch shorter when compressed (car sitting on the ground). If you can measure the distance between the coil’s turns (center to center) when compressed you can determine how much to cut off to get the drop that you want.
Hope this helps. YMMV.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I suspect that my 67 does not have the original springs. Theres no way the front end can be so high unless someone yanked a 390 and put in the 200.

I think I will do the Arning drop tomorrow and see where it sits. I need to add a bag of sand to the front end before I start cutting coils.since the 250 weighs more than the 200.

I think Im going to run 17x8 New Edge wheels with 1in spacers and 245/45/17s all the way around.
 
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