Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 20 of 36 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,


Just joined and could use some advice.


After doing some research about replacing multiple frame parts on my 1967 coupe I decided to go with a complete floor pan. Seems like it would be easier and more accurate.


Looking at this: https://www.cjponyparts.com/dynacorn-complete-floor-pan-assembly-in-weld-thru-primer-coupe-fastback-1965-1968/p/FLP20WT/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwu-HoBRD5ARIsAPIPendSsclymGi1VTOV_vJ9tLIQ0F6NKvkgK_mMTJqdj6rYjwNLxD0jG3gaAuNGEALw_wcB


Has anyone here installed one of these? How was the install and what measurements were key to ensuring it was done correctly? What was your opinion of the complete floor pan?


Any tips would be great!


Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,281 Posts
Just make sure you have all your measurements and everything braced. Keep your old stuff just in case you need some brackets that aren’t welded on the new floor. I just did this on a 67 coupe a couple of months ago. It had a lot of rust and time wise it really helped out instead of piece by piece. Like all repo parts, you have to make it fit though. Mine was really close. Also, I’m a dynacorn distributor and give forum members a discount. I can get it for you cheaper that CJ. Send me a text at 8126601062.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I put one in my 66. Got mine from Thoroughbred manufacturing but they have since gone out of business. Mine fit like a glove I have some pics of the install in my build thread.
Would love to see the pics, so you have a link to your thread? Or how can I find it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Must people use the Liskey drawings for dimensions.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Cobra,


Question about these diagrams from Liskey and Ford. Am I to use a tram gauge to verify ALL of the measurements or just the ones with a T next to them? How does one ensure they are centered in the holes? If I only use a tram gauge on some and not on others, then how I am I supposed to measure the others?


Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,379 Posts
Honestly, you are best tracing the existing floor pan before removing it...it sits on the lower firewall at the front(floor-firewall-extensions they are sometimes called...but they are part of the firewall) and on the shock mount panel at the back where it drops in a radius below the rear seat(you can see some of the details in my daily driver build thread...replaced the vast majority of my floors in various patch panels). Assuming that the replacement full floor pan is the same(and most of them probably are) you should be able to realign it off your tracing marks. The only real concern you should have is keeping the car braced while you do the surgery...pan alignment itself will be easy.

P.S. Just for reference...the back lip of the pan sitting on the shock panel ledge(minus where I cut it away to repair some rot...also a useful picture because it shows the frame rail location at the back.



What you will find is that if you verify measurements on the new vs. old pan from rocker to rocker, there is only one way it fits in width-wise...and front to back if you trace your old pan before removal and verify those measurements too, you wont have any issue, always assuming the car is well braced before removal(probably the biggest reason I chose the piecemeal approach...I was able to cut out one section at a time so I didnt have to do that...good enough for a daily driver...not ideal fort a show car unless you spend a lot of time on grinding butt welds perfectly)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,281 Posts
I use a tram for the ones marked “T”. As far as the center of the holes I just eye ball it. I use a laser, and plum bobs. I’ve built a frame jig for the cars I do. That way I can see if there is any other problems. Then I brace it, a lot. I check everything again, and start cutting.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I use a tram for the ones marked “T”. As far as the center of the holes I just eye ball it. I use a laser, and plum bobs. I’ve built a frame jig for the cars I do. That way I can see if there is any other problems. Then I brace it, a lot. I check everything again, and start cutting.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So you use plumb bobs when you don’t need the tram gauge? Do you level the car first? Are you hanging them from the center of the holes, letting them settle, and then marking the floor?

Why not use a tram gauge for all the measurements??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,130 Posts
I would go this route in a heartbeat if I were to do another mustang.

Personally, I’d order one for a convertible gt. You’ll get the benefit of the added inner rockers and one piece seat pan and also the hangers for the dual exhaust. You’ll gain proven beam/torsional strength and the only downside being you’ll need to order convertible carpet and kick panels when you get to that point.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,090 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,281 Posts
I got mine from Stangaholics as well. Drop shipped, and no issues.


If you need more dynacorn sheet metal let me know. I give forum members a discount on here. Can beat that price and have stuff dropped shipped from the Camarillo CA warehouse.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
131 Posts
If you need more dynacorn sheet metal let me know. I give forum members a discount on here. Can beat that price and have stuff dropped shipped from the Camarillo CA warehouse.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
what does "dropped shipped" mean?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,142 Posts
what does "dropped shipped" mean?
It means it's shipped directly from the manufacturer/distributor right to the end user, without going through the selling dealer. Saves shipping costs.

John
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,281 Posts
Sorry to hijack this thread. It’s easier to have big things drop shipped from their warehouse and leaves my shop open for more cars lol. I charge actual shipping and I’m doing this to help my shop customers and I offer discounts to VMF members. I can get any parts from dynacorn, just not mustang parts. Also AMK parts too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
131 Posts
So how much should having something like this done? I don't know how to weld and if I wanted to do this I'd want to have a good shop do this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,281 Posts
Once you get into that, you have opened a can of worms. I’ve pieced together rails, trunk pan and floor pans before. It cheaper as far as parts at first, labor will be more. But if you get the whole assembly, more up front parts wise and less labor actually in the long run. Usually I do restomods and don’t care about original metal. I’m to the point I buy the whole floor assembly anymore and start from there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
1 - 20 of 36 Posts
Top