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Im kinda thinking I would have seen this come up before if possible but what might stop a person from converting the guts of a points style dizzy to the reluctor and pick up to trigger a Duraspark box? If I had a spare Duraspark or found another closeout priced one I might be tempted to tear into it and try.
LOVE MY RED TAB:love:
 

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Easier to swap the entire distributor assembly onto your engine.
The main issue is the cam part of the distributor. Cam style part when you're driving ignition points and
it takes a reluctor when you're dealing with a pickup coil. I don't think you can merely pull the cam-style
item and directly replace it with the other style. I'm pretty sure I looked into it once.....
You would want to replace distributor shaft bushings, if you can swap both the upper cam part and the lower shaft
and put them both in your old housing. That much I do know.
 

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Im kinda thinking I would have seen this come up before if possible but what might stop a person from converting the guts of a points style dizzy to the reluctor and pick up to trigger a Duraspark box? If I had a spare Duraspark or found another closeout priced one I might be tempted to tear into it and try.
LOVE MY RED TAB:love:
If you have a pick and pull near you, you could most likely get a Duraspark distributor there cheap.
 

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Last year I converted to Duraspark. It just might be easier to buy a brand new unit. The one I have is a rebranded Spectra from AutoZone. You can get them cheaper from Rockauto for around $50. Don't let the price fool you. They're very nicely made and look very much like a Ford distributor. At the time I had a Edlebrock that was hard to start once warm. The Duraspark fixed that. Starting vastly improved.

Most Duraspark are what's called "blue grommet" which refers to the plastic wire retainer. There is a CA version that is the red grommet version. The red grommet buts out a much hotter spark, plug gap is .060". It uses a specific full 12 volt coil and does not energize the coil if the engine isn't running.
 

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I also got a newer distributor for my Duraspark conversion, mine was from OReilley's. I have a couple of the blue grommet Duraspark boxes in my garage if you're looking for one.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ive already got the DS set up with a MotorCraft dizzy and the more complex red tab module. (and spares) Runs like a top in a vacuum..

It started with me wanting a vac advance that used the hard tube and then the wheels got turning and thinking about having another FoMoCo dizzy case with the later model stuff inside, just for my own satisfaction.
 

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Another topic I would like to add, whether a points distributor or Duraspark... I would highly recommend that you have either distributor's advance curve checked and set properly for your engine combination. I bought a NAPA remanufactured single point distributor for my car around 1999, the car ran fine but just seemed to be a little sluggish... I played with timing and carburetor, nothing changed. My father who used to run circle track in the 1960's recommended taking the distributor up to Gellner Engineering in Cleveland and have its curve checked out.. the Machine/Speed Shop's founder Sam** took it apart and noted the weights were set for only 10 degrees advance and the springs were so stiff he was surprised that I had any advance.. he rotated the weights, put in some lighter springs and told me to set the timing at 16 degrees before TDC and not to use the vacuum advance... the car felt like it gained 50 horsepower, best $35 I ever spent!!!!!


** - Side Note: Sam Gellner is a local hot rodding legend in Cleveland, OH. He bought a 55 Chevy brand new and used to Drag Race it with a guy named Joe Hrudka... they got sick of buying new gaskets for the valvecovers every time they adjusted the valves... Joe Hrudka's dad worked in tool & die and made a die to cut some rubber gaskets... they started selling them at the Drag Strip... Mr Gasket was born... Sadly, Sam did not go along with Joe at the beginning... did not think it would pay more than he was making as a machinist.. lol
 

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What is the advantage of a Duraspark over a conversion kit like a Pertronix?
I think the main reason is because the distributor, pickup, and reluctor were all designed to work together from the beginning. Not as a retrofit to an older style distributor. Plus there is the well known decades long reliability.

There are at least three versions of the Pertronix and all have created some headaches for people who believed it was as simple as drop in and go.
Sometimes it is that simple. Sometimes it’s not.
 

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What is the advantage of a Duraspark over a conversion kit like a Pertronix?
If/when the duraspark box fails you can find one at almost any auto parts store. The Pertronix is not as readily available if it fails.
 

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What is the advantage of a Duraspark over a conversion kit like a Pertronix?
Pertronix has all the electronic bits inside and it's mounted in the hot distributor.
Solid state electronic stuff doesn't like heat.
 

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What is the advantage of a Duraspark over a conversion kit like a Pertronix?
Pertronix has all the electronic bits inside and it's mounted in the hot distributor.
Solid state electronic stuff doesn't like heat.
Pretty much all you need to know about Pertronix is to see how many people carry their old points parts in the glovebox with them - "just in case".

The Pertronix 1 can burn up just by leaving the ignition on without the engine running, and it doesn't take but a couple minutes.
 

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What's a cost effective new Duraspark distributor with gear for a roller cam?
 

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What's a cost effective new Duraspark distributor with gear for a roller cam?

Get a 85 Mustang 5.0, 5 spd 4V, not the 85 Mustang 5.0 with automatic and CFI. The distributor is a very nicely made Spectra unit for about $50. I didn't think of looking at Rockauto first instead I bought the same one from AutoZone for about $70. Works very well
 

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Looks like this is the correct one?


Pardon my ignorance of the Duraspark ignition but that distributor says it has computer controlled advance. Is the little Duraspark box considered the computer? I didn't think it was that high tech. I thought the Duraspark advance was vacuum+mechanical as someone mentioned earlier about changing weights and springs.
 

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Their somewhat generic info is written incorrectly. You can see the vacuum advance canister pointing up in the air in the picture. Durasparks don't control the timing beyond retarding it a bit when cranking the engine IF you hook up the "white wire".
 

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The FD30 is the correct part. Rock has it for $20 less, pays to shop around.


The "good" Duraspark setup is the 78-79 302 California emissions red grommet unit with it's matching coil.

Box: More Information for STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS LX210
Coil: More Information for STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS FD477

You can rob a harness out of any Duraspark equipped car in the junkyards, or buy one of the conversion harnesses.


George Pence did an extensive writeup on the Duraspark units over at the Pantera forum.

 
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Pretty much all you need to know about Pertronix is to see how many people carry their old points parts in the glovebox with them - "just in case".

The Pertronix 1 can burn up just by leaving the ignition on without the engine running, and it doesn't take but a couple minutes.
I am one of the "just in case guys" ;)
However so far it works fine for me.
 

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The FD30 is the correct part. Rock has it for $20 less, pays to shop around
I found it on RockAuto first. Posted the Summit link because it has additional info. I actually can't get RockAuto anymore, they don't ship to Colorado. Some sales tax thing. But I also found it cheaper on Amazon and a few other places. CARiD and Autoplicity are usually OK alternatives to RockAuto. Summit will also price match anyone, though it annoys me that I have to go out of my way to force them to have the best prices.

So it sounds like all these replacement Duraspark distributors are going to have a pretty sluggish timing curve out of the box. Would you guys agree? Do you guys recurve them yourselves?
 
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