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Discussion Starter #1
I have never done a convertible top but I am willing to try. I am considering the job with the aid of a book. It looks like a pain but not impossible. Will it look like crap? Should I paint the car first or do the top first? How much should I expect to pay someone else to do it? Should I do it or not???? Thanks for any advice!
 

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I had mine done.... from the prices I got expect somewhere between $600 and $1000 depends on the top and wheather you go with glass or plastic.... after looking at a few books etc. I think I would probably try it myself next time. as far as painting goes... I did my top them removed the whole thing. But I've gutted the inside too..... I couldn't decide which way to go. had guys suggest both ways.... gutted no overspray... but risk scratching something when I put it back together? Or live with some overspray on stuff? guess I let you know in a couple of months?

Ken
99 GTP
97 Yukon
68 GT convert
 
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Discussion Starter #4
well, you should take into consideration that you might lose about $150 if you screw up. if you can live with this, then give it a shot.

before you begin installing the top, you need to make sure that the rear bow tacking strip is good and also the header bow tacking strip. and, check the bars that hold the top to the quarter panels

-once all that is good, you install the top pads. most people leave off the pad from the back bow to the rear quarter. you need to get a measurement on the back bow to the rear quarter, i think its something like 26.5". Also, it is best to have the boot trim installed on the car before you do the top.

-next, the rear curtain gets installed. start by tacking it to the back bow, don't use a lot of staples because you might be taking it back off. then, attach it to the rear tacking bar and bolt it in. you may need to use a blow dryer or heat gun to get the box wrinkles out of the plastic.

-once the rear window is in, throw the top on, put the wires through and get it centered on the car. most times the rear quarters will be marked and go ahead and staple the top on the guidelines. also, the front header usually is marked to so go ahead and put a few staples in that. next, glue the rear quarter to the top frame and then bolt up the rear tacking bars and latch the top to see how it looks. chances are that you'll have lots of wrinkles in the rear quarters, you just gotta pull staples out and retack to get it right. normally, you pull down where the wrinkle is and then gradually pull down about 6" to either side of the wrinkle to get it to 'flow' in.

-when you have the quarters looking good, nail everything down with a bunch of staples, including the top to the back bow.

-next, install the front windroll by stapling it to the header bow tacking strip.. right on top the top material. Install all the weatherstrip and the rear wire-on.

this is not really a job for the novice, but if you can afford to lose $150 trying, then go for it. I think it would be worth it to just pay a professional to do it and be done with it.

Charles Turner
MCA Gold Card Judge(64.5-65, 66)
'65 Fastback
'00 GT Conv, triple black


Check out my 65 [color:blue]fastback!</font color=blue>
 

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What the hell. I'm going to try to do mine. I figure the top is $150, and it will cost $600 - $1000 to have it done. So how many tops can I screw up and still come out ahead? Let's see, $600 divided by $150...anyway, just do it. And like Charles said, you can keep pulling staples until you get it right. Most of the pride we get from these cars is being able to say, "I did that."


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Discussion Starter #6
I found an old guy to do mine for $800.00. That is with the top! Experience is key on outward appearance. It looks great, and it is tight.
I say let me mess with the simpler things that won't look bad or get me wet.

1966 C-Code Convertible, 59 Edsel Villager
Charlotte, NC
New Cars Have No Soul.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
hmm, kinda doubt that. i've been hanging around an auto upholstery shop for 12 years now and never seen them disassemble a convertible top frame. besides, you lose lots of factory adjustment by disassembling a frame.

other than just installing a top, the shop may repair tacking strips or replace broken frame parts like latches. lubricating the frame is nothing more than just spraying some lubricant on the joints.


Charles Turner
MCA Gold Card Judge(64.5-65, 66)
'65 Fastback
'00 GT Conv, triple black


Check out my 65 [color:blue]fastback!</font color=blue>
 
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Thank you for all the response. Lets see- thats 3 for doing it yourself and 3 for paying an expert. Can someone break the tie? I do take pride in saying I did it myself but I don't want people to say "Yeah I can tell!"
 

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I got my top from JC Whitney. It came with extremely good instructions and the top when on the first time like a pro. I emphasize what Chas Turner said about insuring the tack strips ar good on the header bar and back bow. Mine was completely rotted and had to be fabricated. The factory used a tar-fiberboard material. They now sale a polymer replacement. I got mine from a local automotive upholstry shop. I did mine on a very cool spring day which made the rear window stiff, requiring a couple of blow dryers to get it soft enough for a good fit. I'd recommend doing the job in a warm garage or good sunny spot. Good luck

Tom Kubler, Long-time Mustang Enthusiast & San Antonio Mustang Club Founder
 
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