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I just got my 8 inch converter friday and Instead of having tabs with 4 studs welded to the back for bolting it up my new converter came with a complete steel ring welded to it. The ring has 4 threaded holes in it and I got a baggie with 4 hex ended screw in studs and 4 grade 8 bolts with nuts(but no washers). When I screw the grade 8 bolts in the threads quit just before the heads of the bolts bottom out.

If I use the grade 8 bolts should I use flat washers under the heads since the heads of the bolts won't bottom out?
If I use the studs should I weld them to the ring on the back side or would loctite do?
If I use the grade 8 bolts and nuts should I loctite(blue I would guess) the bolts when I screw them in?
I assume I will need to loctite blue the nuts when I bolt the converter to my flexplate?

If I can't figure this out today I will have to wait until monday to call the converter company so I'll loose the whole day sunday working on it.


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Well, I don't really have any experience with this at all, but I have a few possible observations. It sounds to me like the nuts provided are for use with the studs, not the bolts. I think you can either use the studs, and use the provided nuts to attach the converter to the flexplate, or you can use the bolts to attach the converter to the flexplate. I think if you used the bolts, they would go in instead of the studs, and you would put them through the flexplate into the converter, like when you would normally be putting nuts over the studs. Hopefully this makes some sense. In my mind, this sounds like exactly what should happen, but obviously, I'm not dealing with it hands-on like you are. As far as the Loctite, I think the plain old blue stuff should be fine, and personally, I think I would go with the bolts in lieu of the studs, as in my experience, the stud may come with the nut when you go to remove it in the future.


-Brian

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Discussion Starter #3
I've never seen one of these things before either and guess what. Absolutely no instructions were in the box. I found one little white sticker on the inside of the box that said to drill the flexplate holes to 7/16 and thats it.

This explains why the bolts are not threaded all the way up to the bolt heads. They have a very short shank for the thickness of the flexplate. I'm going to use the bolts with loctite blue because they just look a lot stronger to me than the screw in studs.

With this set up it looks a bit easier to get the bellhousing lined up with the block. That ring on the converter is a tight fit into the lip on the flex plate so it helps center it. I think I will have to be careful about the converter snout going into the back of the crank though. Although they seemed to get in the way the old welded on converter studs would assure that the converter lined up right. Without the studs to guide it in I suppose its possible for it to get out of whack. I think the fix for that is to start the converter bolts in once the bell housing is about an inch from the back of the block. That way the converter will be centered on the flexplate and that will center the converter snout into the crank as the 2 parts are brought together. Well I will find out anyway I guess.

Hey thanks for the help.


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Usually, the clearances are a bit tighter on aftermarket converters so fitting everything ahead of time is a good idea if possible...

I usually use a thin hardened washer under the bolt heads to spread out the loading on the flexplate and blue Loctite on the threads...

Just make sure that, after you get the bellhousing up against the engine, you can move the converter back and forth a 1/16-1/8" or so....don't want any binding .....

Of course, in the process of bringing the two items together, you should only have to apply hand pressure...you shouldn't have to tighten the bolts markedly to bring the bellhousing snug....

Pat
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