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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am converting my car to a manual brake setup for the track. I've already swapped a manual pedal in the car and removed the booster and master cylinder. Other than bolting the new master cylinder to the firewall, what else would I need? I'm going to use a late model aluminum one and run my own lines so, I'm not concerned about that. It just doesn't look right with just the master cylinder there.

Also, I'm planning on running this kit from Wilwood. 13" rotors with the Superlite Calipers.


Here's a shot of the firewall. That's a Modern Driveline Cable Clutch conversion plate for my T5 there to which I added long mounting studs to the pedal support for the master cylinder. It made it easier to mount the pedal support.



Also, what push-rod should I use? I was looking at the adjustable kit that Mustangs Plus sells.

https://www.mustangsplus.com/xcart/Adjustable-Pushrod-kit-for-power-boosters-and-Manual-Master-Cylinders.html

Any ideas or reassurance that I'm heading in the right direction would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

Bill
 

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Looks fine to me. The Mustang Plus adjustable push-rod is the
one I've got in my '68.
Make sure you select the right MC bore diameter......
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Looks fine to me. The Mustang Plus adjustable push-rod is the
one I've got in my '68.
Make sure you select the right MC bore diameter......

Thanks!. Guess I just needed some reassurance. Yeah, I'm actually going to try out a few different size master cylinders. From15/16th to 1 1/16 to see which one works the best for me. I've got some math to do so see what size pistons front and rear match up closest to stock and then base the master cylinder on that.

Bill
 

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Unless you have some unusually large piston bores, a 1" should suffice.
(and you really want to stay there- larger becomes a chore to push
in manual configuration) It's basically an inverse square situation-
slightly bigger bore = a really big increase in pedal force required.
 

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I run the standard Wilwood M/C on two of my cars with no issue and can fairly easily show 1200psi on the brake gauge which I was told is fairly ideal. Solid pedal with only moderate pedal movement. I wouldn't want any less pedal movement as it would hinder pedal modulation. Both of these cars run rear disc brakes.
 

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I am running a late model M/C with a 15/16" bore. However... I just got done doing a disc brake swap using Street or Track's 11.65" kit and have not yet got the car out to try it. I have Baer 13" on the front. For anyone interested on using SorT's kit, do it! It came with EVERYTHING that I needed. I thought it would take a lot longer than it did to install. No kidding, I had the job done in less the 3 hours, wheels off to wheels on.
 
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