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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I have a roller 302 in my 67. I am putting things back together. The distributor is interfering with the coolant temp sensor bung on the intake manifold. Pic below. Has anyone dealt with similar and what was the resolution? Other ideas? Thanks. Jj
798732
 

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What distributor is that ?
 

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Remove the distr cap, mark the rotor orientation on the distr casting with a marker, unbolt the distributor hold down at the block, remove the hold down, grab the distr and rotor as one unit, lift it straight up aprox 2 inch, the rotor is goin to turn in your hand and then free up - not a prob, turn the entire distr and rotor as one from a 12 o'clock position to a 2 o'clock position, push the distr back down, youll feel it drop and seat back in place as it was before, and the rotor should move back to its mark, if it doesn't, turn the distr slightly left or right and it should drop. Make sure the rotor orients back to your mark, at this point you can turn the distr casting and the rotor will not move, to align with your mark. Find someone with a timing light, and lock down the distr at the correct setting.
 

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That's one of the China special Australian Bosch copies that are sold by junk merchants like A Team Performance, among a zillion others on Amazon and eBay. They're about $50 for a ready to run unit. I picked up one of those a couple years ago out of curiosity and not only was it complete garbage, it arrived with a broken shaft.

IF the gear is compatible with the roller cam, then your only real option is to either run a water outlet or heater nipple with a bung for a temp sender.
 

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67 Fastback T5 331 TCI Frt End, Canted 4 link rear susp
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I agree, the bigger concern is if the distributor gear is correct for the roller cam.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Thanks all. I picked the motor up from a local guy who rebuilds turbos.

sounds like I need to swap it out For safety’s sake. What would you recommend? I like the small cap. Thanks!
 

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Thanks all. I picked the motor up from a local guy who rebuilds turbos.

sounds like I need to swap it out For safety’s sake. What would you recommend? I like the small cap. Thanks!
Get a distributor made by Ford. Look up your application, i.e. roller cam, carb, fuel injection, flat cam, points, Dura-Spark, Thick Film Ignition, by the year these features were available, in RockAuto, and order one up. I see what maybe a Performer intake in your picture. A picture says a lot, but not everything. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok, the plot thickens, err…sickens.

the distributor is supposed to have a steel gear. Will check myself but the seller on eBay says steel.

Now, this is where it is really odd. i think the builder put the distributor 180 degrees off, then wired to current distributor location. here is a picture of my motor and distributor. You can see that number one wire is on the lower left. I validated number one and TDC by pulling the plug, turning the motor and validated the compression stroke on number one.

799010


The motor runs.

I used the google machine and came across multiple pictures showing number one at the the back of the distributor. See google machine search picture I snagged.

799012


I think this explains why I have interference with the temp sensor port per my original question but need some smarter folks to validate or steer me in a different direction🙃

if I am correct, seems like I need to pull the distributor, turn 180 degrees, ensuring the rotor is on the correct number one with the motor at TDC…thanks!, Jeff
 

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#1 can be anywhere as long as you properly align with a cap terminal and get the correct ignition advance, and plug wires in the right order. To properly find # 1, pull your valve cover and look at the lifter position. Either, BACKUP the crank up to tdc on the damper once you see the exhaust valve start to open...or...move the crank FORWARD to tdc once the intake valve closes. Both will work. Mark that rotor position on your dizzy with a marker. Thats #1, wire in rotation from there. You can literally rotate that dizzy in any position you want; as long as you know when #1 is at tdc, and identify rotor position and cap terminal for #1. I hate theses pictures that say #1 is here, or there, that's complete BS!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
thanks groho...very helpful. i was thinking the same but need to free up the issue with my temp sensor, so will need to move the dizzy...i can clock it to where i need give your info...thanks!
 

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I'd cut my losses at this point and get a real distributor with a real gear that you know what it is made of. You could end up spending a thousand dollars if things go wrong to save a hundred. When everybody thinks something is wrong........
 

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thanks groho...very helpful. i was thinking the same but need to free up the issue with my temp sensor, so will need to move the dizzy...i can clock it to where i need give your info...thanks!
With that goofy thing hanging out the side of your distributor and the vacuum can on the front (where it is supposed to be) you can`t move the housing enough to do what you think you want to do.
 

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Are you adding another sender? It appears that you already have one temp sender wired into the intake at the thermostat housing?
 

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First, I don't know who built your motor - but in your first image, I'd definitely remove those valve cover bolts and get some correct bolts on there. You can clearly see from the image that the valve cover hole is almost just as large as the washer covering it. I see leaks in your future because with engine vibrations, it's going to allow the valve covers to gradually move.

He's also using the same style bolts (with washers??) across your lower intake (why).

Do yourself a favor and definitely get some ARP bolts for those areas and go around the rest of the engine to ensure there's nothing else weird going on.

Is he a "turbo builder" as in specializes with Euro/Asian cars or knows domestic engines like Ford? Not bashing but from what is seen in the images - I wouldn't be happy and lends to question other things.

I would also confirm there's roller rockers under those valve covers seeing/reading what you're up against...

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As others are mentioning, it is extremely pertinent that whatever dizzy you are installing has the correct gear that will be compatible with the cam... if it's the wrong gear it can be shredded and cause further internal problems or damages. It's VERY important that you're using the correct dizzy gear aside from X-dizzy you're going to use.

Do you know or were you told which roller cam is installed? That will help determine proper dizzy gear (material).
 

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The thermostat housings are available with a threaded hole on top for mounting an aditional temp sensor. The sensor for my temp gauge are mounted like that, works perfect.
 

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And ditch that glass fuel filter on your fuel line to the carburetor. You are one good bump away from that hitting the water pump/front cover, shattering the glass and having fuel pumped all over the front of the engine and onto the distributor.
 

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thanks groho...very helpful. i was thinking the same but need to free up the issue with my temp sensor, so will need to move the dizzy...i can clock it to where i need give your info...thanks!
Moving the location of #1 in the cap isn't going to solve your problem as you don't have room to move the distributor any further clockwise without the vacuum advance bottoming out on the thermostat housing. Moving it counter-clockwise is going to make your temp sender issue worse.

Without scrapping your distributor for something like a Duraspark (one for an '85 5.0HO will have a steel gear) I'd move the coolant sensor to the heater outlet location and move what appears to be your fan sensor to a thermostat housing with a bung.

Oh, yeah.... like LeeFred says... ditch the "firestarter" fuel filter and the rubber hose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
This is such a great site….thanks for the advice. The builder is a Ford guy…does all turbos but builds engines too…that said, these are all great points and gives me much to think and fix. I bought the set up from the builder, generally trust him, but with a bit more time and seeing your thoughts, would have gone a different route. thanks….really appreciate the feedback for sure!,,
 
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