[Guest]

Okay, I've been narrowing this problem down since I purchased the car. It is getting better, but it is still there.

When driving the car from 0-40 MPH the car stays very cool, gauge usually is below 1/4 of the gauge, just above cold. As I start to speed up the temp rises until it is about 3/4 of the way up (just below HOT). This seems to happen regardless of the outside temp.

So far this is what I've done:

1)Replaced thermostat with 180 (original was 196 that was stuck half open)
2) New 6 bladed fan
3) Fan Shroud
4) Water flush of cooling system (not just radiator)
5) Chemical flush of cooling system

Where should I look next? When I drain my radiator, it seems to drain very quickly so I do not suspect a clog there. I guess the water pump is next on my list. Does that make since. Is there anything else I should look at?

I have 2 weeks to solve the problem before it hits the highway for a 300 mile road trip to my wedding and I would like for it not to run hot on the way down there.

Thanks.

Slade

 

[Guest]

Well...just after I finished this post, I saw the post from a few days ago that was the same problem...I'll do those checks...after I replace my waterpump, I'll do the radiator too. Oh the joy...So much money...so little income...

Cooling issues basically seem like a crap shoot and that I should just resign myself to rebuilding my entire cooling system. Oh well...I've done this much...maybe I should relent and go with a 3 row radiator since I have to remove my old one again anyways.

Slade

 

[sparky]

Have you verified the temp with a mechanical gauge?
A 3 row radiator would be a good upgrade anyhow.
G/L.

 

[6T6]

Check your vacuum advance. My '66 coupe had the exact same symptoms as you describe. After much trial and error and $$$, it turned out to be way too much advance. Some of the units take an allen wrench to adjust it, and I have seen others that use small washers to limit the total advance.

 

[66stangFb]

Not sure what was in the "previous" post, but, the lower hose should have a wire in it to keep it from being sucked flat when the motor is at speed. If you have not checked this lower hose for the presence of the wiire, this is what I'd do first.

Good Luck,

 

[Guest]

I've checked my timing. My initial timing was around 4* BTDC and changed that to 10-12* BTDC (even though I have a manual tranny). I checked my 2000 RPM advance which should be 30 BTDC and I'm at 35* BTDC. I'm not too off. I'm still checking for vacuum leaks. At 2000 RPM I'm at 16-19 psi.

 

[msgjvh]

Get the 4 row from Sacramento Mustang. It will cost you $199 but it will keep the car running cool!

 

[kketell]

Do check the lower radiator hose for presence of wire before you go spending a bunch of $$$.

The other thing you can do is take out the anti-freeze and replace with water and either Water-Wetter or Purple Ice. The liklihood of freezing over this time of year is pretty close to nil.

Anti-freeze is a terrible heat-transfer agent...

Of course, you would put back anti-freeze for those frozen parts of the world as needed.

 

[Mark156701]

180 isnt original do not go aftermarket thermos! go get a ford 192

 

[kketell]

Why are you tellin me? /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

Which car are we talking about here? A vintage pony does not run a 192-degree t-stat... The vintage cars like to run cooler. I run a 160 in mine and it runs around all day long under 192-degrees, unless it's really hot and I'm working the engine hard.

 

[dickson]

My car had some similar symptoms - ran OK cool at lower speeds but overheated quickly on hwy.... I had a clogged radiator from my rebuilt engine.

Replaced the radiator with a 4 row and all seems OK.

Depending on how original your car is, you might also consider putting in the larger 67/68 radiator - but for that to really work you need to widen the radiator opening in your support. IIRC that option is discussed on "mustangsteve"'s site. Dickson

 

[ken_schall]

If your running a 6 blade fan...I'm assuming its a flex fan? Since your problem accures as you speed up..... try putting the "stock" fan back on once or at least drop to 5 blade less flex... the flex fan has probably stopped drawing air at 40 mph....and your running boarder line with a 2 row radiator. The stock "steel" fan was meant to run with the 2 row and will continue to draw air at speed. With a flex fan you'll need more radiator.....

 

[Midlife]

Kent: the original spec for the Mustang thermostat was/is 192*.

 

[kketell]

Really? I'll have to check my books.

In HI we didn't even run the darn things.

 

[Mark156701]

thank you midlife fianlly someone on my side

 

[Midlife]

In HI, there's a lot of things not done according to specifications!!!

The Ford sales brochures for 65/66 289's state 190* thermostats. The Ford Shop Manual mentions a low temp and a high temp thermostat: the latter opeings between 188 and 195*, and is fully open at 210-212*.

Most folks use the 180* thermostats, simply because the 190* thermostats are hard to find.

 

[kketell]

You makin fun of the place where I growed up, boy?

I humbly beg the boards forgiveness for my ignorant statements earlier in this thread.

I shall look into chaning my t-stat at my earliers convenience.

It'll be really strange to see the temp guage that high all the time though.

 

[Midlife]

I'd never make fun of Paradise! Can you image houses with no heaters or A/C? Heater delete standard equipment on cars? The only flaw in HI is the lack of decent potato chips. Anyone up for living in paradise? Anytime, anytime.

Now, if only I could spell or pronounce those dang street names!

Don't bother changing your thermostat. It's not worth the effort.