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While I wait endlessly for the paint/body to be finished, I've been assembling engine, trans and various other items so they are ready to drop in when the car is returned.

My 289, code C5AE-6015E 6C16 was not originally a Hi-PO, but I recently bought a set of Hi-PO manifolds for it. I'm keeping the original 3-speed manual it came with, but hear the standard Z-bar won't work with these manifolds.

Am I good buying the Hi-PO Z-bar https://www.cjponyparts.com/clutch-equalizer-bar-hi-po-6-bolt-1965-1966/p/CEB3/ , installing and going about my day or are there other items I'll need? It was a complete car so I have every piece of linkage down to springs still.

Thx!
 

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While I wait endlessly for the paint/body to be finished, I've been assembling engine, trans and various other items so they are ready to drop in when the car is returned.

My 289, code C5AE-6015E 6C16 was not originally a Hi-PO, but I recently bought a set of Hi-PO manifolds for it. I'm keeping the original 3-speed manual it came with, but hear the standard Z-bar won't work with these manifolds.

Am I good buying the Hi-PO Z-bar https://www.cjponyparts.com/clutch-equalizer-bar-hi-po-6-bolt-1965-1966/p/CEB3/ , installing and going about my day or are there other items I'll need? It was a complete car so I have every piece of linkage down to springs still.

Thx!
You should be good, as long as, you get all of the ancillary parts that support that Hi PO bar. Am assuming our current config is a manual shift, as well.
 

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Yes, current/factory setup was the 3-speed manual car came with. Was a running/driving car that was all factory parts, which I still have. If all the additional hardware outside the Z-bar can be reused that would be great.
I think(?) the only difference in the Hi-Po vs the non Hi-Pos the curve in the arm to miss the manifold. I would expect all of the other parts would be fine, if in good working order. Since I did a an auto to manual change, those little bits were chump change.
 

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The engine-mounted pivot was unique to the 289HP. The hex portion ends up inside the tube, unlike the standard equalizer. This allows the lower arm to tuck very close to the engine block to clear the exhaust pipe, which goes below the tube rather than above as on the standard exhaust. The pivot is widely available in repro.
 

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Question... if one was putting HIPO manifolds on a 1968 stang with a 302 engine, would the '65-'66 HIPO Z-Bar work? If not, what would be the solution?
 

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For the '68, you'd have to get the 67 style K code Z bar, not repro'd since there were so few originally made. Ford probably only made a 1 or 2 thousand when new is my guess. How many 4 speed K codes and GT350's were there in '67? Not a lot. Rather than much around trying to alter something to fit, it's just easier to put a set of headers on it.
 

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For the '68, you'd have to get the 67 style K code Z bar, not repro'd since there were so few originally made. Ford probably only made a 1 or 2 thousand when new is my guess. How many 4 speed K codes and GT350's were there in '67? Not a lot. Rather than much around trying to alter something to fit, it's just easier to put a set of headers on it.
Thanks!
 

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On my 67 I just went thru this to install Hipo manifolds on my 302 For a 67 ( and 68 I'd think) to use hipo manifolds you need the hipo block side pivot. And I used a Boss 302 z bar from a 69-70. I used the 67 lower clutch rod. I have the upper heim joint rod from opentracker Believe it or not it works. It's really tight maybe a finger clearance. I bought all the parts from NPD except the z bar which I stumbled on a good one on EBay. The Boss z bar is about $175 repo though. Used a 2" hipo h-pipe.

found the info on the forum that this worked so I'm not the first to have done it.

Most of the 289 hipo 67s were Shelbys
 

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On my 67 I just went thru this to install Hipo manifolds on my 302 For a 67 ( and 68 I'd think) to use hipo manifolds you need the hipo block side pivot. And I used a Boss 302 z bar from a 69-70. I used the 67 lower clutch rod. I have the upper heim joint rod from opentracker Believe it or not it works. It's really tight maybe a finger clearance. I bought all the parts from NPD except the z bar which I stumbled on a good one on EBay. The Boss z bar is about $175 repo though. Used a 2" hipo h-pipe.

found the info on the forum that this worked so I'm not the first to have done it.

Most of the 289 hipo 67s were Shelbys
Thanks! Good info. Glad to know it's at least possible with off-the-shelf parts. I'll be sure to check the forum for more details if and when I make this mod.
 
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