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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone know any tricks/techniques for getting a protective coating (paint or anything else) inside the cowl vent? I tried reaching from under the dash (driver and passenger air ducts) but that isn't working too well.
 

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Eastwood has a rustproofing gun with a flexible wand that you may be able to insert through the air ducts.

Scott
 

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Its not even easy to say"cowl".... anotherwords theres nothing easy about the cowl area on a 68. My question is are you keeping the car? Is it just a driver and will be replaced? I'm beating around the bush but the bottom line is the only sure fix is to fix it right....I've heard of all kinds of time consuming ,cleaver ways guys have tried to either fix or seal and I think they spent more time and money than if they'd have just fixed them right in the 1st place.Sad to put a lot of time and money in a paint job and then have to tear it all up later to fix the cowl..... otherwise I've heard of guys pulling the fenders and just pouring anything from paint to tar through the outside screen till it runs out the vent holes. And that might work to just put a "seal" in there
 
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On the old forum, somebody had removed the fenders, cut a hand sized hole neatly in the end of one side and used that to address the cowl floor. Cleaned it and sealed it with fiberglass or POR15 or something like it. The welded the hand-hole closed. Im sure such a fix would take less time and money that the ultimate fix of cowl replacement. Still, a heckuva lotta work for uncertain returns.
 
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If you have any leakage at all, you will be doing the replacement plastic hats.

If you put in the replacement hats, you cut out the old hats and there is enough room to coat the inside of the cowls around the hat area. You need to cut the handle off a paint brush to get in there.

But if you don't cut out the hats, there isn't much room.
 
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Let me weigh in. I recently repaired the cowl using a cowl repair kit, which is a plastic hat looking device that you push through the chiminey from under the dash. I was intent on doing it right and spent 2 days working my arm up the friggin hole to scrape, an chisel old rust, and sealer from the factory. I used compressed air to blow out the area and then fashioned a brush with a curve to paint a rust converter/sealer on it. I then followed up with a quality sealer and applied a thick layer around the area. It took two days for my arm to heal, but it no longer leaks.

However... I just recently removed the left fender and had the opportunity to remove the drain plug and look at my fix job. What you imagine your hands and tools doing blind is not what happens in reality. Some rust remains which ultimately means all rust will return. I am convinced that the only good fix is cutting the sheet metal section on both sides to properly preserve the metal and replace any that needs it.
 
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