Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I just recently purched a 1964 ½ mustang, and have been reading about plugged & rusted cowl vent’s. Mine seams fine (no water on interior carpet, or rust), but I want to make sure it’s not plugged or rusted, what is the easiest and, or best way to check to make sure water will drain out of the cowl vent, without filling it with water???

Thanks

Lurch
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
911 Posts
I don't have a good answer for you, as I am not 100% sure. I figure if you stick the gardenhose in there and its not leaking into the inside of the car or onto the carpet, it must be draining out where it should be. I would assume you would see a puddle under the car on each side. I will tell you that if the cowl is in good repair or bad repair, I love the cowl cover I use. My car has a solid and repaired cowl. The way I see it, I have no desire to let water and dirty and junk get in there and ruin it again, so I always keep it covered. And it doesn;t effect my nice hot heat in the wintertime. Kory

Mustang Parts makes a great addiction.
 
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #3

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,365 Posts
I have a question for you. How can you check to see if the water drains out if you don't put water it??? I guess you could use milk. lol. Get a simple water picher and slowly pour water in the cowl area. You should see the water run out on either side on the inside rear part of the front fender. If the car slopes to one side the other will not drain.

Food for thought: Just think, If your weren't where you are you would be somewhere else.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,205 Posts
I keep mine covered too... It's better that way.
 
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
What most have probably already told you is to try the bucket-of-water/garden-hose-test first. And I agree that that is a simple but effective method.

Columbo's '66 coupe is at the paint shop right now. In preparation we took off every bolt-on piece which included the front wings (AE: fenders). Then the fairly large drain holes either side of the scuttle, sorry cowl, can be seen easily.
So when trying the garden-hose-test stand aside or you'll get wet feet (if the holes aren't blocked).

If you get wet feet in the interior then you have a problem. You have to open the cowl to reach the venting holes and their seals and the (rotten?) metal in that area.
The hard way is to open the scuttle by drilling through every single spot weld, which means taking out the windscreen.
The easy (well, realatively) way is to remove the fenders and grind open the both sides of the cowl so that you can reach inside.
 

·
Beach Bum
Joined
·
5,694 Posts
I'm in the process of replacing the complete cowl assembley on my 1965 2+2. I got a complete rustfree cowl from a doner car in california. The job is a big PITA, I DONT want to do that again. there are alot of spot welds you have to drill out. Next up the floors. :) :) :).
1965 2+2 resto in progress. Mike65.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top