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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

I return once again to the wealth of knowledge that is this forum. I have a 68 coupe that I’m planning on swapping a coyote in. Probably a Gen I or Gen II. But I have a few questions:

1.) Cooling- what radiator should i run with? The stock coyote (if itll even fit)? I currently have a champion 3 core aluminum rad that keeps my 351 to about 185 even on hot AZ days. Any other brands that are recommended?

2.) Transmission- Ive taken a look at a lot of aftermarket and the stock MT-82 tranny that comes with the coyote. Ive spoken to a few companies and some say that the TKO would and some say I wouldn’t have to modify the trans tunnel for fitment. Even MDL who sells a “low top conversion” for the TKO says it still wouldn’t fit. Ive only heard that the MT-82 will HAVE to modify the tunnel. As far as that goes, would it be worth the few extra grand for a TKO or a T56 Magnum? Or does the MT work just fine?

and finally, 3.) what gear ratio should I run in the diff? I’m thinking anywhere 3.50-3.70. I want to use this car as a daily and still want streetability, but also want to feel the G’s mashing the pedal.

Thanks all!
-Jaydon
 
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A lot of answers might depend upon what suspension setup you plan on running up front, keeping in mind that although the 68 has more room than the 65/66, it is still going to be tight and you will probably want to plan on some shock tower trimming.
Rear gear might depend upon to the transmission you go with. I am going with 3.50 gears for mine, and combined with a 2.97 first gear of a wide ratio T56, I should have some good low end launch. I did some math and I will end up with about the same low gearing as a close ratio with 3.89 gears.
I drove a 66 with Coyote Aluminator, wide ratio T56 and 3.25 gears and it had nice low end.
I will be interested in following your build.
 

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Give Mustangs to fear a call. They can advise you, as I think this is a common swap for them.
 

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I'm running a bbf radiator 2 row in my 67 coyote swap car, works perfect. you want the top hose on passenger side, bottom on driver.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
A lot of answers might depend upon what suspension setup you plan on running up front, keeping in mind that although the 68 has more room than the 65/66, it is still going to be tight and you will probably want to plan on some shock tower trimming.
I plan on doing a whole shock tower delete and either do a heidts or some other style mustang II IFS. I’m pretty sure you can’t quite fit the coyote in the 68 bay, though somewhere i thought Ive seen someone do it in a 69 without trimming the towers.

Give Mustangs to fear a call. They can advise you, as I think this is a common swap for them.
Good idea! totally forgot them for a second.

I'm running a bbf radiator 2 row in my 67 coyote swap car, works perfect. you want the top hose on passenger side, bottom on driver.
Good info for me thanks! Might I ask why a 2 row? arent 3 rows supposed to offer more cooling or is that a myth?

Thanks to all replying!
 

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65 Fastback 289 4 spd, 65 convertible 5.0L 5 spd. 3.73 8.8
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Hey all,

I return once again to the wealth of knowledge that is this forum. I have a 68 coupe that I’m planning on swapping a coyote in. Probably a Gen I or Gen II. But I have a few questions:

1.) Cooling- what radiator should i run with? The stock coyote (if itll even fit)? I currently have a champion 3 core aluminum rad that keeps my 351 to about 185 even on hot AZ days. Any other brands that are recommended?

2.) Transmission- Ive taken a look at a lot of aftermarket and the stock MT-82 tranny that comes with the coyote. Ive spoken to a few companies and some say that the TKO would and some say I wouldn’t have to modify the trans tunnel for fitment. Even MDL who sells a “low top conversion” for the TKO says it still wouldn’t fit. Ive only heard that the MT-82 will HAVE to modify the tunnel. As far as that goes, would it be worth the few extra grand for a TKO or a T56 Magnum? Or does the MT work just fine?

and finally, 3.) what gear ratio should I run in the diff? I’m thinking anywhere 3.50-3.70. I want to use this car as a daily and still want streetability, but also want to feel the G’s mashing the pedal.

Thanks all!
-Jaydon
My 65 has a Fox 5.0L with the 5 spd. and 3.73 rears, rear tires are 245-60-14 which I think are 26.5" tall. going down the road at 55 MPH I turn 1600 rpm. I would not want to go any lower as first gear would be worthless.
 

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2 rows with 1" rows are better than 3 rows with smaller rows. Also you can keep the shock towers if you want, but need to run AJE front suspension kember. I'm using their kember and a-arms then foxbody & sn95 parts.

744415
 

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You can use a 2011-14 mustang radiator however you will need to notch the driver side frame rail to allow it to drop down to the correct height. I am using a 2012 Mishimoto dual row aluminum radiator and a factory 2012 GT500 dual speed fan. Beware this combo takes up a lot of space, but will fit. (see pic)

As others have said, most of what you are asking will depend on the front suspension kit you choose. Mustangs To Fear claims that a T56 will fit with no tunnel mods. I run their front suspension in my 70, however I decided to run a built T5 to eliminate any and all clearance issues.

I run a 3.91 rear gear with the .59 5th gear ratio and with a 26" tall tire I run down the highway at 75mph at 2500rpm. Last I checked I am getting 20+mpg on the freeway.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
2 rows with 1" rows are better than 3 rows with smaller rows. Also you can keep the shock towers if you want, but need to run AJE front suspension kember. I'm using their kember and a-arms then foxbody & sn95 parts.

View attachment 744415
any real reason to keep the shock towers? would it cut cost?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Mustangs To Fear claims that a T56 will fit with no tunnel mods. I run their front suspension in my 70, however I decided to run a built T5 to eliminate any and all clearance issues.
I believe Modern Driveline told me a TKO or a T56 wouldn’t fit without tunnel mods but I’m not sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I run a 3.91 rear gear with the .59 5th gear ratio and with a 26" tall tire I run down the highway at 75mph at 2500rpm. Last I checked I am getting 20+mpg on the freeway.
Okay so running a higher that 3.70 wouldn’t kill me on the freeway? Awesome
 

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any real reason to keep the shock towers? would it cut cost?
makes your life harder, lol. The AJE setup was cheaper than all the other M2 type setups out there, but after doing all the upgrades I did, not sure if its that much cheaper. I had a bunch of foxbody/sn95 parts already so that was also a deciding factor. Another thing i originally was going with a sbf and wanted to use AJE setup because it was a cheaper way to get R&P steering, but then half way through the build i switched to a coyote setup and luckily trimmed enough off the towers to fit it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
makes your life harder, lol. The AJE setup was cheaper than all the other M2 type setups out there, but after doing all the upgrades I did, not sure if its that much cheaper. I had a bunch of foxbody/sn95 parts already so that was also a deciding factor. Another thing i originally was going with a sbf and wanted to use AJE setup because it was a cheaper way to get R&P steering, but then half way through the build i switched to a coyote setup and luckily trimmed enough off the towers to fit it.
I guess that means I’m going with the complete M2 front end if it’s negligible. would rather have the complete shock tower delete
 

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Removing the shock towers is more aesthetically pleasing for sure IMO, though you will need to add some frame rail strength back in. MTF has this covered with its front frame rail supports. (see pic)

As for the choice of transmission, I would call MTF and speak with them as they note that their front end places the engine slightly lower than other MII IFS kits. This was the main reason I was able to use the shaker scoop. I know TCI places the engine way up high and their is no way it would have fit with that kit. MTF has also make numerous improvements to their kit even since I bought mine 2 years ago. Their customer service is top notch!
 

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Regarding a radiator, it depends a lot on the company you use for the Coyote swap chassis mods. I found that the steering rack location with my Total Control Products front clip did not allow room for a oil filter. I went with the filter relocation kit from Ford Performance and a remote filter together with a C&R radiator to provide a integral oil cooler. BTW, the C&R radiator also has a built in PS cooler as well. This radiator was designed to support up to 1000 HP, so if I desired to SC the engine, the cooling system would support it.
The MT-82 is not recommended as the shifter is mounted to the tunnel. Most of the Cobra replica guys go with a TKO or TKO-600. Again, depending on the subframe solution you use, a T-56 may or may not fit. In my case I carried over the 6R80 from my donor GT and significant tunnel mods were required.
There are a lot of Coyote swap solutions out there now, I suggest you do your research and compare the different solutions out there. The vendor you chose will have a direct relationship to the overall cost of your swap.
Lots of changes were made to the Coyote in Gen2 vs Gen1, much of which came from the Boss 302 engine from 2012/2013. There should be good donors available at the salvage yards. I would recommend you concentrate on finding a Gen2 engine.

Good luck, when you get going on your build create a build page so we can follow along. There is a small group of us doing coyote swaps here, so we can likely help when needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
MTF and speak with them as they note that their front end places the enjoy slightly lower than other MII IFS kits. This was the main reason I was able to use the shaker scoop. I know TCI places the engine way up high and their is no way it would have fit with that kit. MTF has also make numerous improvements to their kit even since I bought mine 2 years ago.
Oh good to know! I was questioning the real differences between something like the Speedway M2 IFS and the MTF version. Has anyone had luck with the Speedway product? Since the price difference is about half, Just wondering. I’m having someone else do the fabrication for me, with a solid quote so I’m not necessarily too worried about ease of installing TOO much.
Regarding a radiator, it depends a lot on the company you use for the Coyote swap chassis mods. I found that the steering rack location with my Total Control Products front clip did not allow room for a oil filter. I went with the filter relocation kit from Ford Performance and a remote filter together with a C&R radiator to provide a integral oil cooler. BTW, the C&R radiator also has a built in PS cooler as well. This radiator was designed to support up to 1000 HP, so if I desired to SC the engine, the cooling system would support it.
The MT-82 is not recommended as the shifter is mounted to the tunnel. Most of the Cobra replica guys go with a TKO or TKO-600. Again, depending on the subframe solution you use, a T-56 may or may not fit. In my case I carried over the 6R80 from my donor GT and significant tunnel mods were required.
There are a lot of Coyote swap solutions out there now, I suggest you do your research and compare the different solutions out there. The vendor you chose will have a direct relationship to the overall cost of your swap.
Lots of changes were made to the Coyote in Gen2 vs Gen1, much of which came from the Boss 302 engine from 2012/2013. There should be good donors available at the salvage yards. I would recommend you concentrate on finding a Gen2 engine.

Good luck, when you get going on your build create a build page so we can follow along. There is a small group of us doing coyote swaps here, so we can likely help when needed.
I’ve seen C&R radiators before too, but I don’t necessarily see myself doing any mods on the motor anytime soon. I’m young at 18 so I’ll have plenty of time in the future if I’d want to, and the swap already is bleeding my wallet dry lol! Why would someone choose a 5 speed over a 6 speed or Vice Versa? Just curious?
 

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As we all know these Coyote swap projects can run away fast and create a substantial bill at the end. Here is one instance where a little ingenuity and fab skill can save you a ton of money. The C & R radiator mentioned above costs roughly $1500 with fans. By notching the frame slightly I was able to run the dual row aluminum radiator and GT500 fan setup for less than $400. Another is the engine...by going F150 engine vs Mustang you can save ~$3-4k. Just a couple examples of how you can save some big money when planning out your project.

Also look for Ebay 15% off coupons. (y)
 

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Why would someone choose a 5 speed over a 6 speed or Vice Versa? Just curious?
Mainly for size reasons. A T56 is significantly larger/longer than my T5. I have run a T56 in another car and loved it, as I love my current T5 as well. I have heard the TKOs are not very nice shifting transmissions so maybe do a little research there if looking that direction.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
As we all know these Coyote swap projects can run away fast and create a substantial bill at the end. Here is one instance where a little ingenuity and fab skill can save you a ton of money. The C & R radiator mentioned above costs roughly $1500 with fans. By notching the frame slightly I was able to run the dual row aluminum radiator and GT500 fan setup for less than $400. Another is the engine...by going F150 engine vs Mustang you can save ~$3-4k. Just a couple examples of how you can save some big money when planning out your project.

Also look for Ebay 15% off coupons. (y)
The radiator for sure is a good tip as well as the Ebay discounts, but isnt the F-150 Less powerful than the Mustang due to different cams? or other parts? I don’t necessarily want to sacrifice power, but if a good tune makes the two indistinguishable than thatd be really really good to know
 

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The radiator for sure is a good tip as well as the Ebay discounts, but isnt the F-150 Less powerful than the Mustang due to different cams? or other parts? I don’t necessarily want to sacrifice power, but if a good tune makes the two indistinguishable than thatd be really really good to know
Yes, however after a tune you would hardly claim its down on power. I dont have dyno numbers to prove anything yet but from what I have read and been told, a tuned F150 coyote should be in the 400-420hp range depending on exhaust and other bolt ons. Now if you were to put the Mustang intake cams in for more RPM, then you could obviously make more top end HP. The compression is slightly lower 10.5:1, which is negligible. Other than that they are identical engines. Oh and dont be fooled, the intake manifolds are exactly the same so dont waste money swapping to the Mustang version should you choose this route.
 
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